[beater90]

Hey everyone, I havn't posted anything on the d for a while, kinda lost touch after I did my z6 swap in my beater ef. Anyways, that 'free' engine had about 250k on it when i put it in, and with the 8.8lb act flywheel that I installed, well, 6000 miles later I have a nasty rod knock, sooooo, I'm gonna yank it and do a mild all motor build.
Here's what I'm thinkin
75.5mm pm6 pistons
.020 mill on the z6 head
stock z6 head gasket (did the comp calc and come up with around 10.5:1 cr)
might attempt a mild pnp, but I'll practice first on an old d15b1 head...lol
crower stage2 cam with springs and ti retainers
either edelbrock performer x or skunk2 intake manifold
62mm throttle body

rebuild head with new kms valves and three angle valve job, new guides, stem seals, ect..

balance crank/polish
shot peen stock z6 rods
aem adjustable cam gear
aem fpr
255 fuel pump
stock z6 injectors
already have a dc header, gonna run that I guess
need suggestions on what to run to tune this setup?
I've posted some pics of the tear down, I'll post more as I progress...

these rod bearings are my knock culprits...lol

 

[xotic_crx]

This is very similar to my build. Only thing i'd suggest is not so big of a TB. Id stay stock or mayne a 58mm, 60 at the very most. You don't want to match up the sizes, you need a step to create something for the air to reverberate off of, or something like that.

EDIT: Oh, and I wouldn't go trying to P&P the head unless you really know where and how to do it to improve flow, its easy to mess one up unless you've had a lot of experience. Oh, and again, you don't want to port match pretty much anything on the intake side of things

 

[beater90]

why do you think it's bad to port match the intake side of the head? Just curious cuz I've read so many people say TO do it to improve flow numbers.
What is your whp goal with your build?
As far as port and polishing the head, I'm not too worried about it, since I have a couple of junker d15b1's lying around, they'll be practice first, and although I've never attmepted it myself, I've researched and read and will continue to research more until I actually decide to do it on my z6 head. And if I mess it up, well, z6 heads can be found fairly cheap still...lol

 

[xotic_crx]

Here are my two links that support what I told you, read liveforphysics's posts, he knows what he's talking about, one for the TB and one about port matching. No joke, if that guy says it, you better go by it, haha.

As for my goals, i'd be satisfied with 140 whp, but some think i might hit a little more than that.

And for the P&P on the head, you have to know the right spots to massage and how much to do it. Yes, it's as sensual as it sounds, hah, just ask :mikej: lol.

 

[beater90]

yeah, I'd be happy with 140whp. After reading those links, I think I'll just stick with a three angle valve job/rebuild with springs and ti retainers/cam. I just found out today that my brother in law knows the owner of 10000rpm out here in lancaster, says he makes custom tb and my bro can get me one cheap, he just wanted to know what size I wanted, so maybe I'll go for the 58mm....

 

[greasemonkey89]

yeah, I'd be happy with 140whp. After reading those links, I think I'll just stick with a three angle valve job/rebuild with springs and ti retainers/cam. I just found out today that my brother in law knows the owner of 10000rpm out here in lancaster, says he makes custom tb and my bro can get me one cheap, he just wanted to know what size I wanted, so maybe I'll go for the 58mm....

just get a b-series tb like a b16 one its already at 58mm. and you dont need the 255 fuel pump, and get a b&m fpr instead its cheaper and gets the job done.

 

[beater90]

I read somewhere on here if you go with the 255 fuel pump and aftermarket fpr, but use the stock z6 injectors, it increases fuel atomization...
rex, how much do b16 tb's go for? My bro says he can get me the custom tb from 10000rpm for 180 bucks...
Back to the discussion of intake porting and head porting, has anyone in here used the extrude hone process with any good results and dyno numbers?

 

[vincegoehn]

i coulda sworn ive seen b16 tb's go for like 60-80 bucks. that's 100 bucks to use on something else and if you end up thinking the 58 is too big you can still go back to your 56

 

[xotic_crx]

i coulda sworn ive seen b16 tb's go for like 60-80 bucks. that's 100 bucks to use on something else and if you end up thinking the 58 is too big you can still go back to your 56

Oh yea, they're way cheaper than 180. Go to the junkyards, probably get one for like $20, heck i'm picking one up for free from abuddy to try. You could also get an obd0 LS tb, they're 58. I think the obd0 b series are the ones with 58mm, the obd1 b16's have a 60.

