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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
D15b JDM cam in y8 head?? help...

ok so i did a mini me swap yesterday. I have a y7 block, y8 head, with the D15b jdm cam. The heads milled over .030... I retarded the timing 3* degrees. i didnt do the 2 wire iacv yet so the car has a funny idle... But it still sounds like its missing when i take it for a ride, any ideals???
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Not sure if it is... I compared it with the y8 cam and they looked identicle... So i dont now dude i got it from has all kinds of d series stuff layin around. he said it would work and be fine. I can here the vtec kick in a lil bit when i get on it.
 

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why did you retard the timing 3*? and you need to find out what cam you got in order to properly set the timing. if you have the y8 cam put that in and set the timing to zero and ign to 16* btdc and see how it runs. yes your timing will be off a little with the head mill probably about a degree or so not enough to cry over. once you get it runnung right then make minor cam timing adjustments to get the power were you like it but anytime you make a cam adjustment you got to reset the ign timing
 

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B2 cam (non-vtec) in a Y8 head (vtec) on a y7 bottom end.......





It will NEVER run right. 1. That B2 cam is a 1.5L non-vtec, 2. its lobes are spaced differently than a vtec cam. 3. Why dont you have the y8 cam that comes with a y8 head?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
well the y8 cam is broken off on the dizzy side... The b2 cam works (if that is what it is)... Ima change the intake many today and see how it runs with the two wire iacv hooked up... the cam looks just like the y8 cam, i compared it to my y7 non vtec cam and it wasnt even close... ima go and do that and i will get the head code off the head i got it outta...
 

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ok, thats more like it. the cam will be off by 4.75*, get an aftermarket cam gear and set it to roughly 4.5* either advanced or retarded (which ever you choose). That will make it "0" degrees or TDC
 

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Discussion Starter #13
ok, thats more like it. the cam will be off by 4.75*, get an aftermarket cam gear and set it to roughly 4.5* either advanced or retarded (which ever you choose). That will make it "0" degrees or TDC
Yes sorry for the confusin...

So your talkin about the "half tooth" dilema??? Hmmm... I do have an adjustable y8 cam gear.

so it doesnt matter if you retard or advance the cam timing???

how about the .030 i got milled off the head will i have to adjust it for that also??? I read for every .012 milled a 1* retard is needed??

So i would have to retard the timing say 2.5* for the milling??? and another 4.75* retard or advance for the d15b jdm cam???

So if i retard the cam gear i would go to say like 7.25* retard on the cam??? Or say i advance it, would it be at 2.25* to compensate for the milling???

thanks again for the help
 

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Yes sorry for the confusin...

So your talkin about the "half tooth" dilema??? Hmmm... I do have an adjustable y8 cam gear.

so it doesnt matter if you retard or advance the cam timing???

how about the .030 i got milled off the head will i have to adjust it for that also??? I read for every .012 milled a 1* retard is needed??

So i would have to retard the timing say 2.5* for the milling??? and another 4.75* retard or advance for the d15b jdm cam???

So if i retard the cam gear i would go to say like 7.25* retard on the cam??? Or say i advance it, would it be at 2.25* to compensate for the milling???


thanks again for the help
Shit thats way too much math for me right now....(had a few drinks sits not looking too good now).

The D15B cam is indexed for the d15 crank. Yes, you will have to take the amount TOTAL (head and deck) shaved pffed in account to get the cam timed. I would start with the 4.75*(or closest to it you can) RETARD first, then if all's not going right add HALF of what you milled into the mix. Example: 4.5* + .75* = 5.25* (or close to 5* to make it easy).

:clover:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Shit thats way too much math for me right now....(had a few drinks sits not looking too good now).

The D15B cam is indexed for the d15 crank. Yes, you will have to take the amount TOTAL (head and deck) shaved pffed in account to get the cam timed. I would start with the 4.75*(or closest to it you can) RETARD first, then if all's not going right add HALF of what you milled into the mix. Example: 4.5* + .75* = 5.25* (or close to 5* to make it easy).

:clover:
LMAO, thanks for clarifying this for me...
 

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sorry bro, i cant leave a D member hanging. lol I couldnt get my A6 exospeed s3 cam timed for the longest time...then when i did, it was too late. I had already messed my motor up. :tu: Timing is crucial when it comes to cams.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ic ic, well thanks again... i drove it pry 10 miles r so with it retarded 3* think i messed anything up... I have vitara pistons so i dont think it would, would it???

How about the ignition timing 16* r ???
 

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vitara's ? Shoot, if your running stock timing ecu wise your golden. LOL Its gonna take a good amount of timing on the vac side of the boost gauge to return it back to stock pull. You might even want to start your tuning ecu wise from the 16-14 vac on for your idle.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I'm not boosted yet, lol... that'll be after my tranny swap next week... then ima boost it... But i rebuilt the y7 awhile back planned on turboin so i threw the vitara's in early well i had it all gutted out...

So all should be good, shouldnt of messed it up???

do i still wanna retard the timing and what not??
 

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I would only retard it just enough. Say the 5* mark. Your compression is soo low right now that you wont even come close to messing anything up. I'd be more worried if you were around stock compression or higher. :td:

Also, you dont want to run too rich due to your low compression.
 
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