Honda D Series Forum banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
i hav a 91 ef hatch wid stock d15b2 with dual point and 4spd tranny, shud i wrk wid wut i got or swap n a z6 or d15 vtec...i wanna raise tha compression as i as i can...i was gonna swap n a mpfi intake manifold n build up tha stock engine... it was hard 2 find h/c parts 4 tha non vtec d15 thats why im asking...any insight wud be greatly appreciated
 

·
Formerly weebeastie
Joined
·
1,064 Posts
Suggestions

First off. This forum is big on searching because the same questions get asked over and over again. If you don't search you'll get flamed.

Second, we also poke fun at the ghetto shorthand.

Third, I'm willing to help. The easiest and probably cheapest way for you to go fast and stay N/A is to find an 88-91 d16a6 Si engine and transmission and put some P29 pistons, Bisimoto level 2 cam in the engine, and a Xenocron ECU FTW!


Read my signature. I'm running pretty hard. Have already outrun several 5.0's and will probably turn a high 13 in the 1/4. I've got more work than that done to my engine, but thats a good starting point.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
676 Posts
Aight dude.

Lesson one

Most people on this forum are complete nerds and never had some good pussy so they will flame you just because they think they are better than you and because they don´t want to see no one do better things then them.

So here you go. YOU and only you have to decide wheather to keep or get rid of your D15B2. IMO you should get rid of it cuz parts like Forged rods and other things are more expansive and hard to find. So I would go D16Z6. Then if you want to go full out. I would Bore the block. At least to 78mm, I did 80mm but if you want to be safe then just do 78mm, Deck your block, mill your head, Bigger valves, Bisimoto cam ( at least stage 2 ) valve springs and retainers, Some bronze valve guides while your at it, Port and shim that oil pump, Get a cam gear to fix your timing since your going to mill the head and shit. Get a eprom burner and a chip. Get a basemap.... burn that chip and throw it in your new ecu. Go get that bitch tunned and Post pictures of every thing you fucking do from tightening bolts to taking a shit brake so people here wont call you a lier.

Holpe I´ve helped
PCE
 

·
Formerly weebeastie
Joined
·
1,064 Posts
Meant to ask a question earlier

Aight dude.

Lesson one

Most people on this forum are complete nerds and never had some good pussy so they will flame you just because they think they are better than you and because they don´t want to see no one do better things then them.

So here you go. YOU and only you have to decide wheather to keep or get rid of your D15B2. IMO you should get rid of it cuz parts like Forged rods and other things are more expansive and hard to find. So I would go D16Z6. Then if you want to go full out. I would Bore the block. At least to 78mm, I did 80mm but if you want to be safe then just do 78mm, Deck your block, mill your head, Bigger valves, Bisimoto cam ( at least stage 2 ) valve springs and retainers, Some bronze valve guides while your at it, Port and shim that oil pump, Get a cam gear to fix your timing since your going to mill the head and shit. Get a eprom burner and a chip. Get a basemap.... burn that chip and throw it in your new ecu. Go get that bitch tunned and Post pictures of every thing you fucking do from tightening bolts to taking a shit brake so people here wont call you a lier.

Holpe I´ve helped
PCE


What piston did you use? I'm sure they had to be expensive since they were fully custom units. Got a part number?


To the OP: Anything larger than 76mm will require a custom piston which equals lots of extra $$. Plus your USDM block will probably not stand more than 76mm without sleeves. 1mm overbore = .040".

If you kept the b2 engine you could do the MPFI/A6 cam swap and an Si transmission. That'll get you up in the 100 hp range. Tuned you might even break 110-115. Its all in how much you want to spend.
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top