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Well?
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
mods please feel free to sticky if you see fit

Im starting this thread because we just get way to many of the same threads about this part or that part. Im going to lay out basic info on what you want to start with in building your basic N/A D motor and what parts work and what dont.

Headers
- Unless you go with a high end like HyTech, Bisimoto or
SMSP your going to basically going to see the same gains no matter what brand. Ebay/DC headers are fine for a basic bolt on motor but once you get in depth with your build with headwork, high compression and a big cam you will want to modify your DC style header or go with one of the high end pieces.

Exhaust- This is where alot of people screw up they use the wrong exhaust for their setup.
For low end usable power for driving around town you will want to stick with a 2in. setup. This will help your low end power and make it more usable around town and such.

For a little more mid to upper power you want to use a 2 1/4in, or if you have raised your compression or upgraded your cam you also want to use something like this size

For top end power 2.5 is the next. If you have an automatic car or want to keep any kind of mid or low range power DO NOT get an exhaust this size. Now if your car is tuned for the exhaust go for 2.5

As for brands, any name brand company is a good choice. Ebay exhausts you may have fitment issues with and also the quality is usually not the same as a reputable company, really they are hit or miss. If you want something louder than an n1 style is what you want. This will give you the loudest sound and also probably the most rasp. Next would be a system that has the canister type muffler but also has a resonator that will quiet it down and take the edge off. Than comes your turbo muffler systems, they tend to be the quietest while still offering improved flow. Another option is custom made and than you can pick and choose your setup. This tends to be the most cost efficient

Air Intakes
There is plenty of debate over this as to which is better. ill lay out the options and the benefits/downfalls of each
Cold Air- This is going to make the most usable power of the different air intakes. 2.5 is all that you need to do. There are no gains from anything over that. I can personally attest that it has a very decent advantage over a short ram. I gained .3 in the quarter mile switching to a Cold Air from a short ram. The downfall is the chance of hydro lock and it may take longer to heat the engine up on cold days.

Short Ram- This intake will show the most power on the dyno however as soon as the under hood temps rise, you will see a drop in power. The advantage to this intake is its price, ease of install and the fact there is no chance of hurting your engine. The "whale penis" intakes are classified as short ram also but they have a power level/curve more along the lines of the true cold air.

Ice Box style- This intake is a little different than the two above. It looks like a stock intake but almost is like a ram air. There also is the Mugen intake which is baller status but you gotta pay for it too. You also can do a DIY which ill be doing a write up on shortly

Brand wise any will do just fine really alls you pay for is the name. Bent tubing is bent tubing

Intake Manifolds
- Honda makes a pretty stout intake manifold and they rarely need to be upgraded. However if you do choose to upgrade these are the options.

Stock-This is your standard option as the factory piece can support alot of power both in N/A form and boosted form. Now if you hae a non-vtec motor the best thing to do is to upgrade to a Vtec manifold from either the Z6 or the Y8 motors.

Skunk 2- This is probably the best aftermarket manifold for the money. How ever there isn't much R&D into this piece. its basically a b-series plenum with D series runners. This manifold can actually loose power over a stock one on a bolt on/stock engine, as with any aftermarket piece. Now im sure i'll get opinions on this but this is mine based on research i've done.

Edelbrock- This manifold is probably the best manifold on the market. But for N/A motors its not the best choice unless you have the engine built for it. This is more of a boosted manifold.

Blox- This basically is a Skunk2 copy. While its a decent starting place for starting, the best thing to do is to cut open the plenum and blend the runners together much like you would do on a stock modified one. A decent manifold for the money

OBX- This is a junk manifold plain and simple. Your going to have fitment issues with things and the design is very poor. The only thing this manifold is good for is making ITB's.

Modded Stock- For the money this option can't be beat. What you need to do is cut open the plenum and do some work there. Here is a link to me doing a Z6
Porting a Stock manifold
 

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Well?
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10,814 Posts
Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Cams This thread is for basic N/A setups so im only going to cover basic cams.
Non-VtecIf your running a B7, your first choice is the D16A6 cam obv with a D16Y7/Y8 cam gear. Next would be your re-grinds from either Exospeed SR909 or Bisi Level 1&2 to name a few. As of now the only new core cams are old Crane cams if you can find them. For the D16Y7 you are only limited to re-grinds.
VtecAgain you can go with a re-grind from exospeed SV909 or bisimoto level 1&2. However bisi is now doing fresh billet cores. There also is the Zex/Comp 59100/59300 for the z6 and 105100/105300 for the Y8 and the crower stg.1&2. All of these are good choices to use but you must build your engine around them.
Throttle Boddies For our little D motor you dont need any more than your stock TB with basic bolt ons. Now if you don wanna upgrade, only go to a B-Series 60mm, you dont need anymore than that. If you go bigger you can kill your low end power and hurt overall performance
Misc. This is for any other little things.
Msd igniton- Not wroth it. Honda OE ignition is proven to over 400hp so there is no need to waste your money on it.
TB spacers dont work, dont bother
NGK/OEM plug wires are really the only wires worth using, not the Knology Hotwires or crap like that
Stock injectors are fine unless its a fully built motor with high compression and such
Cam gears dont add HP. They allow you to adjust your cam timing to get teh most power. Only get one if your dyno tuning


