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Discussion Starter #1
i'm looking to have my n/a (bolt-ons) d167y street tuned on crome fairly soon. i was just wondering what is a good basemap to start with? the p06 ecu i had chipped from phearable was allegedly chipped for a y7 but i couldn't even drive it, it was that rich. i can still drive it around with the obd2 ecu without the obd1 jumper on it, it's just i get the IACV CEL.

i was asking this in case it would help out my tuner at all to make it a lil easier on him if at all possible, thanks.
 

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yuo just have bolts ones?



your stock ecu...
i would disagree, there is a lot to be had from a good tune. the factory ecu is tuned to pull a fully loaded car with ac on up a hill. thats pretty frigin rich

hard to find a good base for the y motors, expecialy the timing maps

pgmfi.org has a stock p2p ecu bin (y8 )

what i would do is export the tables from that

then in a p30 base import the tables and disable vtec

that should get it to run ok as long as you are using the 240cc injctors

once you get it to idle tune from there
 

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i would disagree, there is a lot to be had from a good tune. the factory ecu is tuned to pull a fully loaded car with ac on up a hill. thats pretty frigin rich

hard to find a good base for the y motors, expecialy the timing maps

pgmfi.org has a stock p2p ecu bin (y8 )

what i would do is export the tables from that

then in a p30 base import the tables and disable vtec

that should get it to run ok as long as you are using the 240cc injctors

once you get it to idle tune from there
+1
 

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i allways wondered where they got the stock maps from, since honda never just "gave" the stock tunes out. Somone had to datalog them and create them, wich means they arent allways perfect..
 

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Discussion Starter #6
reason why i'm not running the stock ecu is because i already did the 3 to 2 wire IACV, switched to a manual manifold, and already bought the conversion harness and chipped ecu.

the reason why i did that was because i was planning on doing a p29/big cam build, but finances has restricted me so i just want to get my car back on the road and running fine.

that should get it to run ok as long as you are using the 240cc injctors

once you get it to idle tune from there
will running 240s instead of my 190s be easier to tune? i already have a set of obd2 240s so that isn't a problem, just curious...
 

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doesnt matter in crome you just use the fuel multiplier to convert the map to 190cc or leave it alone if you running 240cc

sounds like you need to read up on tuning more friend. . .
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
doesnt matter in crome you just use the fuel multiplier to convert the map to 190cc or leave it alone if you running 240cc

sounds like you need to read up on tuning more friend. . .
why would i need to read more up on tuning when i'm paying a tuner to do it? i can understand if i was trying to do it myself, but i'm not. although more knowledge in anything can't hurt, i guess it just seems like a really overwhelming area for me. anyways, thanks for the help, i really appreciate it. i'll just leave the 190s in since the 240s won't be necessary.
 

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i would disagree, there is a lot to be had from a good tune. the factory ecu is tuned to pull a fully loaded car with ac on up a hill. thats pretty frigin rich

hard to find a good base for the y motors, expecialy the timing maps

pgmfi.org has a stock p2p ecu bin (y8 )

what i would do is export the tables from that

then in a p30 base import the tables and disable vtec

that should get it to run ok as long as you are using the 240cc injctors

once you get it to idle tune from there


he said he wants a basemap

your stock ecu will get a bolt on build to the tuner...no question
 

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why would i need to read more up on tuning when i'm paying a tuner to do it? i can understand if i was trying to do it myself, but i'm not. although more knowledge in anything can't hurt, i guess it just seems like a really overwhelming area for me. anyways, thanks for the help, i really appreciate it. i'll just leave the 190s in since the 240s won't be necessary.
my bad thought you were do it yourself

when your making the basemap make sure to compensate for the 190's or it will run very rich
 

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Discussion Starter #11
when your making the basemap make sure to compensate for the 190's or it will run very rich
rgr dat.
he said he wants a basemap

your stock ecu will get a bolt on build to the tuner...no question
yea, i know that because the only way i can drive the car is with the factory ecu. the point of my question was to see if there was a good/easiest basemap to start with on my chipped obd1 ecu for my tuner's sake once the tuning commences.
 

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rgr dat.

yea, i know that because the only way i can drive the car is with the factory ecu. the point of my question was to see if there was a good/easiest basemap to start with on my chipped obd1 ecu for my tuner's sake once the tuning commences.
if the tuner doesnt know where/how to make a good base go somewhere else
 

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Discussion Starter #13
if the tuner doesnt know where/how to make a good base go somewhere else
he definitely knows what he's doing, i haven't spoken to him about this matter. i was simply trying to be considerate of him, if my input/info would even matter at all, while getting a better idea myself.
 

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your stock ecu will work fine with bolt-ons. No need for a tune if all you have is a intake and fartcan. And even if you do have the full intake(high flow filter, short or cold air tube and intake manifold) and full exhaust(header, high flow cat, bigger exhaust tubing with high flow muffler)....your ecu can tune itself to within 15% by using the o2 sensors, iacv, iat sensors.

But like stated, a good tune will make those parts show their true hp capabilities. Your tuner only needs to know what mods you have so he can tune accordingly. Dont do his job for him by finding a map similar to your setup, cause he/she will still charge you full price even though you did about 70% of the work.
 

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your stock ecu will work fine with bolt-ons. No need for a tune if all you have is a intake and fartcan. And even if you do have the full intake(high flow filter, short or cold air tube and intake manifold) and full exhaust(header, high flow cat, bigger exhaust tubing with high flow muffler)....your ecu can tune itself to within 15% by using the o2 sensors, iacv, iat sensors.
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thats only true for idle, at WOT it just reads off set parameters no matter what the sensors are telling it (except knock)
 

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thats only true for idle, at WOT it just reads off set parameters no matter what the sensors are telling it (except knock)
actually its true for in closed loop, wich at about 45% throttle angle it cancels out and goes into open loop. as soon as you come back down in rpm's and throttle angle it goes right back into closed loop.
 
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