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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I decided to make a thread documenting my build journey. It started with a 94 dx hatch I picked up for $800. Stock d15 and awesome blue interior.



First thing to go was the stock suspension. Swapped in Some KYB shocks and Ground Control Coilovers that I got from a member here. Then came swapping the from fenders, hood, bumper and interior from an ex so no more blue interior. I painted all the plastics black with vinyl paint. Also picked up so Buddy Club rims


I picked up a Z6 long block and did an OEM rebuild. And just in time because I cracked a cylinder in the D15.
Picked up a Moates Ostrich, Hulog and Innovative Wideband and chipped my P28 ECU


Taught myself some basic tuning before I got my turbo setup. Then I switched from the Moates setup to Hondata ver 2.

So on to the turbo stuff. The parts so far

Z6 block with 8.8:1 Wiseco pistons and eagle rods bored .20 over. Thanks to a fellow member.





 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Head being torn down for the machine shop


Greddy Intercooler



3in down pipe with Vband


Z6 intake manifold cleaned and painted with AEM fuel rail, AEM FPR, Marshall fuel pressure gauge and RC 750's


Mocking things up. Gonna be a tight fit for the intake tube. Still need to shave some of the webbing on the block that's hitting the turbo.




Other stuff I've gathered.
Energy Suspension mount inserts and shifter bushings
Go-Autoworks vacuum manifold
ARP head studs
GM 3 Bar MAP sensor
Catch can I got for free
Bosch boost gauge
Fast-Turbo oil T and feed line
Megan Racing short shifter
6-puck XTD clutch. Yes I know it's junk. It was free and brand new so there's really nothing to lose. Aside from the time to swap it out later,
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Finally time for boost. The goal was to start on a Friday at 4 and be done by Sunday night so I could drive to work on Monday morning. Oh yeah it's my daily.

Out with the old


Started pulling the engine at 5:00 on Friday and finished up the night around 1:30 am. I didn't take a lot a pictures because well everyone has seen a d-series being pulled and put back in.


Nothing too interesting. Had to cut some webbing out of the block. Plumbed the oil feed and put in the torque mount inserts.

Day 2:
Snapped the ECT sending unit off in the head. Had to drill it out and retap it.
Down Pipe wouldn't clear the drivers side torque mount bracket so that had to come off and be cut up.
Half assed several other things due to being exhausted and decided to quit for the night.
Everything was in and ready to go though.


Intercooler mounted with zip ties until brackets are made.


Day 3:
Went over everything we did the night before and fixed the half assed stuff.
Did the first start up and poof nothing. It would turn over and fire but wouldn't catch.
Found the starter wires were tightened down and I had the spark plug wires on the dizzy wrong.
Fixed all of that and it fired right up........ and then spewed oil everywhere from the feed line on the back of the block.
Took the T fitting off and decided to use the sandwich adapter and quickly found that the threads for the oil filter didn't stick out far enough to put the oil filter on.
Took the oil T apart and re wrapped everything with pipe dope and RTV.
Put that back on and it still spewed oil. Turns out the oil feed line is leaking at the connector so pretty much at a stand still until I can get a new oil feed line.

I now completely understand why people set aside a week to do this kind of project.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
went and bought another oil line. Had to get -4an because that's all they had and the adapters. So I've now spent $184 on oil feed and drain.

fires it up and it's alive!! Drove it around a little bit to get a decent basemap for the breaking in.

I'm still running the stock MAP sensor and open down pipe so things are a little wonkey but it's running decent and makes cool sounds.

I'm gonna finish the exhaust today and put the bumper on. Can't wait to hook up the det can and get the ignition right and see what it actually feels like





I connected the exhaust to the downpipe to the new 2.5 in exhaust with some header reducers and some flex pipe for now. It's so quiet now.

Did some tuning on the fuel map. I've got it decently close. Still running the stock MAP sensor for right now so I'm not going above 10lbs for now.




Megalog Scatter plot
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Detcan I made

All of the parts were ordered from Jaycar. Kind of sucks the shipping cost more than the parts. The only parts that arent on there are a piezo and the 1/4 in headphone jack which I already had from building guitars. All together under $40 to build and pretty easy as long as you can solder.
part list


All of the parts laid out


Everything soldered to the board. The kit comes with instructions. The only two changes are soldering a jumper instead of the 1k resistor and soldering a POT instead of VR1.



Soldering the piezo




Drill some holes in the box and attach the components. I used hot glue for the circuit board and battery holder




I haven't had a chance to use it on an engine yet but it will defiantly work. I still need to decide if I want to use a battery clip or a eye clip to attach it to the engine.
I will most likely use an aux cord and run it through audacity on my laptop that way I can record it. I'll use my phone to dictate also.

If anyone has any questions feel free to message me
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Picked up some new parts.

I swapped out the Mega Racing short shifter for a Skunk2 Dual Bend I got for $40. Sooooo much nicer.

I bought up a MAC solenoid for $35. Pretty excited to put that in.



Also picked up some seats for $100


The engine is about to hit 500 miles. Next step is to hit the dyno. Kinda gave up on trying to tune the ignition on my own.
 

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D-series SoCal Division
93' dx hatchback
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Looking good bro, keep up the good work!

If your running the stock Greddy exhaust manifold, I highly suggest you get a different one (T25 flange and not to get confused with the DSM turbos). Its very restrictive and chokes at higher RPM 5000+.

It's a Garrett 18g
Sorry to say but your wrong. That's a Mitsubishi 18G turbo that comes from the B series turbo kits.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You are correct. It's a greddy 18g. I don't know why I typed greddy. I'm not sure what manifold it is. The manifold shifts the turbo towards the passenger side which is annoying because there's really no way to attach a filter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So I originally bought a GM 3 bar MAP sensor from ebay. bad choice because I have no data sheet to calculate the offset in Hondata.

I can get it to the point that it's only off by .5-1 psi but it idles too lean and causes a misfire.

I bought another map sensor in the DIY spirit from https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/MPXH6300AC6U/MPXH6300AC6U-ND/951827
but alas it was tiny and I ended up breaking one of the legs off while trying to solder it.

So now I need another new MAP sensor.

either $100 for an Omni or Hondata one or
$40 for a 2.5 bar Motorola from Xenocron

Anyone have experience with the Motorola one?
 

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I had an Omni 4 bar on my old boosted hatch, loved it. All needed offset info is already in Hondata in the little click down tab thing IIRC.
 

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I now completely understand why people set aside a week to do this kind of project.
:3dbiggrin:

I projected it was going to take me 3 weekends to pull a 318/904 from a 87 dodge and swap the motor/trans into a junker 97 ranger I have.

Currently on weekend #6 lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well I just hit 500 miles. Everything is still running great. No leaks or anything.

It pulls pretty strong which makes me excited to get it on a dyno
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Went to TRC Performance in Ruffs Dale PA. They were awesome guys and made the experience a lot of fun.

So at the end of the day the car made 225 hp and 210 TQ at 12 PSI

It was tuned at 15 PSI with the option to run that but it won't hold the 15 and tapers down to 12 PSI. They said that was about the max for the turbo.

Lucky for me my exhaust separated from the down pipe so I got to make the 2 hour drive home with an open down pipe. The car is a blast to drive. For boosting my first car and first turbo car the experience was awesome.



 
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