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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, I plan to restore my DOHCZ ZC sitting in my del sol by changing injectors, head gasket, all gasket seals, camshaft seals and stuffs like that. I'm about to start very soon.

How should I start ?

removing the engine from the engine bay and working on it or change these parts from the top of th engine bay with the engine still inside the car ?

If I have to drop the engine complety, should I go with the engine and the transmission at the same time or one by one.

Thanks
 

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If you arent changing the crank seals or clutch, you shouldnt HAVE to pull the motor out. The items you mentioned are all accessable from the top. Also, how many miles are on the car? Motor? It may be cheaper to have your injectors cleaned or rebuilt.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thank you all for the replies, my car is actually 90000 miles I don't have to change the clutch or the crank seals but I want to do a good job, clean my engine bay. DO you think that I have to deal with the crank or connecting rods ... for maintenance ?
 

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Thank you all for the replies, my car is actually 90000 miles I don't have to change the clutch or the crank seals but I want to do a good job, clean my engine bay. DO you think that I have to deal with the crank or connecting rods ... for maintenance ?

Have you done a compression test? If your numbers are good, and it's not burning any oil, and you're not having any rod knock, I wouldn't worry about the crank/rods/pistons/rings.

IMO, it will be a little bit less work if you keep the engine in the car. Also, this way you won't need an engine stand. You have access to pretty much all the seals with it in the car, unless of course you replace the front and rear main seals (like mentioned above by 2000redCIVICsi).

IF you decide to drop the entire engine, I personally would do it as one piece. Quicker than removing things one at a time.

If you decide to keep it in the car, I would probably start from the top. Remove the head, replace HG plus clean out the I/M while it's off & replace TB and I/M gaskets. Replace your cam seals - and remember to follow the helms manual for torque specs and tightening sequence on your valvetrain! The manual also has a few specifics for RTV sealant with the head - make sure you follow everything. After replacing the HG, do your t-belt and water pump. After you've verified that the cam timing is correct and the engine turns without any binding, then go ahead and replace that oil pan gasket, then whatever else you've got in mind. :)

Good luck with it!
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I can't remove, this bolt when I try to pull out my cylinder head, I can't do it with the socket wrench cause the engine mount bolt wich is on the engine obstruct my tool, wich tool should I use to unbolt this thing ? thank you
even the open end wrench can't do it cause of the shape of the stering pump bracket...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
finally removed my cylinder head the bolt that previously obstruct me was removed by remove the engine mount bolt first.... I PLAN TO OPEN A BUILD THREAD ON THIS FORUM, see ya everybody thanks for your replies
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I got a new issue, after replace everything my car won't start :(. I got oil check and battery check on my instrument panel, I think I didn't set the timing right, do you think the timing can make my engine won't start ? thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #11
ok, it was the timing that was keeping my engine from starting...I have another question. I've installed nippon racing stage 2 camshaft, do I have to install a fuel pressure regulator ? If I do so, will it get me more HP or it will just get the right power from my camshaft ? Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I downgraded to OEM camshaft but now my car seem like getting an idle problem. when I pull the accelerator cable, it don't raise the engine, it low it down. So I've tried to set the idle right by the throttle and the accelerator cable. I've checked the valve clearance by 2 time. Oh there is a slight problem. I accidently broken the exhaust side lug. The one next to the distributor, the tallest that retaining the ccamshaft bearing. Is it possible that my engine got problem from this issue or it's coming from another thing? Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter #14
holly crap, I found what caused my idle issue, it was the distributor that was too set too forward
 

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Discussion Starter #16
How's it running now?
It run bizar :(, the only thing that changed from before I touch l my engine is that when I accelerate the engine don't respond quickly, I have to hit the pedal a moment and wait till it get to 3000-4000 RPM then the power come... The idleing is good set, the distributor is ok. This is the only thing I found changed. I plan to clean my injector and maybe check fuel pressure and fuel pump if it still running like this. WHat do you think ? THank you everybody
 

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Discussion Starter #18
hello, can anybody tell me what is the part number of the seal sitting on the end of the exhaust camshaft on the distributor side ? I think mine is worn, I need to replace it, there is a little leak coming from this seal. Thank you all

 

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I don't know if they make that seal or not aftermarket but I do know you WILL need to remove valve cover and the cam cap at that end to remove it. I tried EVERYTHING to get it out without taking the Valve cover and cam cap off but got nowhere. I would probably try taking it out, cleaning the rubber and the mounting surface, install with a little RTV around the seal and you should be ok.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I don't know if they make that seal or not aftermarket but I do know you WILL need to remove valve cover and the cam cap at that end to remove it. I tried EVERYTHING to get it out without taking the Valve cover and cam cap off but got nowhere. I would probably try taking it out, cleaning the rubber and the mounting surface, install with a little RTV around the seal and you should be ok.
do you put sealant on the head cylinder or over the seal ?
 
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