Honda D Series Forum banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
175 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Ok well my friend junk sunk a good amount of cash into a motor rebuild which included taking a head the stock 1993 civic dx motor due to a piston through the block and placing that head on a D15b8 bottom end...

I dont know the details of what went on in the process of building it he said he just changed all the gaskets as well as belts and said he made sure the timing was correct.

So here is the problem as far as I can tell from 3-4hrs of tinkering with it....

Symptoms
-Wont idle under 2k and it wont truely idle it is iratic in that is wont stay truley put on 2k but wont go past 3k in its spurt.

-When you move the rotor farther back it becomes a little better/ quieter....forward louder worse

-When you push the throttle it hesitates and will not rev at all sorta bogs then stays at 2k

-One of his friends tried moving it to show me it went past 2k since he did the work on it and well it sorta did then back fired loud.....

My thoughts on it
-Timings off first thing that came into my mind

-Vaccum leak?

-a bad Sensor somewhere....

Looking for some help on this matter id really like to help him out alot and any helpful hints to how i can solve this problem would be greatly appreciated.

P.s. one of my other friends has a stock dx motor with a blown head should he get that instead and just transfer all the new stuff over to that and buy another head gasket set..????

He already put alot of time and money into this car to make it run and well its not going to well so i am unsure if he wants to pay to much more so please let me know what you guys think on this matter.
Thank you
John
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
175 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
supposevly the timing was correct before the motor was placed back in it was timed at tdc and the head was on its compression stroke.
 

·
Lurking... ಠ_ಠ In Your Thread
Joined
·
11,969 Posts
played with the throttle cable any? how is the timing?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
175 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
yea I have played with the throlle cable its correctly placed and that would not have anything to do with it as when you hit the gas or throttle it dose nothing but bogg down and pop a couple of times.....and like i said above supposevly everything is timed correctly.....

Surprizingly no there are no check engine lights on except when i switched to my p28 ecu then the vtec solinoid one went on (thought it was the ecu at first.....) but that was an incorrect assumption when it kept doing its thing so that was checked off my list
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,987 Posts
verify that these line up:
oil pump pulley points to it's mark
crank pulley points to TDC
cam pulley is in the up position and it's marks are level with the head

what ecu is he running?

sounds like a map sensor issue

or possibly the dizzy is 180 degrees in the wrong direction, take off the distributor cap and make sure when the engine is at TDC the rotor button points to the #1 spark plug wire
 

·
Asshole
Joined
·
4,112 Posts
or possibly the dizzy is 180 degrees in the wrong direction, take off the distributor cap and make sure when the engine is at TDC the rotor button points to the #1 spark plug wire
Engine will not run with the distributor 180 degrees off. You cant fire on the exhaust stroke and produce compression to force the piston down :roll:.

Major vacuum leak, sensors may not be not hooked up and timing is not correct.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,661 Posts
-Wont idle under 2k and it wont truely idle it is iratic in that is wont stay truley put on 2k but wont go past 3k in its spurt. plugs are swapped around

-When you move the rotor farther back it becomes a little better/ quieter....forward louder worse timing is a tooth off on the cam

-When you push the throttle it hesitates and will not rev at all sorta bogs then stays at 2k again sensor plug

-One of his friends tried moving it to show me it went past 2k since he did the work on it and well it sorta did then back fired loud.....yeah, i would not do that again till you sort it out
these are the first things that came to mind... and here are some things we would need you to check:

1) map and TB sensor plugs are plugged in correctly
2) iacv and purge valve plugs are not swapped
3) tb cable tension and adjustment
4) cam timing
5) coolent system is fully purged of air
6) check your vac lines
7) note any sounds you might hear
8 ) check engine lights?
9) compression test, once engine is up to temp

to be honest, if you mess with it for 3-4 hours and can't get it.... well its time for a "pro" to look at it. maybe you should consider letting a "true" honda tech look at it.... just saying.
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top