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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys. Got a freshly built d16z6 that I’ve been trying to get running for a while now. A lot of time spent waiting on my tuner to have some free time to get started on this motor. Finally got some time yesterday to see if we can get it going. After a few hiccups we finally got oil pressure and decided to run it. Well it started but will not stay running. He played with the fuel maps and we adjusted timing but we could not keep it running without being in and out of the throttle and as soon as I let off it dies. It ran for about 10 seconds at most when running the throttle in and out. He was saying that the engine load was unusually high and the vacuum shown pretty low. But we never got it to idle so I don’t know how accurate that is. He seems to think it’s in the mechanical timing and wants to degree the cam. Trouble is I never received a cam card for the bisi 2.4 turbo cam so I’m not sure what to spec it to. I tried calling bisi but they won’t do anything without an order # and for some reason I can not find it in my email (I bought it 9 months ago). I was wondering if anyone happens to have the cam card for the bisi 2.4 cam. Stock height head and block. Or maybe any other possible solutions to my motor not staying running. Vitara/eagle build with bisi 2.4 cam and 1050cc ID’s on e85. Pretty much everything in the bay is new.
Ngk bkr7e’s gapped at .03” Thanks in advance.
 

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I'm in agreement with mechanical timing. Bisi cam should be set to 0 deg on your cam sprocket (if you're using an adjustable) ensure proper crank sprocket alignment and proper cam sprocket alignment. What cam sprocket are you using? Some are not incredibly accurate, particularly off-brands..
 

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\/Your Mom Was Here\/
Vibe GT
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4,832 Posts
Bisi doesn't like to give cam cards... or good cams to his customers.

https://www.d-series.org/forums/engine-building/136413-importance-cam-card-what-should-include.html

This thread has a claim quoted in it.
https://www.d-series.org/forums/general-tech/220802-d16-cam-specs.html

0.440″ valve lift on the intake and 0.430″ exh; 252 deg duration on intake and 233 deg exhaust at 0.040″ Optimized lobe separation. Destroys all other competitors turbo camshafts, with a 80whp+ improvement over stock at 20psi, and improved spooling characteristics!

I could also leave all the threads about the broken cams and wore out rocker arms...

EDIT:

You also don't need 2 threads. I am sure you didn't mean that though...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well I am using a VMS cam gear. Didn’t really hear anything bad about them but who knows. Kinda tempted to run the stock cam gear. Hell, almost willing to swap back to the stock cam too. Idk, apparently I didn’t do enough research cause I’m hearing nothing but terrible things about bisi and already their customer service has proven it. Yeah there’s guys making good power with his cams but damn, hearing people say they only last 10k miles is rediculous. Anyways thanks for the links Beerdrinkin. But yeah, didn’t mean to post twice. I know I’m a noob :p I do a lot of reading but rarely ever post here.
 

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Well I am using a VMS cam gear. Didn’t really hear anything bad about them but who knows. Kinda tempted to run the stock cam gear. Hell, almost willing to swap back to the stock cam too. Idk, apparently I didn’t do enough research cause I’m hearing nothing but terrible things about bisi and already their customer service has proven it. Yeah there’s guys making good power with his cams but damn, hearing people say they only last 10k miles is rediculous. Anyways thanks for the links Beerdrinkin. But yeah, didn’t mean to post twice. I know I’m a noob :p I do a lot of reading but rarely ever post here.
Ditch that garbage cam gear and get an AEM. I had a VMS crank pulley and the timing Mark's were off considerably. I had my car timed to 16° as it should have been but when I put a stock pulley back on after the damn bolt walked out on me on the road, it was off a notch. Rest ignition timing and the difference was night and day. Lol

Edit.. If you decide to get rid of the cam, lemme know. I'd be willing to try out a bisi cam without paying the bisi price. :)
 

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my VMS crank pulley for my civics d16y7 was spot on. set timing prior with stock pulley just to verify.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Hmmm, some mixed feelings about this cam gear...and yeah, not giving up on this cam yet. I already paid premium price for this paperweight so I’m gonna rock it and see what happens. Should be fun while it lasts if I can only get this damn thing running.
 

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Honda City
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Contact Web Cams. They made your cam. Tell them that Bisi won't provide a cam card that you require to run his fucking product. If neither party offers to help, find someone who has the same cam for sale and ask him to provide you the card. IIRC, there were a couple of members who'd helped others when they were PM'd for a cam card.

OTOH, you have companies like Crower that made a custom cam for me and put the cam card online, you can find it here or in my email inbox. Hell, they provided this even.
 

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Meat Popsicle
91 CRX Si
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Yeah, the cam gear thing again...

Long ago, Bisi offered a cam group buy for DSO members. Bunch of members bought cams; most (if not all) did not receive cam cards. Everyone was pissed, Bisi claimed that the lack of a cam card was to protect his cam specs and prevent knockoffs. Now all the OGs on this site who remember this generally dislike Bisi.


Web *might* give you the cam spec info, like cyanide said, but I know that members had previously tried this without luck.


Now, with that being said, you really shouldn't need the cam card to get the engine running. Even if the cam gear is off a few degrees, the engine would still run.

The simplest solution would probably be to swap in the OEM cam gear and re-check/re-set your mechanical timing. That way you can be certain that your mechanical timing is correct. It should be pretty easy to put both cam gears side-by-side to verify that the timing mark is correct.
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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I'd talk to Laurie @ Web, she might be of help. Also what core was your ground on? Y8 core regrind in a Z6 would be a timing headache.

I stuck with and original AEM 3 bolt that never slipped and was dead nuts on. Because of it I was able to figure out the 1/2 tooth cam timing error due to the deck height differences on D16A6 and D15B7 when swapping cams.
 
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