[burnin_ruberv8]

Well first... we'll compare the three engines:
B16A - D16Y8 - D15B7

B16A

• Displacment: 1587.12cc
• Bore: 81 mm
• Stroke: 77 mm
• Compression Ratio: 10.2:1
• Intake Valve Size: 33 mm
• Rod/Stroke Ratio: 1.74
• WHP @ Peek: 135 hp @ 7800,
• WTQ @ Peek: 92 ft-lb @ 7300

D16Y8

• Displacment: 1590.43cc
• Bore: 75 mm
• Stroke: 90 mm
• Compression Ratio: 9.6:1
• Intake Valve Size: 30 mm
• Rod/Stroke Ratio: 1.52
• WHP @ Peek: 100 hp @ 6600,
• WTQ @ Peek: 84 ft-lb @ 5500

D15B7

• Displacment: 1493.23cc
• Bore: 75 mm
• Stroke: 84.5 mm
• Compression Ratio: 9.2:1
• Intake Valve Size: 29 mm
• Rod/Stroke Ratio: 1.59
• WHP @ Peek: ~85 hp @ 5900
• WTQ @ Peek: ~77 ft-lb @ 5000

((My Conclusion))
The B16A is the better engine straight from the factory, It got a very high Rod/Stroke ratio, which is hard to come by with even today's 4-cyl factory engines... It's advanteges over the 2 d's are the R/S ratio, larger bore, kinda ported head from factory with 33 mm intake valve size, and a higher CR... but wait a minute... that's it??? a D15B7 block with D16Z6 head and a D16Y8 head gasket and some exhaust bolt-on's(tuned), will increase the compression ratio up to the 10.1:1+ range, close to the B16A cr, and this setup puts out 120+ at the wheels... now there's at least a 15 whp diffrence between the B16A and the D16... now let's look at the left advanteges of the B16 over the D besides the CR... The Rod/Stroke ratio... B16's very high Rod/Stroke certanley help it reach very high RPM's and keep the piston velocity low, but when you think about it does it really matter? comparing a B16 to a B18, they both have the same bore and they both use the same rod, but the diffrence is in the crankshaft, the B18 87mm stroke gives it a low 1.58 Rod/Stroke ratio and it still produces more torque and hp... exactley 10 hp more, can we say a 10 mm stroke would be more benifitial to an engine then a long r/s ratio?, then again the R/S ratio is connected by how good the low-lift flow of the head is... but anyway, tell me your opinion and thouts about this suject/comparsion?

 

[slowex98]

d16 hand down less expensive have a friend that outruns b16's all day long in his d16y8 samething I got but haven't had a chance to race one yet so you tell me if you want to pay like 2000-3000 dollars for a b16 swap when you can pay 500-800 and go the same speed if not faster just use the extra money you save from buying the d16 and build and turbo it and you see who wins then lol that is my opinion on b16 crap

 

[singlecizam]

b16

 

[burnin_ruberv8]

I have no problem going with a D, i have a D15 and i will go all-motor with it, but the misconception that let's people to always swap there D's for B's bother's me... offcourse a B is a better deal out from the factory for a few advanteges... but my idea is to spend the same kind of money that you will spend on swaping the D out, and spend it on the same D block... try to remove these dissadvantages for the D block as far as i can... the R/S ratio, replacing the whole assembley out, balancing, and you have a better block all the way for just a few bucks more over the total B16 swap price

 

[88cr-rex]

like comparing cams, it helps to know the values for the same RPM.

 

[burnin_ruberv8]

These are the specs of the 160hp generation one B16A3 camshaft:

• Intake opening (BTDC): 10
• Intake closing (ABDC): 40
• Intake duration: 230
  
• Exhaust opening (BBDC): 40
• Exhaust closing (ATDC): 7
• Exhaust duration: 227
  
• Overlap: 17
  
• Int. valve lift (mm): 10.6 (.417")
• Exh. valve lift (mm): 9.4 (.370")

 

[Pvon]

D is sleeper status and props

If your going N/A then the B will have higher potential (however i would recomend a b18c). If your goin FI then I would go with the D. Sub 250 or so both are on the stock block and past that you can build the D for the price of a B swap...

 

[Clutchmaster]

go D you can be faster for cheaper

 

[AllmotorD]

The only draw back with a D for allmotor is that the b has way more potential. I am a strickler for OEM parts and I have seen b16 run 200whp on oem. However an allmotor OEM D that will outta run a b16 that is twice the price has a way high cool factor. If you have 5 g's to spend though a b is the way to go!

