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Discussion Starter #1
I have a d16y8 in my 96 ex, now whats the best possible intake manifold setup I can buy?!? I guess IM better upgrade this b4 anymore internals... I am just gonna guess at the best and see what u guys think:

EdelBrock Performer X with a 65mm BBK throttle body? can u beat that?? :)
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Does anyone make a bigger intake than 65mm??? The bigger the better right?? or am I wrong?
 
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Without FI anything above 60mm is -at best- just a waste. Honda heads are exceptionally efficient and even with a port and polish there is maybe a need for another 30cfm in an NA app. There are quite a few people around here with the performer X and they seem happy enough. Nevertheless, think very carefully about how much slower the air is going to be moving for a given port demand (vaccum durring intake stroke over the total area of the port -generally the choke point-) and see if the gains at high rpms -due to reduced pumping loss- balance out with the drop in torque at low rpms -due to considerably slower air flow. My caution to you will be this: consider how often you ACTUALLY drive above 5500 vs. how often you run around 3500 before you make any choice concerning what you are willing to live with.
 
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Incidentaly, if bigger was in fact better, shouldn't we all be driving something with over 6 litres of displacement?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I see..... I just want the best gains for my d16...I really dont know where to go now...
 
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MyblkVTEC said:
Does anyone make a bigger intake than 65mm??? The bigger the better right?? or am I wrong?
there are bigger tb's out there but i think its over kill on an all motor app. i would just go with a 60mm gsr or ls tb(94+) or if your lucky a type r tb they are 62mm.

as far as the manifold im personally going with the skunk unit. although ive read and heard that the edelbrock is a better unit
 

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well, bigger TBs, intake runners, exhaust runners, head ports, &c. these all allow greater total airflow. However, when you start making all these dimensions larger and larger, you lose air velocity. This is important to the operation of your engine in lower RPMs (see driving in traffic). If you have no velocity, your engine will bog, sputter, lose torque, and generally suck until you get it to, say, 5k rpms. Above this point, the engine is breathing fast enough that it generates the required velocity anyways, and you do end up with more power. This is great for a purpose built track car that is built to withstand operating at above 5k rpms all day long. On the track these cars are always at the top of the rev range and are making top power.
Basically, you'll gain top end power if you make all your breathing aparati bigger, but potentially lose A LOT of drivability.

-ic

now that I'm done writing this, it appears that the question has already been answered ;-)
 
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MyblkVTEC said:
I see..... I just want the best gains for my d16...I really dont know where to go now...
have u already got our ihe. those are the easiest mods to do. also what are your goals. u will notice a manifold and tb upgrade no doubt. i think dscience just made it seem a little more of a loss in hp than it is in reality.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Say I would go with the Performer X and limit the tb size to 62mm, lets say a holley or a bbk unit...would that be kosher? I mean beings its not too big not yet not too small....?
 

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well here is my 2 cents for what it's worth.... exactly. Before you go throwing on a bunch of bolt-ons like TB's/IM's and such, you need to decide what the end result in the way of performance is to be. No matter how big/small whatever your TB/IM is, N/A or F/I, you need to decide what you're app is going to be. Then decide if you're perspective bolt-ons are worth it right outa the hole. My point being is that if you want to get some substantial performace you should be looking at entire build instead of 1 or 2 mild upgrades. Bigger I/M or T/B are only going to increase performance in as much as the cam will allow. Hell you could throw on some Forced Induction and the performace will only elevate as much as the cam will let it. I'm not saying you won't see improvement with larger T/B and I/M but it's all a balance, more air flow better top end lose a little bottom end unless you go F/I to keep velocity up ect... I like to compare it to building a bicycle wheel, what you do to one spoke has a positive one negetive effect on the others until you find the balance between them all. So before you go dropping Cha-ching on any bolt-ons make a decision on what you want the motor to do and then do the research and pick ppl's brains on how to get the motor to that point.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I want t mildly built motor, with a blower on it.... let say jackson, what I mean with internals is a stage 2 cam, valves and crower springs and retainers..... sound good??
 

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Discussion Starter #12
But then again I dont need a intake and tb when I get a blower so its kind of a dumbass post job, my bad....I just dont know where to go with ym d16y8....hm
 
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MyblkVTEC said:
But then again I dont need a intake and tb when I get a blower so its kind of a dumbass post job, my bad....I just dont know where to go with ym d16y8....hm
You are doing the right thing! You are asking, learning, planning... this is how everyone starts although some do the learning the hard way and the asking in terms of why something doesnt work. There are gobs of FI info around here so drive slow for a bit longer....
 

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learn and do things right the first time. buy the quality parts first. sure it will cost more now, but save in the long run. but the 1st thing you need to know in any journey is the destination.

figure out if you want to go supercharger or turbo or all motor or nitrous or stock. and figure out what will work best together.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I plan on going all motor, I just feel, its would give me more of that "good feeling" knowing I beat a faster car(thank a stock civ) with a sohc 4-banger.. :)
 

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ridin on rotas
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I don't know that all motor will get you where you want to be. it's very hard to do and will cost some serious $$. it would be more cost effective to go super/turbo. but it can be done all motor. you should get the manifold then find out the port size on the manifold then get a tb to match it or port a tb to match the manifold. this is fairly import for racing to keep the air flowing smoothly into the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
yeah, who knows where ILL BE in 6 months I have a list of things I want to do, but turboing sounds sweet, but its like 2500 for a full kit and install is spendy as hell!!! not to mention tuning!!! OUCH
 

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you can always do the custom route. spend less than 1000 on the whole thing. takes more time. but you get the satisfaction of doing it yourself.
 
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