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Discussion Starter #1
if anyone remembers the old one i hope this is a great improvement...

D16A6 block (reinfocred/bored 0.5mm/honed)
D17A1/2 crank (micropolished)
D16A1 rods (ARP bolts)
D16Z6 pistons
D16Z6 head (p&p/3 angle valve job/ARP studs)

the reinforcement is from the thread on this forum. it will help strengthen the sleeves after the bore. the bore and hone are just to get the walls straight and un shroud the vavles w/o going too big on the pistons. the microposlish is jsut to clean us the journals. the bolts are self explanitory. the head is for better flow at all rpms, the valve job is for low rpm efficiency, and yet again ARP is self explanitory. new gaskets and seals and rings of course are included.

according to zealautowerks this will give me a 1691cc engine with a 1.45 r/s. i kno that's not that good but this is gonna be a DD/autox not a rev monster.

now for the tricky part. i was gonna use the A6 head gasket but was advised not to as this is a metal composite and doesnt hold up well to high pressure. with this gasket i would have a 11.5:1 cr, pushing the limit i kno. it is 0.048" thick. now wat i plan to do instead to keep around that CR, i was gonna use 2, yes 2, 2-layer y8 gaskets. these are 0.025" and two together would be 0.050". lowering the CR to 11.4:1. i was gonna use copper spray between these to hold them together. one person said it'd fail horribly. another said he cant see a reason it would work. just make sure it's done right. either way i'm gonna do some more research combined with the responses here and try to come up with an answer.

the intake manifold/exhaust manifold/exhaust will all be stock until the engine is broken in. yes i understand that these will hinder the performance gain that is achieved INITIALLY. but these are also not needed until after the break in period. they will be performance matched parts for the application. along with other bolt on parts for the build.

i will also do an obd swap. most likely obd1, but possibly obd2. waiting on a response from my other posts then i'll fix it here. i'll upgrade the ignition to be balanced with the fuel and air wen the time comes. guages will light my cabin. a proper tune will be used. not sure which yet, havent really done much research but will in the near future.
 

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A1/A6/Z6/Y7/Y8/D17 rods don't matter, they all fail the same. Only thing your missing is how far the P28 pistons will stick out of the bore. Just use PMS pistons and a custom Cometic head gasket or the Mr. Gasket stackable HG to get .050".
 

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Discussion Starter #3
according to zeal it would be -0.087. i'm pretty sure that's good bu ti might be wrong. idk...

also would the A6 gasket hold up to this kinda of pressure? cuz i'm sure it'd be cheaper to buy just one gasket than two...

also i thought that the A1 rods were thicker and could support more power than the other D-series rods...
 

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Yeah, that's .087" out of the hole. Too far for my taste, but I wish you luck there. Just buy a prober gasket like the Mr. Gasket one that's made to go that think or call Cometic about a thicker gasket that suits your needs.

The A1 rods fail around 225 like all the other rods. Your making the R/S ratio worse by doing it, I'd just stick with a D16 and be happy.
 

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I'm pretty sure you have to use the D17 rods on the D17 crank. Something about offset journals I think.

Could be wrong, but that's what I remember hearing.
 

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You need to use D17 rods with the D17 crank because the space between the crank journals are smaller so you need narrower rods. Or you can pay to get your D16 rods narrowed but I don't recommend it. D17 OEM pistons and rods can be found for about $50. You should also go with the D17 piston as well which has the lower compression height and will eliminate any deck clearance issues and also improve the R/S ratio.
 

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You should also go with the D17 piston as well which has the lower compression height and will eliminate any deck clearance issues and also improve the R/S ratio.

D17 and D16 rods are the smae length, it won't affect the R/S ratio, it's going to suck either way.
 

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How does a piston relate to a R/s ratio :hammer: (ROD to Stroke ratio)
D17 crank makes it even worse indeed ;)
Sorry, that's that's obviously correct.

D17 crank make the the R/S worse for rpm but better for low end torque.

And let's not get hung up on the Honda Tuning stroked D16 that supposedly blew up. There are millions of engines with this R/S ratio that haven't blown up and can hold boost. There in every 2001-2005 Civic.
 

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I'm sure it did blow up if they had it cammed and revving to 8k+.

I don't see any problems if you keep it at the D17's redline (6800ish?).
 

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D16A1 rods are actually slightly narrower, I believe. Not that, that matters here.

P28s (Z6 pistons) will sit almost a tenth of an inch above the block. I've never examined a Z6 head, but I would imagine that is too far.

After looking around at pictures, I think PMS pistons may give you the best chamber shape you're going to get from an OEM piston. They may require some clever machining of the exhaust side to be ideal. Here is a great article on designing chamber shape: http://www.theoldone.com/articles/The_Soft_Head_1999/

He are some pictures of the chamber you're wanting to use: http://www.theoldone.com/articles/d16a_head/

And here are OEM piston pictures: http://heeltoeauto.com/httech/YaBB.pl?num=1160787887

A calculator to help you with those compression numbers: http://www.zealautowerks.com/dseries.html

Also, 11.5:1 is not approaching the limit. I have heard of well designed chambers running 15+:1 c/r on premium pump gas. YOU won't make that, but I've read of it being done (engine type not specified, but I doubt it was done on a Honda), just to give you an idea. I personally would not hesitate to build a D in the 13-14:1 c/r range with 91 octane, if I were interested in such a build (the advantage of a small bore: greater resistance to detonation). Do more research before attempting something like that though.
 
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