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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Looking at installing a block guard to reinforce the tops of my cylinder walls for my future turbo install. My question is this. When installing a block guard, does it have to be welded into place, or will it stay in place purely by the pressure from the tight tolerances?
 

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Civic turbo Hx/Ex
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There are 2 different types you can get; the one that doesn't need to be welded, and the types that do!

I have the one that doesn't need to be welded, but I never put it in!
I didn't put it in because I heard lots of bad things about block guards. I would defiantly think about it before you install this piece.

If you get the one that needs to be welded, it might be cheaper to just get High Performance Darton sleeves. I regret doing it, but will be doing it next winter.

How much boost are you looking to run?
 
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goldeneagle, nufomz, STR and most popular block quards don't need to be welded in place. just don't forget to hone you cylinders after you install it. the installation may distort them
 

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'91 CRX Si
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why not post the cylinders instead, thats what that exospeed dude did to his 25psi daily driven d16a6

to me posting seems like the right way to do it, it supports the cylinders in more places, and i hear many stories about block guards and overheating...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I don't like the way posting looks. Guess I would have to do more research on it, but putting pressure on those points along the cylinder wall woulc concern me. I have looked at the usual places regarding this. A few articles on Honda-Tech, of course the homemadeturbo.com article. Anyone have any good links of people who have posted they're blocks?
 

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I agree with silentwrath. Too many bad stories about the sleeves overheating with a blockguard in it. Causes bad things especially if you are going to be running up to 20lbs that is a lot! I have nothing and are running 10-15 daily. Just a suggestion...

I AM STILL KICKING MYSELF IN THE ASS FOR NOT SLEEVING MY SHIT! I WANT MORE BOOST…. :evil:
 

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civic4ges said:
Unless I can sleave myself (full machine shop access) there is no way im paying what I have saw for prices to have it done
i heard that, 700bones is alot
 
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as far as blockguards go (now I have never used one but I have done some research) for the blockgaurd to be effective it has to been installed properly, and this means being shaped (a lil custom work is require, no too parts are identicle in real life...) and tig welded into place (JB weld isn't a good choice here) this way it is actually a part of the engine now, its not gonna move, and its goin to transfer heat. After it has been welded in the engine will need to be machined ( a lil more then honing, to make sure that the bores are perfectly straight after pushing the blockgaurd in) and the head mating surface on the block will need a light decking aslo to make sure it is still straight. Now if anyone has installed a block guard properly I wanna know what you think, I wanna lean on my Nitrous sytem a lil harder next year and am currently weghing my options, if it comes to sleeving the block I think I'll just get outta the D-series world... thanx in advance for any advise.
 

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rexinre said:
I agree with silentwrath. Too many bad stories about the sleeves overheating with a blockguard in it. Causes bad things especially if you are going to be running up to 20lbs that is a lot! I have nothing and are running 10-15 daily. Just a suggestion...

I AM STILL KICKING MYSELF IN THE ASS FOR NOT SLEEVING MY SHIT! I WANT MORE BOOST…. :evil:
Yes blockguards cause the top of your sleeves to collect heat. Posting on the other hand actually helps with cooling, allowing the heat to transfer from the cylinder wall to the post to the block. Because there isn`t a ton of metal at the top of your sleeves you don`t kill the coolant flow like you would with a blockguard.
The best bet for heavy boost is getting resleeved: it costs money to go fast so why bother cheaping out on an important part.

http://www.homemadeturbo.com/tech_projects/block_posting/
 
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block posting is a more cost effective way to reinforce your block for boost, however many people do not feel confortable tapping the sides of thier blocks. But it's been done sine foreverand a day.
endyne posted one of thier race engines
www.theoldone.com
 

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B said:
as far as blockguards go (now I have never used one but I have done some research) for the blockgaurd to be effective it has to been installed properly, and this means being shaped (a lil custom work is require, no too parts are identicle in real life...) and tig welded into place (JB weld isn't a good choice here) this way it is actually a part of the engine now, its not gonna move, and its goin to transfer heat. After it has been welded in the engine will need to be machined ( a lil more then honing, to make sure that the bores are perfectly straight after pushing the blockgaurd in) and the head mating surface on the block will need a light decking aslo to make sure it is still straight. Now if anyone has installed a block guard properly I wanna know what you think, I wanna lean on my Nitrous sytem a lil harder next year and am currently weghing my options, if it comes to sleeving the block I think I'll just get outta the D-series world... thanx in advance for any advise.
That would be the only way I would ever run one AGAIN, if I ever trusted one again. Don't do it unless you are going to do it right. Head gaskets are easy to replace, but it sucks when you have to do it once a week. :evil: It took me the longest time to realize my problem was the blockguard. By then my cylinders had warped. :cry:
 
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