Honda D Series Forum banner

1 - 20 of 32 Posts

·
Registered
Civic/4Runner
Joined
·
137 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Well, went to my first autox event today, went on a ride along and its got me itchin. I haven't posted on here much just been doing some browsing, I made a decision on what I was gonna do with my car, but now im looking a different route.

Original plans were to go y8 eagle/vitara motor, with the 62mm go-autoworks precision 6262 kit. I already ordered and received the Turbo kit from Greg (which I will say these kits are awesome). But now im thinking if I go smaller Turbo ill get a little more use out of the car. Its my summer DD, and play car. And after today I think it would be fun if I could go to some events with my friends and have a fairly competitive car.

So what im looking for is some info on what people are running on their boosted D's that autox. Im thinking of going t3/t4 60 trim to give me the quicker boost time and also be able to hold the boost to the top. Any info helps, looking for what people like and what works really well.

Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Civic/4Runner
Joined
·
137 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Im not to the point where im gomna start getting rid of parts yet, I want to get some info and get my homework done before I start to move forward on this. But im sure later on ill be open to doing some trading of some sorts if I need to.
 

·
Registered
90 CRX Si
Joined
·
3,866 Posts
I'll be using a DSM 14B because it's tiny, cheap and easy to replace if it goes bad. It should also spool incredibly quick. The motor is a bit over 10:1 CR, and when I build the new block it will be 10-10.5:1 CR.
 

·
Registered
Civic/4Runner
Joined
·
137 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I understand the concept of small Turbo higher compression, and the fact that I would be in a class that has some really well setup cars. Im not looking to get into serious autoxing, but more casual weekend stuff. I know that the 6262 would be way to big seeing the huge amount of lag and the vitaras lowering the compression. That's why im thinking 16g. Keeps my street power up and will be almost small enough for quicker spooling on the auto's.
 

·
Premium Member
89 CRX Si
Joined
·
1,041 Posts
My recommendation - don't make any changes to your car "to prepare it for it's first autocross" beyond safety and normal maintenance (don't try to autocross with a loose battery, etc.). Drive what you've got and focus on the driver first. You'll have plenty of time to work on the car setup after your first few events, and you may find you learn much during those first few events (based on what your car is actually doing at the first few events and how you want to change that, or what you see others doing or what they suggest).

It also depends greatly on which class/category in which you plan to run.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,092 Posts
I'd say you jumped the gun on the parts. Should have read more. Try it. And realize how big a 6262 is on this engine. Lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
840 Posts
GT28! great turbo, on another note wasn't there this exact thread open a few days ago?


but i agree don't be going crazy you will go faster with more seat time and focusing on your driving than you will with parts autox is like 85% driver and it really shows
 

·
Registered
90 CRX Si
Joined
·
3,866 Posts
Stay in a stock or street prep class. Do you really want to get into the money war that is the SM classes?
If you get serious with autox, this man presents a valid point.

My recommendation - don't make any changes to your car "to prepare it for it's first autocross" beyond safety and normal maintenance (don't try to autocross with a loose battery, etc.). Drive what you've got and focus on the driver first. You'll have plenty of time to work on the car setup after your first few events, and you may find you learn much during those first few events (based on what your car is actually doing at the first few events and how you want to change that, or what you see others doing or what they suggest).

It also depends greatly on which class/category in which you plan to run.
Tightening the nut behind the wheel is where you'll make up the most time. I hear people say all the time there car just "isn't ready" to autocross, and unless it's falling apart that's never the case. You can autox anything and have fun, just go out and work on driving. Is your setup going to be laggy? Yes, but you can still have fun out there.
 

