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ok so first things first.i am going to start my d16z6 build,eagle rods,vitaras,arps,fuel pump,etc.looking to make around 300whp,t3/t4 turbo kit.anyway. i was told tonight that i first off have to have the crank,pistons,rods balanced?and alot of machine work done.now boring out the block i can see to make sure your cylinders are true.but what machine work is needed?and i was always under the impression that eagle rods,vitara pistons were basically a" plug and play"kind of set up.are they not?do i have to get everything balanced?how many people here have/have not?so basically what is needed to be done to the d16z6 to make about 300hp and still be a safe set up?AND....will my stock d15b7(us) hold about 6-8psi until i finish this build up?since it looks like it will be costing me alot more than planned.so i would like to have alittle boost until i can finish.as you all can tell i am still trying to learn and figure out everything i can about boost since this is my first time for all of this.it seems like just when i think i have what has to be done set in my head somebody confusses the hell out of me with a bunch more crap.so all help/suggestions are great.thanks again guys...
 

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ok so first things first.i am going to start my d16z6 build,eagle rods,vitaras,arps,fuel pump,etc.looking to make around 300whp,t3/t4 turbo kit.anyway. i was told tonight that i first off have to have the crank,pistons,rods balanced?and alot of machine work done.now boring out the block i can see to make sure your cylinders are true.but what machine work is needed?and i was always under the impression that eagle rods,vitara pistons were basically a" plug and play"kind of set up.are they not?do i have to get everything balanced?how many people here have/have not?so basically what is needed to be done to the d16z6 to make about 300hp and still be a safe set up?AND....will my stock d15b7(us) hold about 6-8psi until i finish this build up?since it looks like it will be costing me alot more than planned.so i would like to have alittle boost until i can finish.as you all can tell i am still trying to learn and figure out everything i can about boost since this is my first time for all of this.it seems like just when i think i have what has to be done set in my head somebody confusses the hell out of me with a bunch more crap.so all help/suggestions are great.thanks again guys...
damn you ramble on for a simple question.
you dont have to get them balanced.
if you want them balanced, just buy a scale and dremel off just enough of the insides to balance them to the gram. id just throw them inn though
 

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i ran my stock d15 at 9psi for a month until my ssac mani cracked up...but it seemed to run fine...

every engine should be balanced..
an out of balanced engine by a few grams can result in unwanted load of many pounds on the wrong place

would everyone like me to go on?
 

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u will have to notch the bottom of the block for the rods to work. you shouldnt have to bore it unless you really want to. get it checked at a local builder to make sure that they cylinders are true. balancing everything isnt totally necessary.do the crank and that is good enough. the D15b7 should be fine at that much boost as long as the tune is good.


you will need some bigger injectors im not 100% sure 550's will work may need higher then that to get the job done. and find a good tuner. the tune is everything is a turbo build.
 

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every engine should be balanced..
an out of balanced engine by a few grams can result in unwanted load of many pounds on the wrong place

would everyone like me to go on?
i would like to read your explanation on the difference between a couple of thousandths between piston/rod weights as it relates to engine loading.

make sure you get all the math right per rpm :D.


edit: this is sarcasm. truly don't try to explain it. if someone has the need to balance to beyond the thousandths of a gram in a honda, this is not the site they should be on. since 90% of the people on the forum (and almost all the other honda forums) would not have a clue about how to effect it correctly. and how loading of the engine internals could help them or hurt them. yes, this includes you. ;)
 

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u will have to notch the bottom of the block for the rods to work. you shouldnt have to bore it unless you really want to. get it checked at a local builder to make sure that they cylinders are true. balancing everything isnt totally necessary.do the crank and that is good enough. the D15b7 should be fine at that much boost as long as the tune is good.


you will need some bigger injectors im not 100% sure 550's will work may need higher then that to get the job done. and find a good tuner. the tune is everything is a turbo build.
^^^^Yessir,if your gonna balance anything,do the crank. Unless your building an all our race car where tenths of a second matter you will be fine
 

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balancing the crank....equalizing the weights of the pistons & the big/small ends of the connecting rods,..

you can do this yourself by grinding the counterweights of the crank, sanding the rod caps & small end wristpin boss on a belt sander & removing weight from around the pin boss & under of the dome pistons..

with pistons...you have to make sure not to make the dome thinner then 0.200" or to weaken the pin boss.

on domestic engines...the weight of parts vary by alot of grams...somtimes more then 10grams...making the balancing crititcal..
but on are honda engines...the weight is usally less then a gram or 2..
 

