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Honda Civic?
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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Guys,

alright, so here is the thing, i'm installing a FREE B&M fuel pressure gauge and a B&M CommandFlo adjustable fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail.

so all is dandy, i install it correctly, look for leaks while primed/priming, all looks good to go and i set it at the pressure i read on the gauge before i took the old one off set ~40psi when primed and ~37psi while running.

i start the car and it runs like hell, runs really chopping, popping in the exhaust and if you floor the throttle, it would just bog and then eventually go after about 3000rpm. also, i managed to drive it home and if you put any sort of load on it, it just bogs, jerks and stumbles like it's not getting enough fuel.

so i kept adjusting the pressure up and up to eventually a point where it would idle but still bog, i'm at about ~45psi running pressure. is there a limit that you can go to high? and why if i kept the stock fuel setting would it make my car run like piss? it's a d16z6 in a 94 ex if it helps...

hopefully someone can clue me in here, everytime i incrementally turn up the pressure it seems to get better but i don't want to go to high, i do have a header/exhaust and intake.

thanks a bunch,
James :rofc:
 

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best piece of advice,

take it off and save ur self a headache, u dont need that FPR at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
ha, yeah well it's kinda hard to do that now cause you kinda have to cut the top off...are these things pretty much shit? i figured it was free so why not...

it feels like it needs more fuel, what's the upper limit on the PSI with stock rail and injectors?
 

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ha, yeah well it's kinda hard to do that now cause you kinda have to cut the top off...are these things pretty much shit? i figured it was free so why not...

it feels like it needs more fuel, what's the upper limit on the PSI with stock rail and injectors?
Run the stock FPR or set the aftermarket to stock PSI.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Run the stock FPR or set the aftermarket to stock PSI.
i did that originally thinking there would not be a problem...i hooked the gauge up first, read the stock pressure, then set the adjustable one to what stock one read and no dice.

the ONLY reason i decided to put it on is cause it was free, so i figured why not. i have done some research (thanks to this site mostly) and figured out after the fact that these B&M things are just garbage but was marked for like $40.00, i would be pissed if it did this and i had paid for it....

thanks anyway, it's hard to track one of these down around here, not paying 100+ dollars at autozone
 

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take it off smash it with a hammer, and buy a really one or go back to OEM , b&m are junk.

sorry for the thread jack {if you need a oem one i have one for sale}
 

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Discussion Starter #8
take it off smash it with a hammer, and buy a really one or go back to OEM , b&m are junk.

sorry for the thread jack {if you need a oem one i have one for sale}
yea i want too..so i reverted back to the way it was (took off the gague, replaced banjo bolt, went to the junkyard, got a stock FPR) and now it's still doing the same thing... i'm completely at a loss now, could the filter get clogged?

it also has a hard chatter now when you engage the clutch to try and take off, it rattles and josles everything in the car, i might drive the thing off a cliff :censored:

any advice would be good..what about the ECU, can you fry that somehow?
 

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You may be on to something, it very well could be the fuel filter is clogged...

Either way, definitely try to retrace your steps. What did you unbolt/unplug while you were installing the FPR/Guage? It's possible that you altered something that has nothing to do with your fuel system. As for the ECU, those CAN fry, but it's highly unlikely as it's fairly protected by a couple of fuses.

Does it smell like unburnt fuel in the engine bay when the engine is running/hood open?

I'm currently running a B&M Adjustable FPR w/gauge, and I've never had a problem with it. I also ran one on my last car (CRX Si with a Y8 swap) - again, never a single problem.

Please know that I'm not recommending the Command Flo unit to anybody, I'm just ASSuming that his problem lies elsewhere than the OEM or B&M FPR unit...

Good luck finding the problem!
 

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I'm currently running a B&M Adjustable FPR w/gauge, and I've never had a problem with it. I also ran one on my last car (CRX Si with a Y8 swap) - again, never a single problem.
Same here
 

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Discussion Starter #12
You may be on to something, it very well could be the fuel filter is clogged...

Either way, definitely try to retrace your steps. What did you unbolt/unplug while you were installing the FPR/Guage? It's possible that you altered something that has nothing to do with your fuel system. As for the ECU, those CAN fry, but it's highly unlikely as it's fairly protected by a couple of fuses.