·
Premium Member
88 RT4WD wagon
Joined
·
227 Posts
you'd need an incredible amount of tire to get the grip to hold the speed up to use that turbo, but if it's just for fun and you arent trying to be competitive, then i say go for it!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
840 Posts
now my question is what would constitute a good SP prep? i've been thinking about the class but know very little about it
 

·
Premium Member
2005 Legacy GT
Joined
·
1,754 Posts
Okay ... first things first. If you are building an AutoX car ... you're doing it backwards. Ground up ... not engine down. You can have the best most perfect engine setup in the world but if your suspension and tires aren't up to snuff ... well you're driving an overpriced paperweight (at least as far as AutoX is concerned). Work on making your car stick, it's not about how fast you can get going ... it's about how much speed you can carry. So ... if I was going to build an AutoX car from scratch here's what I'd do:
(1) Suspension - Coil and Spring or full coil over ... just do it don't argue.
-1a - Once you figure out how you drive with your suspension then think about your sway bars. Is it rotating too much or not enough? Add sway bars to compensate/complement your driving style.
(2) Got that down ... now lets keep that power on the ground where it belongs. Tire time. What class are you competing in ... this will determine what tires you use.
(3) Now it's time for the end game ... build your engine. You've been accumulating valuable seat time, and building your suspension with this endgame in mind. Now that you can keep it on the ground ... get that power you've been craving.


Tell you what. Being able to take turns with your foot planted in infinitely more fun than any straight line acceleration you will ever experience.
 

·
Premium Member
89 CRX Si
Joined
·
1,041 Posts
now my question is what would constitute a good SP prep? i've been thinking about the class but know very little about it
Suspension, suspension, suspension. If you are interested in competing at the pointy end of the field, you should plan to invest in some good shocks (think MCS/Koni 28's/Penske/Moton/AST/JRZ) and lots of testing to figure out how to make them work. Sway bars, springs, bushings, and adjustable arms are all on the menu, and you will probably be looking at having some parts made as most of the off-the-shelf parts in these areas are decent, but not optimal. Wheel and tire sizes are unlimited, so budget for some silly wide wheels and plan to cut up your fenders some (if you have the money, time and patience, you can do this so it doesn't look like crap...but crappy looking fenders that don't rub work just as well as pretty fenders that don't rub in my opinion...form follow function).

Plan to exploit update/backdate extensively, and to remove everything you can to save weight (passenger door mirror, radio, A/C, rear window wipers, clocks, speakers, front seat belts and reels (supplant with 4 or 5 point harness), brake dust shields, evap canister, lightweight battery, etc.) as there are no minimum weights in SP...just maximum allowances. There is a "big brake allowance" in SP that if followed carefully actually becomes a "light brake allowance" as you can pretty much use anything as long as it is no smaller in diameter than the stock bits (even switching from rear drums to discs, you can use discs the same diameter as the drums and lightweight calipers to drop some unsprung weight).

Invest in the best limited slip you can buy...getting to the throttle as quickly as possible in a corner is the key to maximizing corner exit speeds and getting to the next corner quickest.

A simple 20 over rebuild of the motor, a decent tune, and some free-flowing intake and header/exhaust bits are about all you need to worry about engine-wise. There's not a whole lot more you can legally do in the class, and you are more interested in low end and mid range grunt vs. a motor that makes power up high but falls on its face down low.

Then invest in tires and run every event you can...get seat time, take notes (weather, shock settings, tire pressures, results), and learn how to adjust to different surfaces and course styles.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
840 Posts
i've been around the block for awhile i just never looked into in of the SP classes there is an FSP eg hatch up here that is pretty quick but really not all that fast, less than 2 secs off my stc times but i know that my ej just can't turn the times that the EF/ED's can i'm close but its like fighting without a foot its never going to be fair. and my pockets aren't yet deep enough for SMF if they were a kswap would be in my car already haha.

thanks for the info i might be pm'ing you some questions this winter are you running in SP
? i'd like to ask a little more about your set up.
 

·
Registered
Civic/4Runner
Joined
·
137 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Thanks for all the info, I appreciate everything. I guess I should explain where my car sits as of now so its a clear understanding.

Bought the car this summer, first thing I did was buy some wheels w/tires and s2 sport struts and lowering springs. Then I finally decided I wanted to make it fast, so I got a separate y8 longblock to start building on. Ordered my 62mm turbo kit from greg at go-autoworks. Ordered front and rear s2 camber kits, poly bushings for the entire car, gsr front and rear brake swap with stoptech slotted rotors and hawk pads.

Still need to decide on what sway bars to go with, and ill also be looking to getaway coilovers, not sure which ones tho.

Drove the car upuntil about a month ago when it decided to get a rod knock and eventually blew a hole in the block.
 
1 - 20 of 32 Posts
Top