Anyone have any recommendations for the best turbo to use that performs well but isn't too expensive for a stock D16Y8? I will be upgrading the fuel system but other than that, planning on keeping the motor stock. I'd like something that spools relatively quickly, as the earlier I can get into boost, the better. Not looking for a HUGE gain in power, but definitely something to wake up this SOHC.
Also, I will be keeping my A/C, P/S, etc. So hoping it will clear everything, pending the manifold I go with. External wastegate is preferred.
Covered many many many times. The above works well. A small t3 super 60 would work, or any t3 turbo for that matter. An eBay turbo WILL work with an oil line restrictor, still could be hit or miss but Godspeed is stepping up their game slowly. Best bet is to find a t3 based name brand turbo and rebuild it. eBay intercooler will do the job just fine as well. eBay wastegate and bov can be rebuilt with name brand parts.
Likely need a log manifold to keep ps/ac, not 100% on this but I know for sure it will allow you to keep both.
Obviously it's best to start with a quality setup, but the budget above has been proven to work but not consistent on longevity.
the only thing is finding a manifold that will fit a t28 and still clear ac.
Most manifolds are for t3 on the civic.
My last step up used a nissan t25 and an edelbrock t28 manifold.Very fun and spooled up quick but that manifold is discontinued and you really cant find it.
Im doing my second setup now and debiting on going t3 or trying to get a slim adapter plate to go t28
This was my first first set-up almost like what i mentioned above, except the turbo is off of a Mazdaspeed 3 which is the K04 that Audi S3 also uses. Stock D16 and with a nice street tune it kept running 13s on steelies.
We used a Hf manifold with a custom adapter plate to run the turbo
Here's a thread of the build just in case it will help
Boost pressure is present around 2.5k and full boost at 3.8k I rocked this set-up for about a year or so before taking it apart and built the motor. I've also ran small t3 ebay turbos much simpler set-up with t3 flange ram horn etc...
Jvtec I did basically the same thing with my first setup...i used a 3/8 plate, drilled all the holes for the he manifold and t3 flange, then welded the bolts into the plate and ground them flat.
If I go with a T3 flanged manifold that'll clear AC, what do you guys think of this turbo?
If it is no good, let me know. for $150, I would be tempted to take my chances???
If I go a T25 turbo route, looks like most if not all are internal wastegate. Best just to get any manifold that will fit A/C and then block off the external wastegate port?
If it is no good, let me know. for $150, I would be tempted to take my chances???
If I go a T25 turbo route, looks like most if not all are internal wastegate. Best just to get any manifold that will fit A/C and then block off the external wastegate port?
That's your stander eBay turbo. It will work, just needs a oil resectior.
And for t25/t28 your need a adapter plate. Which can cause problems depending on which manifold you use.
If you can find a t25 manifold then all is pretty good. And yes you can just block off the wastegate hole. They sell plates for this normally about $25.
The best thing to do tho is look at other peoples build and see what they did to get it all working.
But you can use
The cast iron manifold version 2
EBay t3 turbo.
A custom made downpipe 2.25 or 2.5 and it will clear ac easily.
Then get a wastegate and do open dump for less welding/fab work.
Or route it back into the downpipe for a quieter car.
Make sure you heat wrap all you can. And your have a turbo civic with ac.
I always felt like eBay turbos measured out to be smaller than they are advertised.. I've seen people say that but I haven't personally measured any of the ones I've owned and compared them to Garrett specs..
although my 60 trim .63 A/R hotside spooled like it had a .48 housing...
anyone ever check if their turbos were true to size?
^ They are smaller I did measure the wheels and compared them to my turbonetics 50trim but it was expected. I learned my lesson and wouldn't mess with adapter plates and and just go T3 flange so that you can swap turbos like a breeze.
Also a win win part is the turbo blanket. They really keep the temps in the engine compartment down and only change with and without the blanket on mine it started spooling over 500 rpms sooner with the blanket.
Good stuff... I was already considering the blanket just to keep as much heat as I can off of the A/C components.
At this point, I am likely going to go with a T3 flanged manifold, just for the flexibility in turbo options, and the room for growth down the road. I am hoping to go with a reasonably small turbo though with the T3 flange. I really want to spool early, full boost early. I won't be revving the thing through the moon often, so I want as much boost through the mid-range as I can get.
Also, I am not too familiar with the tunes and PCM on these hondas. Any recommendations for "chipped PCM" info? does that literally mean I can put a chip for a given setup and just run with it?
I was planning on buying the tuning software and putting full wideband tune on it myself when it came time for the build. However, this thing is my daily. So it was going to be a heck of a weekend build/tune/test! (a bit intimidating)
If i were you i would find a reputable shop nearby or i can refer a shop by me to chip your ecu and put a basemap on it for you. Then from there if you wish to try tuning it yourself you can tweak the map thats been done partially for you. Otherwise i'd get it professionally tuned!
You don't need a chipped P28, any obd1 ecu will work and cheaper then the P28 myth. If your NA engine needs the P28 then sure, but your yanking the map so the p28 is useless.
I never understood why people wire up resistor boxes when there are so many injector choices out there.
And whoever posts "cuz its cheaper" needs a wake up call. If your boosting then you better have some flip in that wallet. Prepare for when stuff breaks!
A few extra bucks for an RDX set up or some 410s will save from hacked up wiring. We've come along way from dsm's and fmu's.
I never understood why people wire up resistor boxes when there are so many injector choices out there.
And whoever posts "cuz its cheaper" needs a walk up call. If your boosting then you better have some flip in that wallet. Prepare for when stuff breaks!
A few extra bucks for an RDX set up or some 410s will save from hacked up wiring. We've come along way from dsm's and fmu's.
DSM 450s can be easier to find than RDX injectors. A set of 450s and a box can be gotten for less than $75. Idk what the going rate is for RDX injectors and they can be harder to find depending on some things.
Either is fine and can get the job done
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