The most important thing you can do is a GOOD Tune, not some VAFC/Piggy back thing unless thats all you are able to do.
Any thing anyone would like added, please let me know and ill add it. Thanks for read. This basically is spoon feeding basic info that is always asked
 

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formerly allnaturalrex
1989 honda crx si
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isnt all this stuff already a sticky i mean dont get me wrong its some good stuff lets just see if it works.
 

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Well?
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Discussion Starter #4
theres a building a powerful motor and stuff but i havent really found anything layed out like this with everything there.
 

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Registered
95 integra
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it maybe a sticky already not sure but rep 4 you anyways good info.
 

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1993 Cobra
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This is great and accurate info...i thought the zex cams were 59300's though. :confused: And even though the title of the thread points out the obvious, you know n00bs wont read it because they think they're question is different than everybody elses. :uh:

Rep to you my good sir for taking the time to type it up. :biggrin:
 
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Friend of the D
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Rep for trying! You've cover the basics, if you can only get the people who need to read it, to actually do so.


Headers
- Unless you go with a high end like HyTech, Bisimoto or
SMSP your going to basically going to see the same gains no matter what brand. Ebay/DC headers are fine for a basic bolt on motor but once you get in depth with your build with headwork, high compression and a big cam you will want to modify your DC style header or go with one of the high end pieces.
I'm guessing you are talking about making it a true 2 1/4" collector to match your exhaust? What about a DC one-piece 4-1 over the generic 4-2-1 headers? Top end gains vs. bottom end losses?

How bad will a high flow cat hurt things and should it be the same diameter as your exhaust? (2 1/4" etc.... I know I have to have one!)

i thought the zex cams were 59300's though. :confused: i
They are. No biggy. Let's not forget there's also the 59500 and 105500 for the guys who have done the head work, higher CR, etc to support them.
 

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Lifes short, drive fast!
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headers huh... so how much whp should i expect from a 2 header setup? :tt2:
 

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Well?
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10,814 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
This is great and accurate info...i thought the zex cams were 59300's though. :confused: And even though the title of the thread points out the obvious, you know n00bs wont read it because they think they're question is different than everybody elses. :uh:

Rep to you my good sir for taking the time to type it up. :biggrin:
ya thats what i meant. when i get typing fast i get my shit backwards lol ill fix it
Rep for trying! You've cover the basics, if you can only get the people who need to read it, to actually do so.



I'm guessing you are talking about making it a true 2 1/4" collector to match your exhaust? What about a DC one-piece 4-1 over the generic 4-2-1 headers? Top end gains vs. bottom end losses?Yes i meant the modified collector. The 4-2-1vs 4-1 basically is an even trade off not really one giving a huge advantage to the other

How bad will a high flow cat hurt things and should it be the same diameter as your exhaust? (2 1/4" etc.... I know I have to have one!)
Not really at all for an N/A motor i personally run one just becasue it helps keep everything hush hush and keeps the hippies happy


They are. No biggy. Let's not forget there's also the 59500 and 105500 for the guys who have done the head work, higher CR, etc to support them.
I didnt include them simply because this was intended for basic average joe builds not so much race builds
headers huh... so how much whp should i expect from a 2 header setup? :tt2:
i meant headers as a plural meaning different brands i know our car only has one header:001_icon16:
 

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Friend of the D
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i meant headers as a plural meaning different brands i know our car only has one header:001_icon16:
I'm with 1.5, although I have to get used to the idea of having a header. Most every car I've ever lusted after has always required headers, so that's where my brain is at sometimes.

I'm guessing you are talking about making it a true 2 1/4" collector to match your exhaust? What about a DC one-piece 4-1 over the generic 4-2-1 headers? Top end gains vs. bottom end losses? Yes i meant the modified collector. The 4-2-1vs 4-1 basically is an even trade off not really one giving a huge advantage to the other:
So it sounds like a generic 4-2-1 Ebay header really is the way to go, unless you are spending the big bucks.
 

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Well?
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Discussion Starter #13
Might want to add the y7/y8 cam gear option to the A6 cam blurb.

Good thread tho. Rep for you next chance i get.

*sigh* To the guy pointing out the "headers" thing, he also said "cams" but if you understood the context you would know what he meant.
ya i guess i should spoon feed them a tad more lol o well
 

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1993 Cobra
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Something about spark plugs:

Cold vs Hot...whats the difference anyway?