Does it smell like unburnt fuel in the engine bay when the engine is running/hood open?

I'm currently running a B&M Adjustable FPR w/gauge, and I've never had a problem with it. I also ran one on my last car (CRX Si with a Y8 swap) - again, never a single problem.

Please know that I'm not recommending the Command Flo unit to anybody, I'm just ASSuming that his problem lies elsewhere than the OEM or B&M FPR unit...

Good luck finding the problem!
hey, so i replaced the fuel filter and same no dice..it does not smell like unburnt fuel in compartment.. i took out my plugs to check the status and they look great, brown with a hint of white.

i only take my car to Chevron or Shell and Put in 92 octane,
i have checked all my sensors i thought i might have knocked off, all the vacuum lines, and i'm baffled because all i touched is the damn regulator which i put back to stock, along with the fuel filter i got a new one and took the gauge off/on to see if there was a leak or change.

i did the timing belt about 6 months ago with a new pump/tensioner/belt, was running just great until this little mishap here

i did reset the ECU, several times actually, and it's not throwing a CEL, even when you put it under a heavy load and it stumbles hard.

the only reason i keep thinking timing is because of the poor running conditions, i have the top timing cover off and from what i can see the timing hasent changed because after about 3k RPM it comes alive like nothing is wrong. Seems like it is backfiring at idle as well

I was talking to a few people and what if somehow with some extra pressure (like the regulator is junk and stuck open) could i have knocked something loose such as particles go... I replaced the fuel filter and maybe check out the rail and individual injectors for pluggage?

i don't think i unplugged anything, what about the TPS? (only thing i touched)
Also,

at this time i was running my nitrous lines, and mounted the zex box on the inner frame rail on the passenger side. i have no idea how this could cause any problem, i didnt fill the nitrous or even turn on the box yet because this crap happened.

today i took the bottle and clamps out because i mounted the bottle in the trunk, and thought i might have drilled into the fuel tank but how could that cause a problem? the fuel pump does not pressurize the tank correct?

here is my gauge and it is rock solid, set at ~37psi (which is stock) and when you give it throttle at idle, it goes up to around ~42 then back down.
also, when you detach the vacuum hose, it rises to ~47psi (which i thought was in spec)
*sorry for the blurry pic****


thanks for anything!
 

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ministry of mayhem!
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dude you didnt have a problem till you threw this part on, now instead of replacing it with a known working component your just throwing random parts at it. cmmon sense
 

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Discussion Starter #16
dude you didnt have a problem till you threw this part on, now instead of replacing it with a known working component your just throwing random parts at it. cmmon sense
i'm not throwing random components at it (other than a fuel filter), i put the original stock parts back on, i even took the gauge off in suspect of a leak.

you said you touched the tps...why?
i touched the TPS only to tap the wire for the ZEX box. nothing else, didnt come uplugged or anyway else violated.

listen to the voice of reason .
I DID this already...got a stocker from the yard, (got 2 actually and verified they both worked)

i was just hoping that someone might of had a similar problem and could offer some advice, not just bash me for the FREE part i already took off
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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which wire did you tap for the ZEX NMU?

Explain the list of events and upgrades.

Did this happen after the FPR upgrade, yet before the ZEX install? If it did why did you bother with the ZEX install?

My time is getting precious, answer smartly and don't avoid the questions.
 

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which wire did you tap for the ZEX NMU?

Explain the list of events and upgrades.

Did this happen after the FPR upgrade, yet before the ZEX install? If it did why did you bother with the ZEX install?

x2

...Also it definitely wouldn't hurt to THOROUGHLY double and triple check the cam timing.. Who knows, if you have luck like mine it could've suddenly slipped a tooth at the worst possible moment..??

Either way - just remember that this/your situation sounds rather uncommon... That being said, it's VERY likely that the problem is due to something that has been changed on the motor and/or it's components.

And for everyone else that's reading - he already changed back to the stock FPR!!
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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which is why I was asking about the ZEX install.





and I'm the person of knowledge that can't get his 95 LX running for the past 5-6 weeks.
 
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