Honda D Series Forum banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
i've been attempting to diagnose this problem basically since i got the car (about a year and a half ago). i've never asked a question on a forum like this before, as i like working on cars, figuring stuff out myself and seeing the finished product when i'm done...but this has cost me too much money and too much time to mess around with any further.

about a month after i bought the car i noticed there was a slight engine shudder whenever i loaded\unloaded the engine. the previous owner did NOT take care of the car in any way, shape or form. it had 197xxx miles when i bought it (218xxx now) and i have no idea how it even made it that far. so why would i buy it you say? 1. i love hondas 2. i love working on hondas

now this problem has developed from a slight shudder to a full on bucking whenever the load on the motor is changed. my first thought was, "must be bad motor mounts", so i replaced all 5 mounts and afterwards, it was only very minutely better. since the mounts were brand new i started looking elsewhere for the source. since buying\installing a new transmission isn't feasible for me (not enough money\time, need the car for work) i moved on to the driveline itself, figuring that maybe the axles were so worn there was some play in the CV joint itself or maybe the splines were just beat up. replaced both of the axles and again, slight improvement, but it still shudders like a mofo.

so now i'm here, asking everyone this question on this forum. there are only 2 things that i can think would still be causing this.

1. i didn't buy OEM or hasport mounts, i bought some cheap brand of mounts by the name of Roca. no idea what quality of parts they make, but all the mounts seemed to be pretty close to OEM quality (design was the same, stiffness of the rubber was comparable). i suppose its possible that i just cheaped out where i shouldn't have, and that the mounts just aren't holding the engine in place like it should. but i don't think this is the problem, as after i replaced them i feel like i would've at least had a decent improvement instead of a barely noticeable one.

2. the only other thing that comes to mind is maybe the bolts that go through the middle of the mounts themselves are extremely badly worn, or the wrong size. the reason i think this is because when i change the throttle from lets say 20% to 60%, there's almost no shudder. even 10%-100% there's only minor shudder. but going from 0%-10 20 or any % makes the whole car buck like i'm new to driving stick. then when i come from any throttle input to no throttle input, you can feel the engine slapping back to the other side as the load changes direction. unfortunately i didn't do the mounts myself (i work 3pm-2am and that makes it very difficult to do any work to my car at all, let alone replace 5 mounts) but had an experienced mechanic friend do them in his shop, so i don't even know if the bolts were the correct size or if they were worn, and when i asked him he couldn't recall.

i'm open to all suggestions and i deeply appreciate any feedback you guys can give me that would help alleviate my problems. i love driving my civic almost more than sex (almost) but this problem has completely destroyed my wanting to drive any more than the 10 minutes it takes to get to work, as not only is it a huge annoyance, but i feel like the longer i let this go on, the more damage i'm doing to whatever the hell it is that's causing the problem.

thanks again! Sincerely, that guy who supposedly killed president kennedy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
Hey bud,
I had the same problem in a 2003 mazda 323. I did almost everything you have done only to find a small crack in the intake pipe between the MAF and TB on the accordion bend. Unmetered air was getting in and only noticeable when at light throttle changes when the ecu was in closed loop. It would try to keep adjusting fuel to match the o2 sensor reading lean, then the engine would buck, forcing closed the accordion hole and then it was running too rich. Never ending story in traffic!!!
 

·
Registered
Civic Sedan
Joined
·
7 Posts
I had the same issue with mine. Replaced motor mounts, replaced axles, and did the entire suspension. it came down to an electrical issue, which was robbing the ignition system of energy. Once i fixed the electrical, i love driving my civic again.
Best of luck on resolving your issue.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
No check engine light. It developed a lean and rich code after about 6 months but was resolved with a new downstream o2 sensor. What exactly was the problem with your electrics in your car ravnknght?
 

·
Registered
Really?
Joined
·
47 Posts
i had the same issue it was solved because i had a vacuum leak so i replaced all the vac hoses and walah fixed......hope this helps my friend
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
My lights dim sometimes when it returns to idle, and I haven't done a tune up in awhile, so maybe I'll give that a shot. Although on my way to lunch today I held the throttle constant at 2k and slowly let the clutch in and out and you can hear something knocking around, but I'm still inclined to say it's not the mounts or axles. I'm just so stumped by this...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Bump. I'm not going to be able to mess around with it until Saturday so I'm going to get all the advice I can before I start ripping shit apart :p
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top