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CRX baby
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Discussion Starter #1
im new to the forum/ thread posting but i needi have a question about the zc/y8 mini me swap ? i want to do a complete rebuild on both the head and block! my question is i was considring upgrading to the zex cam, with the zex springs, new valves etc.. but i was wondering when rebuilding thye block if using new stock rods n pistons will be ok, or should i upgrade to eagle rods and sum aftermarket pistons ?
also any opinion on "zex" equipment would be great ???
 

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セックス大好&#
'93 240sex
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CRX baby
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Discussion Starter #5
I have another question ? Would upgrading the cam shaft even be a good idea in a N/A mini me ? I really wana get the every bit of power I can out of this rebuild n I dnt care how long or how much ( within reason anyway ) it takes but I dnt want turbo at all just a powerful mini me !
 

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'93 240sex
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I have another question ? Would upgrading the cam shaft even be a good idea in a N/A mini me ? I really wana get the every bit of power I can out of this rebuild n I dnt care how long or how much ( within reason anyway ) it takes but I dnt want turbo at all just a powerful mini me !
The cam is where most of the hp. After you swap the head, and let the motor breathe, the pistons and cam will get just as much if not more whp.:bigok:
 

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ej1
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Don't get new stock rods unless you want to go over 220 whp with nos, and pistons unless you're upgrading the compression with p29's, or have to up grade the bore. You might want to think about cryo treating you're stock rods and pistons for 300 whp and you're compression would still be good for pump. Some people want to get new stock pistons because their concerned about the ring groove to ring clearance being too large on worn pistons but what ever. My truck shop has rebuild many an engine reusing the old pistons ghetto style. You'll have to considder if it's reasonable to run high octane all the time if you go p29's, or e85 and if you went forged if it would be worth it to go through the whole bottle in one or two passes to take full advantage of their power potential. Since you're running springs,109500 ftmfw. Zex cams pull hard on a good tune but they're soft, expect three good years out of them. Cryo treating should extend the life and a proper cam brake in. Brake in you're engine with the stock cam. My crower stg2 is allready showing wear with less than 10k on it with poor oil.
 

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CRX baby
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Discussion Starter #8
So would let's say doing a full port n polish job n upgrading the cam, spring, valves, etc ... Be worth doin if Im not guna turbo ? To be honest the head I have isn't dvdn that bad of shape ..? But I wanted the experience of doin it n I figured y not go all out ? And let's say I was guna bore n upgrade to oversized pistons would that also be worth doin if I'm not guna turbo/nos ? I want a powerful mini me but I also want it to be a fun daily driver !
 

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ej1
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Oh yah, the y8 heads need some clean up around the seats. The intake ports have to stay offset or you'll go through and the port roof isn't very thick. N/A porting is totally worth it to support the bigger cam and compression, but read through the threads on hear for sure about it.

If you decide to hawg it out with out a flow bench try to keep them all the same size as much as possible and don't get over zellous and risk going through. The stock port walls aren't much more than a quarter inch thick or less to begin with. Leave the short bend radius on the port floor alone and make sure the intake ports are slightly larger than the itm outlet to prevent reversion. Don't kill you're valve margin. You can go smoother on the intakes with fuel injection than carbed engines. Don't run the carbide dry.

As for cryo treating you'll have to look for a local place in so cal or send them out to south carolina for example, our local place in the midwest said $65 for b18 pistons and rods, they go by weight. The cost would have to cheaper than forged but for a lower horse power goal, and I'd get the stock head bolts done or run head studs to prevent head lift. If you say with the jdm shoc zc pistons you might want to get some milling or decking to get it up to 11-11.5:1 compression on pump.
Since you're all motor you might want tighter ptwc and it will last longer but It depends on you're budget and how far out the bore is.
 

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CRX baby
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Discussion Starter #11
Wat I got is a jdm sohc zc complete motor minus dizzy, I have a stock y8 head , and a stock z6 head, I jus got arp head studs, a y8 gasket kit, y8 water pump n timing belt, Aem cam gear, fuel rail, and a heater hose kit! I was planning on slamming it all together but then I had the urge to do more n go all out on this build ! I dnt care really how long it take I just want to make it the best it can be ! My theory was fully rebuild the top end n bottom end put it together n hope for sum power but from wat I've learned it's not that simple !
From wat I understand using the current stock rods, cryogenic treated wil hold up fine, i was considering sleeving n boring out the bottom end for oversized piston! With doin that
If I did that would the treated rods still be strong enough ?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
This is probly a burnt out question but were can I get a transmission rebuild kit for a sohc si cable tranny ? I want to add the obx LSD as well and found sum info on that but dnt no were to get parts to rebuild the tranny ?
 

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ej1
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distrb;1735708 From wat I understand using the current stock rods said:
Sleeving is a matter of preference when the stock sleeves hold up to 600whp but If you can afford sleeving it's allways nice because they hold up to detonation. Cryo treating the stock rods are only good for 80-100 whp over their stock limit. If you want it to be all that it can be it comes down to: the octane level you can afford to live with determins how high to take the compression to, how safe is the tune. I don't think even c16 or 109 octane fuel is good for much over 15.5:1 compression. I'll have to ask my sales man at work what compression he runs in his 9 sec. BB chevy. Think of 10 horse power per compression point rise on d series not including bolt ons and head mods, you'll see where the all motor limit lies before nos. You don't want to go too big on you bore size like JGE with their 79mm bore for reliability but even sleeved I'm not sure how well it would hold up, plus custom head gasket prices are out ragious. I thought about doing an 81mm bore stock sleeved d series but it's only gotta 300mile life expetancy.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Dawm that was very educating ! I want to go big but I do want to ne able to fill upmy tank and drive everywhere I go ! So it's basically the higher the CR the higher octane leveli gota use !? Well maybe il jus slam stock together n go from there ....
 

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ej1
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LOL I think that's why so many go turbo because you can still get good numbers with out craisy fuel, but I run 95 octane all the time now from a local guy for better fuel quality but don't plan on running it much over 300 whp when I ever make it past the 250 whp level boosted.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Are turbo kits street legal ? For example pass smog with a turbo on n a proper tune ?
 

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ej1
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A couple are but they are high dollar. There's other ways around it for you guys. You might actually be able to talk to Mr. Jared Karagen, he is seriously hardcore. Also check HMT in their smog tune thread.
 

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I hope it's not against the rules for me to say this but he's over on turbod16.com and he's like a God.
 
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