 

[jimmyb34]

if your wanting to do an all motor build then i suggest swapping.... all motor isnt where the d shines

 

[TheMikeWoo]

keep the d. the only swap worth the price is k series or h series. 70+ all motor hp compared to 30+ hp with a b series.

 

[dustin_crxsi]

go D you can be faster for cheaper

keep the d. the only swap worth the price is k series or h series. 70+ all motor hp compared to 30+ hp with a b series.

I assume neither of you ever had a b16 engine.

Its not cheeper to build up a d-series. the swap is what cost alot. I spent $1000 on a d15b swap in my crx.

D engines are fun to build. Some bolt-on's and you can pull up to a h22 prelude and give them a good run. When people swap b-series. they dont do anything to add really power to it. they have it in there cars to say. Hey, I have a B-series..Durkadurka. and their dicks about it.

230 whp all motor in a b series engine, and your doing low 12's, and high 11's with slicks.

well how about this. If you want to make real hp in a d-series motor, Forced induction, and your spending a grand on the turbo set. Plus upgrading the valve train, and bottom end. B-series you can both ways to make HP.

 

[NEP-tuningalltheway]

but gets exspensive getting to 230whp if you dont have connections i konw about this lol but you can always peice together a b-series for relitivly cheap as well thats something people dont look at, you can spend maybe 1500ish and have a decent all motor b setup exp. gsr with ctr pistons and a b16 head and trans you can get that stuff for not to much

 

[s_18]

One thing... B16A has a total displacement of 1595 cc.
Not going to get into the B vs. D shit, as it has been beaten to hell and back,
but I have an All Motor D, and I like it

 

[EFing CRX]

Not going to get into the B vs. D shit, as it has been beaten to hell and back,

I gotta all motor D and i can walk freshly swapped STOCK b's and i guarentee ive spent way less on my D than a B swap would cost....

 

[Clutchmaster]

I assume neither of you ever had a b16 engine.

Its not cheeper to build up a d-series. the swap is what cost alot. I spent $1000 on a d15b swap in my crx.

how you figure the guys looking to spend 5K I have less than that invested in my car INCLUDING the price of my car. But then listen to what you said. You said you spent 1000 on the swap which is still 4k cheaper than the B swap. add another G for the HMT kit and you in it for 2k. In addtion to maybe 500 of micellaneous shit you might need including a tune. That's still HALF of the cost of that swap and your gonna be a whole lot quicker than a stock B16 that your gonna have to mod to make it quicker, which is gonna be more than 5K so tell me how your gonna be faster cheaper with a B again

 

[Clutchmaster]

I gotta all motor D and i can walk freshly swapped STOCK b's and i guarentee ive spent way less on my D than a B swap would cost....

True story I had a 89 CRX I/H/E short shifter delta 272 cam adj cam gear...walked all over a B18 swapped CRX my buddy had with my 250lbs friend in the passenger seat. 3 times..I'll take torque over REV's anyday

 

[EFing CRX]

I'll take torque over REV's anyday

I AGREE WITH THIS STATMENT....

 

[cory jordan]

i dont know man. lets say you bought an 89 crx si (so has your friend. same situation for the both of you), bad motor good tranny, now you have 3.5g's to spend and so does your homie. he wants a b16.
and you want to go turbo. you choose the d15b vtec or find a good z6 , lets say that you pay 500 (figuring high)
then you need some regular maitience stuff. seals gaskets ball joints tie rods timing belt water pump. we will say 350.
then you need a clutch and flywheel, 300 shipped
but now you need tires. 250 bucks for azenis, *could use a lesser tire.*
and now a bolt on greddy kit. found mine shipped online for 1562.
so now you have these parts. and dont know how to put them on. there is 500 dollars left and im sure that you could find a friend or some one who knows how to swap and would do it for 500.
so in all now you have a
fresh z6 turbo with good clutch and tires for 3500 installed.

now your homie. wants a b16.
he spends 1260 plus shipping
then he needs to buy the mount kit. which from hmotorsonline is 300 bucks.
then clutch and flywheel.we will say 400 bucks.
seals gaskets waterpump timing belt ect. 350.
tires 250
and now he needs labor.thats another 500 bucks.
and now that leaves you with only 300 bucks to spend on making it go fast. ....

this of course isnt a perfect situation, and who really only has 5g's to spend on a car. ONLY. but if you did. it would seem as though the d would win on a who's faster with 3500 dollars. idk maybe im wrong. i love all honda motors. but biased becuase i have never been to the dark side.

 

[singlecizam]

Torque owns....