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Discussion Starter #1
I'm pretty stumped on getting this B**** out. Trying to replace the right rear upper control arm and the bushing is just spinning in the arm. Bolt is seized to the inner sleeve. The more I back out the bolt, it just pries the trailing arm apart even more. It's to the point that the welded on nut looks like it's about to break off. I've about had it with this crap. Anybody have any ideas? I'd like to leave the trailing arm on as with how one bolt is going, I'd rather not open a whole new can of worms. F***. I don't think burning out the bushing will accomplish anything, I believe there's a metal sleeve inside of it? Anyways, here's a pic:[URL=http://s966.photobucket.com/user/1985kx125rider/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140410_212340296.jpg.html][/URL]
 

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You have to cut the bolt. Cut/destroy the bushing, destroy the upper control arm, try not to further destroy the trailing arm. Whatever it takes - grinder, sawzall, torch if you're awesome.

If you have an old Honda from the rust belt, you should just expect every bushing with a bolt through it to have this problem. Even my Wagon from California had a couple stuck bolts in the rear lower control arms.

Beware, those bolts that hold the UCA to the body might be stubborn also. Don't want to break them. Heat and an impact works better than a breaker bar.
 

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Brings back painful memories.

Get a torch or a cutoff wheel.

Also, be careful removing the bolts by the chassis too. Those can also be a rusted pain.
 

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my Skateboard
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cut bolt head off. Cut threaded end off, leave enough lenght to grab with plyers to thread bolt rest of way out of welded on nut. replace upper control arm.
 

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1999 EJ8
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Mine is the same way, but I didn't go as far as you did.

I stopped when I saw that it was seized and pushing the arm apart.

Going to cut the bolt / bushing and replace the bolt. Already have a new upper arm ready to go in so that's not an issue.

The bolts are cheap from Honda.
 

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ej8
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Cut the bolt. And pb blaster it.
I hate dealing with old rusted bolts to many problems. I normally pb blaster it the day before I have to work on them.

Also you can try to heat it to break the rust and then unbolt it.

But as other side don't mess up the trailing arm. It cost more to fit that then the bushing or camber arm.
 

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duh
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yup, time to cut shit up.
Any way possible.
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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If you can remove the two bolt on the other end of the arm, I'd unbolt there and remove whole trailing arm just for ease or working on it.
 
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