Cold plugs- Cold plugs are generally used for high compression motors, stock motors, turbo applications running high boost and nitrous. Also using colder plugs will aid in your highway mile per gallon consumption. Higher compression engines need more fuel to go with all the air they are pumping, resulting in higher cylinder pressures which inturn converts to heat. Therefore, the extra heat will cause detonation and poissibly burn the plugs. Using a colder plug doesnt completely burn all of the fuel in the mix, which causes a cooling affect to the cylinder, valves and plugs.

Hot plugs- Hot plugs are pretty much the opposite. They burn much hotter, resulting in a complete burn of all the fuel in the mix more suited for city driving mpg's....highway mpg's may go down slightly. This causes higher cylinder temps as well as heating the exhaust valves. While sometimes using hotter plugs can give more power in some cases, others might hurt the motor by causing it to detonate which simply means that the fuel ignites even before the spark plugs fire. This is a result of either the plugs still remaining soo hot that the atomized fuel hits the extremely hot plug and ignites or swirls around the cylinder and hits the very hot exhaust valve.

Choosing the right plugs for your application can make or break your power. Being able to read your plugs for things like too rich or too lean, burning oil or steaming them with coolant will greatly help you in tuning.

*Something might be wrong here, this is just from the top of my head. This is not all of the facts about plugs but you get the point. Add or subtract info as needed. :)
 

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might just be me, but it seemed as you missed TB sizes-pro's and con's of "upgrading", 4-2-1 vs. 4-1 header , and you skipped my favorite intake(MUGEN!/comptech style....or mugen inspired homemade) and my favorite muffler(MUGEN!/knockoff twinloops) and what about the bisi 1.2 i keep hearing about?....im sure it'd be "better" than a bisi 1 and not "as good" as the 2, but whats the dif guys?
 

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Well?
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Discussion Starter #17
might just be me, but it seemed as you missed TB sizes-pro's and con's of "upgrading", 4-2-1 vs. 4-1 header , and you skipped my favorite intake(MUGEN!/comptech style....or mugen inspired homemade) and my favorite muffler(MUGEN!/knockoff twinloops) and what about the bisi 1.2 i keep hearing about?....im sure it'd be "better" than a bisi 1 and not "as good" as the 2, but whats the dif guys?
well a little down i covered the 4-2-1 topic. Ill add the TB good point about that. And the 1.2 is a turbo cam so there is no need to cover it. As for the intake i guess i could add them as i have a homemade intake myself
 

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my name says Guest, but Im really a MEMBER
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no offensive, but most of this is hear say info that's been floating around this website for years. I'm not saying all of it is or isn't true. but are you writing this from your own personal experience of using and dynoing these parts. or seeing dyno pulls first hand or unbias dyno sheets on the net.

i don't see any calculations of cfm or something that a person would base there decisions on all this stuff just butt dyno results. n/a is weird to me cause you hear people talk about putting this cam or that cam or port work that might or might not pickup power. I would only put shit in my car (if and when I was n/a) that's guaranteed to make power like increasing displacement, compression, bigger cam (based on research for my setup). raise the rpm's if the torque isn't falling off enough to not make power.
 

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Well?
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Discussion Starter #19
no offensive, but most of this is hear say info that's been floating around this website for years. I'm not saying all of it is or isn't true. but are you writing this from your own personal experience of using and dynoing these parts. or seeing dyno pulls first hand or unbias dyno sheets on the net.

i don't see any calculations of cfm or something that a person would base there decisions on all this stuff just butt dyno results. n/a is weird to me cause you hear people talk about putting this cam or that cam or port work that might or might not pickup power. I would only put shit in my car (if and when I was n/a) that's guaranteed to make power like increasing displacement, compression, bigger cam (based on research for my setup). raise the rpm's if the torque isn't falling off enough to not make power.
no i based it off of research ive done that other people have tried and found. Most of it has been proven by one person or another either on this site or other honda sites out there. I have personal experience with the CAI and SRI and with the TB size hurting power. This all may be on the site already but this puts it out front for the n00bs so they dont have to go make a thread about it sine they dont search
 

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my name says Guest, but Im really a MEMBER
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no i based it off of research ive done that other people have tried and found. Most of it has been proven by one person or another either on this site or other honda sites out there. I have personal experience with the CAI and SRI and with the TB size hurting power. This all may be on the site already but this puts it out front for the n00bs so they dont have to go make a thread about it sine they dont search

I wouldn't say I've exactly seen anything that proves most of this info. some says something based on mediocre research or proof.

I've thrown a bunch of different parts at my car with different motor combinations. never REALLY felt any difference in power with different intakes, headers, TB's, cam gears. A delta cam on stock everything else made a huge noticeable gain with nothing else tuned. on a b2 w/ mpfi.
 
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