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Whats the best vtec motor to buildup for power and how much can be expected? Whats the best non-vtec motor for buildup and how much can be expected?
 

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FI or NA? General concensus here is the D15B VTEC is the best VTEC enigne. But I've never personally used it. Between Y8 and Z6 I would use the Z6.


Hands down the A6 is the best Non-vtec I've seen 200 WHP NA put down by this engine.
 

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use pieces from all of them! d15b bottom end, z6 head, y8 intake manifold, blah blah blah
 

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the hard-parker
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i think more voting is for the z6 as a general concensus. kinda have to tell us what your goals are so we can help you out a lil' bit more....
 
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Not sure what to expect. I am going to put a lot of money in what I decide to build. I plan on having at least 11:1 compression. Maybe low boost later on.
 
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I don't understand why pple says D15B if parts are hard to get! I've already done a search, ask question on the D15B and I was disapointed with the answers I got. I would say the Z6 is maybe the best overall engine. Easy to find parts and good desing.
 

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Curious George
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- Some d15 have better rod ratio of D-series, who are really good for higher rpm with vtec head.
- D16y8 and d16z6 have similar potential, head port is differents, but we knows we can achieve our goal with each one, really good with N/A , nitrous, and not so bad with turbo and SC, they are many possibility of tuning, especialy with vtec.
- d16y7, D16a6, y7 is newer cheaper and really easy, rod are thinner but made of better material instead of the opposite way of A6, for old fashioned guys who love non-vtec like me, there is good potential at all, who love FI too.

I like each D, for there quality, but I don't like so much ZC, old engine, rod ratio isn't better than others, big, bizzard twin cam, and really, D is fun because easy and single cam, small and light, If I want to go with twin cam, I'll go with B or H.
 

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burningwrek said:
use pieces from all of them! d15b bottom end, z6 head, y8 intake manifold, blah blah blah
d15b bottom end and a z6 head is a d15b but d15b has better cam.....imo the best vtec d to build is a d16z6 and non vtec is a d16a6.
 
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Discussion Starter #10
the y8 IM is overrated.. so is the head..
Z6 4 life! lol
 

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Noone has mentioned the quality of the main girdle and crank in the A6 bottom end. They are superior to the Z6 and Y8. The A6 crank has a 45 degree angle cut into the oil holes which increases oiling at higher rpm...kinda works like a chamfer. Z6 head is superior to the Y8 when built to the fullest extent from a flow standpoint but the Y8 has greater detonation resistance due to the non recessed squish areas (otherwise referred to as closed combustion chambers).
 

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BseriesKllR said:
d15b bottom end and a z6 head is a d15b but d15b has better cam.....imo the best vtec d to build is a d16z6 and non vtec is a d16a6.
I just said the z6 head because it flows the best out of all the d-series heads. but if someones completely buiding an engine from parts, who's gonna use a stock cam? :TU:
 

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ridin on rotas
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z6 is better for turbo stock than y8. but with the right modifications to each head, in the end y8 will equal a z6. z6 is also more prone to detonation than y8, but that can be fixed. and the ports on the y8 and can be fixed to flow like the z6.
 

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vtecnitrocrx said:
No one has mentioned the quality of the main girdle and crank in the A6 bottom end. They are superior to the Z6 and Y8. The A6 crank has a 45 degree angle cut into the oil holes which increases oiling at higher rpm...kinda works like a chamfer. Z6 head is superior to the Y8 when built to the fullest extent from a flow standpoint but the Y8 has greater detonation resistance due to the non recessed squish areas (otherwise referred to as closed combustion chambers).
What is the difference between te A6 and the Z6 Girdle ... they looked VERY similar when I compared them...big full length Girdles with lots of meat to support the crank.

Are you sure the Z6 and A6 have different cranks ... as Honda lists them as the same part # ... 13310-PM6-010 ??

The other difference between the Z6 and A6 is the block itself ... The A6 has more stiffening ribs cast in ... it should be stronger over all.

In my eyes the A6 and Z6 shortblocks are VERY similar in strength with the A6 being a bit stronger. The Rods are the weakest link in these motors (All D-series for that matter) ... neither of them will support more than 180ish HP With Forged rods and a quality build, and good tunning these blocks should support 300+ HP

The Y8 is the WORST short block of the bunch with what appears to be some sort of oiling issue that seems to eat bearings ...particularily the #4 rod

The D15 Short Blocks are are a bit weaker with lighter rods and a crank with smaller bearings if memory serves me. The only exception seems to be the JDM D15B or the D15Z1 which use a longer rod have a nicer R/S ratio and rev all day to 8K

Cheers

Moose
 
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Discussion Starter #17
What about the d17"s how hard are they to find parts for?
 

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I am absolutely positive about the Z6 versus A6 crank. I have torn down many and the difference is certain. Even in the very early Z6's (92's) they don't have the 45 degree angle in the oil holes. I am certain on that one.
Also I must say that I have had several Z6's with spun #4 rod bearings, I don't think that is an exclusive Y8 issue at all. Even direct from Larry's mouth at Endyn, he puts alot of attention to both of the vtec cranks because of the oiling issues he has seen in both when used in high rpm motors. He has spoken many times on the superior quality of the A6 crank and mains girdle. His experience far surpasses mine, and even aside what I have seen myself, I don't doubt what he says in that area. Plus I am 90% certain that I recall him saying that the A6 girdles are iron. I mean I have been sitting here for 15 minutes contemplating typing that, but I swear that I recall him saying it. I know also, that the A1 bottom ends have the crank with the stock chamfers. As far as the A6 girdle material, I will confirm that tomorrow to be sure. If the magnet sticks though...oh my!
 

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vtecnitrocrx said:
I am absolutely positive about the Z6 versus A6 crank. I have torn down many and the difference is certain. Even in the very early Z6's (92's) they don't have the 45 degree angle in the oil holes. I am certain on that one.
Also I must say that I have had several Z6's with spun #4 rod bearings, I don't think that is an exclusive Y8 issue at all. Even direct from Larry's mouth at Endyn, he puts alot of attention to both of the vtec cranks because of the oiling issues he has seen in both when used in high rpm motors. He has spoken many times on the superior quality of the A6 crank and mains girdle. His experience far surpasses mine, and even aside what I have seen myself, I don't doubt what he says in that area. Plus I am 90% certain that I recall him saying that the A6 girdles are iron. I mean I have been sitting here for 15 minutes contemplating typing that, but I swear that I recall him saying it. I know also, that the A1 bottom ends have the crank with the stock chamfers. As far as the A6 girdle material, I will confirm that tomorrow to be sure. If the magnet sticks though...oh my!
Hmmm I just checked spare bare block in the basement ... it is a 92 casting Z6 and the crank has 45 degree chamfers on all the oil-holes in the bearing surfaces ... Hmmm I will have to beg / borrow or steal a A6 crank to compare the two side by side. Perhaps the A6 has a bigger/better chamfer.

I could not find the girdle to match the block ... I really have to clean the basement : ( I will have to dig up one of those to see what it is made of ... and compare it to a A6 block.

Keep us in the loop as to the A6 girdle composition.

Cheers

Moose
 

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n_23_s said:
What about the d17"s how hard are they to find parts for?
Not easy ... almost no aftermrket support for engine internals ...however you may be able to modify / use some other d-series internal parts, or order some custom Crower rods / JE etc pistons.

Moose
 
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