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1992 Civic CX HB
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Discussion Starter #1
I picked up an extra z6 block.. has a spun rod bearing.. the journal on the crank is bad. I'm trying to decide if its worth having the crank ground and use some oversize bearings. i've heard some opinions that having a honda crank ground doesnt work. but hearing from someone who heard it or read on some forum that someone who supposedly tried it, doesnt count in my book.... unless its from a trusted source. I'm hoping that there is someone here experienced with this.. either positive or negative..doesnt matter.. i just need proof.

thanks
 

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do you have pics? take it to a shop and have it checked. you can have a crank reground but only to a certain limit. dont wanna have to take too much off anyways. I'd have it inspected before I throw it away.
 

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If you do end up doing it, make sure the shop knows that our engines spin counter-clockwise. It needs to be spun that way while grinding/polishing.
 

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To me here its almost easier to just find another crank and polish compared to paying to have it cut then having it nitrated
 

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ej1
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I did it, in some other guys eagle vitara z6 rebuild. No nitriding but he wasn't high horse power. 11lbs on a tdo5h. 30/10 on a z6 crank.
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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Nitriding


Definition: A case hardening process that depends on the absorption of nitrogen into the steel. All machining, stress relieving, as well as hardening and tempering are normally carried out before nitriding. The parts are heated in a special container through which ammonia gas is allowed to pass. The ammonia splits into hydrogen and nitrogen and the nitrogen reacts with the steel penetrating the surface to form nitrides. Nitriding steels offer many advantages: a much higher surface hardness is obtainable when compared with case-hardening steels; they are extremely resistant to abrasion and have a high fatigue strength.


Matt, I needed to be said.
 

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1992 Civic CX HB
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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks Mista Bone,
and your opinions on having a crank ground and nitrided?
 

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To me here its almost easier to just find another crank and polish compared to paying to have it cut then having it nitrated
A good point. You might have better luck buying a used crank, instead of going through the whole process of grinding/nitriding/polishing. Or even a whole engine with a blown HG or something. Then you can have a bunch of extra parts. That's what I did. It's nice to be able to grab a bolt or a sensor in a pinch. Just my .02
 

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1992 Civic CX HB
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Discussion Starter #11
that might work in a big city.. out where i live, there just isnt enough available. i know almost all the local honda enthusiasts.. i even know some of the ones an hour away. short of driving 3-5 hours to get to Portland or Seattle.. there just isnt much out in south east washington. i keep an eye on craigslist.. even search honda tech marketplace from time to time.

some day my wife will agree to move back to portland area LOL.
 

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I have a spare z6 crank if u really need one all stock no spun bearings i know i dont have 65 posts yet to sale stuff but just letting u know
 

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If you can find a good used crank that would be a better choice. Should be cheaper than grinding, polishing or treating a crank. It's hard to find a good used crank/ bottom end in my location too but I'd go that route.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
badchkn13, where are you located?

i really would prefer to just find a good crank.. but i have 2 spun rod cranks in my garage.. hate to get rid of them..
 

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ej1
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hate to get rid of them..
A machinist tells me a soft grind crank should handle about 350whp. Another guy said, "quite a bit of horse power" That would be about half the power rating of our d-series cranks. I haven't tested that theory.

When I rebuilt my friends z6, his crank had to be ground 20/0 and he made the mistake of letting his friends drive it redlining it to 8000+ on a cold engine and on the free way. #3 journal was starved so I had to rebuild it again and had a different shop grind it the second time. That's when they went 30/10. The guy has a lower rev limit now and won't let friends drive it.

Another place has to send the cranks to Detroit for nitrating after grinding them if we want it done and then they have to repolish it back to specs when they get it back. The nitrating and repolishing cost an additional $150 or so.

If you check on a price on crank kits they usually cost a little more than getting the crank ground and getting bearings your self on ebay. But if your radius is messed up then you'd just have to get a crank kit any way and turn the bad crank in for a core because having the radius repaired is too costly as an extra service.

Crank kits usually advertise stock journal diameters but they wont tell you if it's hard welded, polished used stock, or what.

If you're lucky members on here post up a good crank for sale once or twice a year.
 
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