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Discussion Starter #1
hi guys im new to this forum. for a d16y7 with the y7 mani and TB, and a manual tranny swap, can you use the auto IACV? this is my problem:
i got a CEL light for IACV, so i went to buy one, and the IACV for M/T has 2 screws when the one i needed replaced had 4 which is the A/T. the car was converted from auto to manual by the previous owner and it looks to me that he was using the automatic IACV (it is 3-wire). i replaced it and my CEL is still on and i idle at 900rpm. my question is can i just adjust the idle and keep the auto IACV? thanks! also, the manual one has 2 screws, can i just bolt that onto the TB (y7)?
 

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did you reset the ecu?
 

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i have a 96 hatch with a d16y7 and i did the auto to manual swap and did not do the 3 to 2 wire iacv and everything works great no weird idle.
the CEL light MAY be on if the previous owner changed the ECU over to a manual one, maybe the manual cars use the 2 wire iacv.
(am still using the auto) and my CEL is on but thats cause the ECU does not see the trans.
i would check to see if you have a auto ECU or manual first.
an not sure of all this maybe someone can give you a better answer.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
thanks for the responses guys! well i've been driving the car fine with the 3-wire IACV setup fine until the CEL came on because the old IACV had a leak. so i replaced the IACV with a 4-screw, 3-wire which is exactly what was on it before. mind you ive been driving the car like that for almost 2 years. and probably a silly question but im new to this so, how can you check/tell if the ECU is manual/auto?

incase it's not clear, ive been driving the car for 2 years with no CEL until the leak in the IACV and that's when it turned on.
 

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For OBD2 you can just look at it. Manual ones have spots for 4 plugs but only use three of them whereas the auto ones use all 4 or you can check using the number that is printed on the ecu. Also did you reset the ecu after you replaced the IACV?
 

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Can't use a 2-wire IACV with a 3-wire setup and vice versa, to the best of my knowledge.
I learned that yesterday the hard way when I tried to to plug my y7 engine harness with 3-wire IACV plug into my gsr swap with a 2-wire IACV lol. I had to convert it to a 2-wire plug.

so your knowledge is right on the money :TU:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
update: the car seems to be fine, CEL is still on and idling at 900-1000rpm (normal auto idle). im planning on just adjusting the idle screw back to 700rpm. it doesnt fluctuate or go wild. do u guys think this will solve my problem?

and also, what do u mean reset the ecu? i take out the neg battery terminal to reset the ecu lol is this wat u mean?

thanks guys!
 

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I learned that yesterday the hard way when I tried to to plug my y7 engine harness with 3-wire IACV plug into my gsr swap with a 2-wire IACV lol. I had to convert it to a 2-wire plug.

so your knowledge is right on the money :TU:
Ya I did A LOT of researching on this topic to see if I would be able to use a D16Y8 manifold I found in a junkyard on an OBD1 build.
 

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Go to AutoZone, Pep Boys, O'reilly's or what ever parts store around you that will scan OBD2 cars for free and have them scan and reset the MIL codes. OBD2 stores the codes till the ECU is reset so more then likely that is the problem. You could also remove the ECU backup fuse from the under hood fuse box for a minute, that should reset the ECU. It's a 7.5 amp fuse.

 

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Discussion Starter #11
oh wow thanks HondaDNA! im gona try the fuse trick first. but correct me if im wrong, if my car idles at 900-1000 rpm will the CEL still come back on? or am i adjusting the idle first then reseting the ECU?
 

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No it wont come back on just cause your base idle is high.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
thanks! its still on after the fuse trick. so ill go to autozone to do it there. the IACV has been replaced tho. i was thinking the CEL was still on because i put an auto IACV in a manually converted car. but i guess its just ok according to the responses. thanks guys!
 
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