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Discussion Starter #1
ok, i drive a 94 ej1 with z6 auto trans. nothing more than i/h/e, change trans fluid every 10k miles, trans feels strong, nothing seems wrong, BUT, when cruising 60mph or more, the trans keeps slipping in and out of overdrive, or the tq converter locks then unlocks. i usually only have this problem in the winter because the coolant temp wont stay in the "operating temperature", so the tq wont lock up, but its been like 90 degrees all summer and jus recently it starts doing this. any clues, ideas suggestions? its really getting on my nerves...thanks guys....
 

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Does it shift by itself sometimes? and try to downshift on say an on or off ramp on the highway?

My tranny did that because it was low on tranny fluid after I changed it...could be your issue.
Other than that you might wanna see if you can get ahold of another tranny, I know its a big ass hassle, but hey if it works then you know your old trannys bad :bigok:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
no, the trans is perfectly fine untill about 55-60 when the tq converter locks up....then it unlocks, and locks, and unlocks.....its kind of annoying. the trans fluid level is "perfect" with fresh fluid changed every 10k and a trans cooler thats over half the size of my radiator. the fluids not old, or dark or burnt smelling....its weird, like even when using cruise control it still does this.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
im hoping to not have to buy a new trans. any suggestions other than replace it b4 figuring out what is wrong with it?
 

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my car is doing the same thing, however mine is a 97, mine is because the tranny is getting old, my last gear clutch pack is very warn and likes to slip when on the highway, it's kinda like just driving down the highway then out of no where the rpm's increase by about 1000 but i didn't hit the gas any harder and my speed didn't increase at all, then after a few seconds it grabs again. ( the previous owner called it a hickup) lol. i'd say about time to replace or rebuild. BTW i have 244,XXX miles on my tranny
 

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Discussion Starter #9
would you guys trust something like this?:

http://www.jdmenginescorp.com/transmissions_details/honda_civic-jdm-d15b-d16a-zc-sohc-obd1-92-95-auto-trans

also, how can i tell if its the "ex" version or an lx/dx, or some other trim transmission? id really like it to be off a d16z6, or d15b vtec or sohc zc vtec and not a d15b2/7 etc...

i know the item description says "Civic JDM D15B D16A ZC SOHC OBD1 92-95 Auto Trans", but are there codes differing the "vtec trans" from the "non vtec trans" as there are for manual trans?
 

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They call me Awesome!
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Have you checked here or here?

FWIW, there's NO WAY I'd give $224 for an auto trans. I bought one for my wife's car a while back and gave $50 for it, we then sold it to her mother. Car's been running about a year.

Try putting a WTB ad out on CL for a Auto Tranny. ASK FOR MILEAGE!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
thanx for the links, but id rather have a z6/d15b trans.... and id rather pay $300 bucks for a "low mileage" trans with any kind of warranty than buy a 100k+ mileage trans from a junkyard or random person....

im either going to pay $300 for a "low mileage" trans from an importer with some kind of warranty, $17xx for an allready rebuilt z6 trans, OR buy a decent shape z6 trans for cheap, and still pay god knows how much to get it rebuilt. im not to fond of putting "used" parts on my car (specially engine and trans) unless i know its got loowwww mileage with some warranty, or unless it rebuilt...... i payed like $700 for a zcvtec from hmotors, and would MUCH rather spend more on something like that than spend even $1 on a "working" z6 locally (unless the z6 was rebuilt or had less than 100k on it) and want to do the same with my trans. either rebuilt, low mileage w/ warranty, or rebuild....no junkyard/cl engines/trans in my car
 

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remember the lx/dx transmission actually is the better gearing for our gen.

seriously, craigslist for a 50-100 dollar auto unbolt and rebolt, if you want to drop green get the TCI rebuild kit for our trannies and then you will have one that will go forever with proper maintenance.

also if you are going to get spendy i'd take the extra time to find the elusive automatic trans with the lsd that came outta the del sol.
 

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usdm del-sols have lsd auto trans?

the lx/dx auto trans has shorter gears then the z6 auto trans?
final drive in the lx/dx is better, bone actually alerted me to this. Though i think the ex one is "slightly" stronger for handling power supposedly, though this has not been tested and i've seen z6's with bolt ons run fine on the lx tranny, also seen plenty of boosted b7's running auto

some del-sols had a lsd in them, I know for a fact a bunch of the jdm ones did and I *think* some usdm ones had them.

Bigtuna got one in his manual to auto project, though i'm not sure if its jdm or usdm. its the m24a, some have lsd.

if you were gonna drop bank on a tranny, i'd spend the extra time finding an lsd one. OR i would get an lx on the cheap and the rebuild kit. if you can't do all at once, get the trans and put it in, then save up for the rebuild kit and shop around for someone to do it. 224 to replace an ex isn't a good deal. i bought my ex auto trans for 75 and i am not even using it right now.
race rebuild kit should be 200some and probably 250 or so to have someone put it in. look around on CL and i'm sure you can find an lx tranny for anywhere between 40-70. it looks like a lot of money total but it will feel a hell of a lot better and last longer under hard driving.
 

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the MAD scientist
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I'm going to have to say I would not spend any money fixing your automatic.

Just bite the bullet and convert to a manual. It will make it sooo much more fun to drive.
 

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torque converter is slipping very very common problem causes can be running the wrong fluid and allowing too much slippage or not to let it lock up at all. honda also instituted a "slip bump" kind of action wich slipped the torque converter in order to engage it, causing it to slip slightly before locking wich caused alot of wear problems.

other problems could be a bad governor valve that is sticking causing the TC to not fill completely.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
my fix was to block half the radiator with a piece of cardboard, i guess the tq converter only locks when at operating temp. in the winter, cruising 60 down the highway the coolant temp dropped and was causing the tq converter to unlock, then lock once it got warmer, then unlock...

i dont have the problem in the summer tho
 
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