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Discussion Starter #1
I have a d15b that I just bought a beer rev limiter for. The directions are in Chinese and I can’t read how to install it. It’s a 1990 crx
 

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B-series Destroyer
4g 4d civic
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913 Posts
Which D15B are you running? vtec non-vtec vtec-e?
or a D15B8 or a D15B2

What ecu are you running?
 

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\/Your Mom Was Here\/
Vibe GT
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4,832 Posts
OBD0 pin outs are on this one... Use HO1, It's for the EF chassis with MPFI engines. They don't list all engines/ecus but the pinouts should be the same for EF chassis with MPFI.

Been through this before, trust me. Take a look at a previous entry, searching can yield results like I found.

Bee R you say, funny how my name is BeeR :3dtard:

Anyways down to business.

Here is a guide but the pics are down :(
http://www.d-series.org/forums/engine-management/115876-bee-r-rev-limiter-install.html

This one is installed in a Nissan but helps some with the pics.
Bee-R Rev limiter fitting guide

I am posting the youtube video just to reference where I am getting my pic from for the wiring

Use the H01 diagram it looks like (couldn't find a pic online)



Bee r rev limiter proper honda installation - YouTube


And another pic.
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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what Im confused about, is the dude in the video showed you what wires to use from the harness before it got to the ecu side of the conversion harness......pretty sure the oem side is the obd0 side, hence the need for the obd1 conversion....




also, people have jobs and other things to do, not everybody will be here all the time. you don't need to make multiple threads about the same issue, nor do you need to spam your own post asking for help.


 

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\/Your Mom Was Here\/
Vibe GT
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4,832 Posts
what Im confused about, is the dude in the video showed you what wires to use from the harness before it got to the ecu side of the conversion harness......pretty sure the oem side is the obd0 side, hence the need for the obd1 conversion....
He is using a conversion harness for obd2 to obd1.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I looked at the diagram and the wire it says I need to put the yellow and green on is a injector wire. Doesn’t work. Either the directions r wrong or I’m stupid.
 

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\/Your Mom Was Here\/
Vibe GT
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4,832 Posts
The green and yellow wire for the Bee R will probably be used on the b15-b17 pins, they are the 2 ignition controls on the ECU.

BLACK AND RED WIRE
Find a suitable ground and power source. If you can't do this, stop now, get someone else to install it. You can take ignition power off the ECU at pin A25 like they suggest, but I chose not to mess with my ECU harness more than I had to.

WHITE WIRE
When you ground this wire, the Rev2 function is triggered. The best choices are either the hand brake or the clutch. For the hand brake, remove the trim around your shifter and tap into the GRY wire near the hand brake. For the clutch, tap into the BLU-BLK wire on your clutch switch.

GREEN AND YELLOW WIRE
Find pin A22 on the ECU harness and cut it, yes cut it, then properly insulate the wire ends. Find pin A21 on the ECU harness and cut it, then crimp on male and female bullet connectors. Both those wires should be RED-GRN.

Take your green wire from the Bee*R unit and crimp on a bullet connector, then connect it to the harness side of the A21 wire. Take your yellow wire from the Bee*R unit and crimp on a bullet connector, then connect it to the ECU side of the A21 wire.
This is all for obd1 but the A21 and A22 are ignition controls on that ECU. They will be the B15 and B17 on yours.
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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He is using a conversion harness for obd2 to obd1.
but wasn't the car an 88-91 civic/crx of some sort? thought he was still using the oem harness minus the jumper....
 
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