The way i look at it, a 58 would be a great match for the Edlebrock b/c it gives a 4mm step between the tb and mani, which liveforphysics mentioned is a good setup. A 56 would still probably give enough cfm for your setup.

 

[vincegoehn]

The way i look at it, a 58 would be a great match for the Edlebrock b/c it gives a 4mm step between the tb and mani, which liveforphysics mentioned is a good setup. A 56 would still probably give enough cfm for your setup.

yeah, unless you put a lot of work into the engine i doubt anything larger than a 58mm will do you any good. id really like to see how well the edlebrock IM does with a 58mm tb on a 140whp set up

 

[beater90]

This isn't anything to do with my all motor build currently underway, but I figured while I have the engine out, I might as well do the bodywork and paint, so here's a few pics of the progress...

This is after I ground out most of the old bondo that somebody tried to put on...lol

This is the new fender flare I had to make and spot weld into place since the old one was crap

First application of bondo to smooth in the new flare and rebuild the lip

Second application, it's starting to look like factory, may need a couple more applications to be just right, then prime and spot putty....

 

[beater90]

Just thought people might want to see what started it all, here's my original swap/build from last year, ahhh, memories...
http://www.d-series.org/forums/showthread.php?t=66192

 

[rookie111]

i have 2500 miles on a similar build and i am very happy with it.
i have a 59300 comp cam =noise and great performance.
i need to get a better tune asap.

 

[xotic_crx]

yeah, unless you put a lot of work into the engine i doubt anything larger than a 58mm will do you any good. id really like to see how well the edlebrock IM does with a 58mm tb on a 140whp set up

I'll let ya know when i get to the dyno...even a 60mm if i can source one for cheap/free...

BTW beater, hows the build coming? I see where you started, so is this the same car or not, i didn't really read just looked at the pics, i'm being lazy, haha. I haven't gotten to work on mine since i tore down the new motor to put in the ARP rod bolts, i was supposed to have finished the swap last w/e but i spent it with the stomach flu, then snow hit us (a weird thing for us in LA in march), so i'm kinda behind.

 

[beater90]

I'm still researching parts and not decided if I want to go 10.5 : 1 or 12:1 cr, cuz gas in cali sucks(91 octane) and this will be a dd. I just got the cash from a kitchen install I'm doing, so I have around 2k to play with for now. I have to find a reliable machine shop around here in the antelope valley/socal that I can trust and who knows d series builds... anybody know of any? But in the meantime, I'm knockin out the body work/interior, and I'll finally throw on those teg rear discs and ta's I bought last year...lol
Yes xotic, this is the same beater pos.....lol

 

[greasemonkey89]

I'm still researching parts and not decided if I want to go 10.5 : 1 or 12:1 cr, cuz gas in cali sucks(91 octane) and this will be a dd. I just got the cash from a kitchen install I'm doing, so I have around 2k to play with for now. I have to find a reliable machine shop around here in the antelope valley/socal that I can trust and who knows d series builds... anybody know of any? But in the meantime, I'm knockin out the body work/interior, and I'll finally throw on those teg rear discs and ta's I bought last year...lol
Yes xotic, this is the same beater pos.....lol

i thought adams is good is what i found out from most of the people i asked.

 

[beater90]

let me tell you what I heard about adams, and it comes from a good source. The original owner, John Mears, who doesn't own it anymore cuz he left...lol Well anyway, my bro has a car club, the lordsmen, and John was a member, so they were pretty tight, but since he left, my bro says a few of his buddies had stuff done at adams, and it came back messed up, so I don't think I will be going there afterall, sorry to mention them to you in the first place rex. I'm still looking for a good shop, anybody know of a really good reputable shop in the socal area who really knows d series builds?

 

[greasemonkey89]

the only source i know of is you no already but it isnt very cheap since they do quality stuff. and the other one i know is in fresno and thats cheap and i know they do good stuff its just the trip.

 

[beater90]

I'm already thinkin I might have to take a road trip to get this crap done right...dammit

 

[greasemonkey89]

I'm already thinkin I might have to take a road trip to get this crap done right...dammit

i posted a thread on our local gay ass forum out here in lancaster and so far people say they do good work i guess im going there regardless and try it out its not like the blocks are expensive to come by but best be known i will kick some ass if they fuck my shit up.

take a look man

http://www.av-imports.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=2182&st=0&gopid=26697&#entry26697