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Discussion Starter #1
ok so seeing as there is a group buy for the RC autoworks shift linkages i thought a updated DIY would be in order.

tools you will need:
hammer
BFH
7/16 tapered punch
1/4 pin punch
GLOVES
2 - 13mm sockets/wrenches


ok first off put the car up on ramps or jackstands. then climb your ass under there

i started off by pushing the dust boot on the linkage toward the front of the car. and pushing the silver clip pin off of the linkage to expose the bitch pin



then take your hammer, and 7/16 tapered punch and start wailing on the pin



WEAR GLOVES!!!



the punch will push the pin part way in, after that begin using your 1/4" pin punch to push the pin the rest of the way out WALA!



old on the left, new on the right.



RESULT:

 

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Discussion Starter #2
from here move on to the back portion of the linkage. get out your 13mm wrenches or sockets. i used one of each. just take the nut off and pull the bolt out and it should drop right off(maybe)




ALL DONE! UNBOLTED!

now just carefully pull the linkage towards the rear of the car

WARNING!!! if you have an oem converter with shield, be careful! i wound up cutting my hand open on the shield when the linkage finally came loose


this cut is actually A LOT deeper than it looks. and its only been 4 hours and its already infected. WEAR YOUR GLOVES!!!


once the linkage is out just reverse all of the steps you just did.

********when reinstalling the bitch pin, use the 7/16" punch and it should go right in :bigok::bigok:

good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
lol i just ran the car up on ramps and used the sledge hammer. still not a lot of room under there.

and yeah i got a new pin, but its shorter than the OEM pin. you can always reuse the old one. its hard as hell to get in/out. not like its gonna fall out while your drving
 

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i use the 12mm bolt you take off the other shift linkage and hammer that 12mm to take the bitch pin out lol.
its the fastest way for lazy people.
main thin is get a big hammer and lift the car high so you can swing it high, all technique
I do this EXACT thing lmfao!! BFH all the way!
 

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i save your ass when you wreck
94 hatchback cx
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6,693 Posts
dammit at all the rust! im so glad i dont live up north.. you need to fix the axle or seal thats leaking EVERYWHERE haha make it a cleaner job! but good write up.
 

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formerly allnaturalrex
1989 honda crx si
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i was using a bolt before i went to HF to buy a breaker bar when i saw a set of pin punches for 6.99 cant be beat. having the proper tool sometimes helps alleviate stress.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
dammit at all the rust! im so glad i dont live up north.. you need to fix the axle or seal thats leaking EVERYWHERE haha make it a cleaner job! but good write up.
yeah i know. thats why everything is so damn greasy underneath. ive got the clamp, i just cant get it on there
wow professional punch tools, I just use a bolt lol
lol ill wind up using the tools for something else anyways.
R
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p
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yeah i know but i wanted to post anyways
No tapered punches!!!!

8mm or 3/8" punch and be done.
why not tapered punches? they work great. and btw finding an 8mm punch is near impossible. 4 counties and nobody had one
 

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harbor freight has a metric punch set ....

and if you lost your hf punch needed to do this but have spare head parts lying around like me....or your to cheap to buy a punch

i had a valve that had a small chip off it that i changed out a few years ago....why i still had it i dont know.....but it is the perfect size to punch out the bitch pin :)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
harbor freight has a metric punch set ....

and if you lost your hf punch needed to do this but have spare head parts lying around like me....or your to cheap to buy a punch

i had a valve that had a small chip off it that i changed out a few years ago....why i still had it i dont know.....but it is the perfect size to punch out the bitch pin :)


HF here in ohio doesnt stock metric punch anymore :( and said they cant even order them. thats why i had to resort to this way. but it DID work. so i figured i would take the time to post up pics and such for anyone that needed info
 

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there's another little trick that i found works well if you have a bunch of spare extensions. first find a 3/8 socket that your punch will fit into. i use a 1/4 inch flat punch in a 5/8 socket. take whatever random tape you have running around and wrap just enough tape on it so the punch won't fall out of the socket. then put together as many extensions as you need to create about a 2 1/2 to 3ft extension for your punch. remove your air intake from your tb and you should now be able to reach the bitch pin from the top, giving you more than enough room to swing whatever size hammer you think you need. there will be a little bit of wobble to the stacked extensions but if you line it up well for the first tap or two the hole will guide the punch just fine the rest of the way
 

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there's another little trick that i found works well if you have a bunch of spare extensions. first find a 3/8 socket that your punch will fit into. i use a 1/4 inch flat punch in a 5/8 socket. take whatever random tape you have running around and wrap just enough tape on it so the punch won't fall out of the socket. then put together as many extensions as you need to create about a 2 1/2 to 3ft extension for your punch. remove your air intake from your tb and you should now be able to reach the bitch pin from the top, giving you more than enough room to swing whatever size hammer you think you need. there will be a little bit of wobble to the stacked extensions but if you line it up well for the first tap or two the hole will guide the punch just fine the rest of the way
i wouldnt hammer my tools...
 

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iv had more of a problem losing them as it tends to like to fly out on me lol. doesnt take long to get out at all.
 
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