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Hey Guys I herd something about you have to get your Block Notched To suit aftermarket Rods? Can Anyone explain to me what this means? and / or possibly give me some insight on the theory behind it and why it has or is to be done.

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its because the rods are too wide for the bore of our blocks, so you have to make "notches" to fit them. It's really easy to do and takes maybe 20 minutes with a dremel. Go to www.theoldone.com and check out how they did it
 

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Here's a picture..You can see the notched block..looks like --> \__/ in the bottom of the sleeve..

 

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90zcrx said:
its because the rods are too wide for the bore of our blocks, so you have to make "notches" to fit them. It's really easy to do and takes maybe 20 minutes with a dremel. Go to www.theoldone.com and check out how they did it
Is there anything to worry about when doing this yourself? How exact do you have to be?
 
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only eagle/scat rods need this. basically any "H" beam rod needs this. if you use crower rods you do not need to do this.
 
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why not? it's always fun to have extra metal in the bearings. doesn;t it make them last longer due to extra material?
;)
 

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90zcrx said:
its because the rods are too wide for the bore of our blocks, so you have to make "notches" to fit them. It's really easy to do and takes maybe 20 minutes with a dremel. Go to www.theoldone.com and check out how they did it
is it safe to dremel the block? and i couldnt find how they did it...is it under archives/toos_d16a_motor?
 

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hmmmm when i ordered my eagles there were 2 sets one were 520g and said block modifaction required and the ones i ordered were 510g and said "stock block" both had the new big bolts too.
 
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one has a 5/16" bolt and 1 has a 3/8" bolt. the otehrs are weaker and not recommended. get the 3/8" bolt and modify the block.
 

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take it to a machine shop and have them do it. it takes allot longer than 20 min to do it. i paid $30 to have mine done and it was worth every penny.
 

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You coudl also do it with a 3inch disk grinder/carbide cutter, then a dremel to smooth it down.


We mark an area that's 3/4" wide and approximately centered on each side of the block's cylinder bores. 3/4" is plenty of distance to clear the rods' beams ans we'll taper the cut from outside the lines back to the cylinder bores. If you put a mark that's 1/4" into the block and 1/4" down into the bores, that's the amount you'll be removing...effectively straight-lining the area with your grinder.

 

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oscarmayer said:
one has a 5/16" bolt and 1 has a 3/8" bolt. the otehrs are weaker and not recommended. get the 3/8" bolt and modify the block.
thanks totally forgot about that and was pissed that i ordered the 5/16 bolt but when they came today they indeed were the 3/8 bolt thank god.
 
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hehe yup big difference. I've seen the smaller rod bolts break at 400 hp. but the others i've sen hold 600+
 

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Knotch the block and crank girdle!
 
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