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in a rich world every1 would get everything balanced in there motor but the crank is the main piece that you really need to worry about. if you get a good deal to have everything balanced do it. but it wont do you alot of gains just more of a drain on your wallet. my .02
 

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balancing the crank....equalizing the weights of the pistons & the big/small ends of the connecting rods,..

you can do this yourself by grinding the counterweights of the crank, sanding the rod caps & small end wristpin boss on a belt sander & removing weight from around the pin boss & under of the dome pistons..

with pistons...you have to make sure not to make the dome thinner then 0.200" or to weaken the pin boss.

on domestic engines...the weight of parts vary by alot of grams...somtimes more then 10grams...making the balancing crititcal..
but on are honda engines...the weight is usally less then a gram or 2..
edit: this is sarcasm. truly don't try to explain it. if someone has the need to balance to beyond the thousandths of a gram in a honda, this is not the site they should be on. since 90% of the people on the forum (and almost all the other honda forums) would not have a clue about how to effect it correctly. and how loading of the engine internals could help them or hurt them. yes, this includes you. ;)
you did not explain anything yet. but do stop please.
 

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no...but really,
I've always grown up knowing to balance your engine (crank) when you go to build it...
why wouldn't someone if you was planning on building a monster?

who here has built their bottom-end & has been boosting for quite some miles without having their crank balanced?
 

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ok so first things first.i am going to start my d16z6 build,eagle rods,vitaras,arps,fuel pump,etc.looking to make around 300whp,t3/t4 turbo kit.anyway. i was told tonight that i first off have to have the crank,pistons,rods balanced?and alot of machine work done.now boring out the block i can see to make sure your cylinders are true.but what machine work is needed?and i was always under the impression that eagle rods,vitara pistons were basically a" plug and play"kind of set up.are they not?do i have to get everything balanced?how many people here have/have not?so basically what is needed to be done to the d16z6 to make about 300hp and still be a safe set up?AND....will my stock d15b7(us) hold about 6-8psi until i finish this build up?since it looks like it will be costing me alot more than planned.so i would like to have alittle boost until i can finish.as you all can tell i am still trying to learn and figure out everything i can about boost since this is my first time for all of this.it seems like just when i think i have what has to be done set in my head somebody confusses the hell out of me with a bunch more crap.so all help/suggestions are great.thanks again guys...


ok.. the Eagles come Balanced from the factory, there should be a spec sheet on them w/ the weight, or be written on each rod... (w/in a few grams of each other... dont worry about it)
The Viteras don't since their cast. (i would have them balanced, if your serious)
Honda cranks are balanced from the factory

all balancing is... is making sure 1 part isnt drasticaly different from another part......... unless it's DYNAMICALLY BALANCING which the entire rotating assembly is assembled and balanced at the same time... but that BIG $$$, but i assure you, it's not needed on a 300-400 HP build
 

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no...but really,
I've always grown up knowing to balance your engine (crank) when you go to build it...
why wouldn't someone if you was planning on building a monster?

who here has built their bottom-end & has been boosting for quite some miles without having their crank balanced?
crank is pre-balanced from honda. no need to do it again, unless you took weight off. which unless your spinning an un-godly amount for a d-series, it not required. balancing your internals (rods and pistons) falls under the same principle.

built more engines then i can count on one hand. and never re-balanced when not increasing rpm range. mind you i did weigh everything to ensure they were not way out of balance.

The Viteras don't since their cast. (i would have them balanced, if your serious)
they are within less then a gram of each other (fjt's anyway). one member already weigh them.

all balancing is... is making sure 1 part isnt drasticaly different from another part......... unless it's DYNAMICALLY BALANCING which the entire rotating assembly is assembled and balanced at the same time... but that BIG $$$, but i assure you, it's not needed on a 300-400 HP build
agreed
 

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me, a few times. Care to explain how to balance your crank yourself?
Exactly what I was thinking... I would be weary of doing it myself even with proper equipment.


BTW, weight isn't the only factor, WHERE the weight is, is more important.
 
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