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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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do some searching before you make a thread
 

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Ok. I'm new here but I'm in need of some help.

I just recently swapped a d16y8 into my hatch which was a d16y7 originally. The problems I am having is two things specifically.

1. I had the car running but with a hunting idle using the y7 harness but then tore the harness out for troubleshooting. Now that the harness is back in I can start the car and it will idle but dies once applying throttle. I'm guessing there is something I missed during re installation of the harness but can't figure out what.

2. The hunting idle. I know this topic has been worn out but I have checked the iacv and looked for vacuum leaks as well. One thing I did notice however is there is a nipple for a hose under my intake blowing quite a bit of air but I don't know what the other end of a hose would go.

I'm sort of a n00b at working on cars myself but I'm teaching myself as a I go.
 

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Another noob intro....first off I wanna thank you all for creating this forum, as well as what you have done for the community, thank you. I am building my 92 cx hatch now for the second time after a theft first build hit 260 whp, shooting for 400 this go around. This build starts with a GE sleeved and o-ringed block, eagle rods, wiseco pistons and fully balanced to the clutch. crower top end, s2 ultra race IM, 74mm ultra series tb, walbro 255, Rc 750s and aeromotive fpr. Go-Autoworks pro turbo kit with the tga-5454 bb turbo, 3" dp and 3" coldside piping. Haven't purchased exhaust but leaning toward the s2 mega power rr 3" exhaust. Act flywheel, 6puck sprung disc and hd street/strip pressure plate, Kaaz lsd and driveshaft shop axles. So that's the build just waiting for machine shop to finish engine. Look forward to bs'n with y'all!!!
 

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D in a mid engine custom build

Six years as a member and my first post. I did a mild search but didn't see what I was looking for.

I'm going to build a 1,000 lb. single seat, street legal middy and want the lightest modern programmable motor/tranny with 100 to 150 whp and capable of 150 to 200 whp. Bullet proof and with high mpg capabilities.

I'm a Honda guy and know K series pretty well but they are way too heavy for this project. I'm on my seventh Honda/Acura and just feel comfortable with them for all of the reasons that you are aware of.

What are the weaknesses I should be aware of? What specific Ds should I be researching? I would like to settle on a specific one that I can build several cars with; at least five to start.

The car will have narrow 27" tires for the street for high mpg and lower diameter wider tires for the fun stuff. Pretty unusual.

Thanks in advance and hope this is a viable choice.
 

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^Are you building a chassis because no car weighs in at that low
I'm going to build a 1,000 lb. single seat, street legal middy

Yes, I am. Tubular space frame similar to a formula 600 car but with a more upright configuration. Sort of. And with a full coverage body with only one door.

Similar to these but not as sophisticated and a little lower. The track version would be about two inches lower than street version;

Volkswagen NILS


Audi Urban Concept


 

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"What are the weaknesses I should be aware of? What specific Ds should I be researching? I would like to settle on a specific one that I can build several cars with; at least five to start."

Anyone?
 

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@hasbro i would say the tranny is d series weakest point you sound like a fabbed so if you did. Minor d series all motor build w gsr b16 type r tranny it deff would be a fun car
 

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@hasbro i would say the tranny is d series weakest point you sound like a fabbed so if you did. Minor d series all motor build w gsr b16 type r tranny it deff would be a fun car
Thanks, boosted. By weakest point, are you referring to it breaking under hard use? I'm trying very hard to keep the weight down and iirc, the b trannies are about 25 lbs. heavier. Which d lump do you suggest I research? D17A2? It would have to be readily available (need about five to start) in the US.
 

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You day it's your daily driver? Well, if you don't have another set of wheels it seems to me you don't have much choice but to build an engine on the side. And even if you do have the option of public transportation, that can get real old real quick. Trust me.

Like they say, "If it ain't broke don't fix it."

Just make like a squirrel and stash your nuts.

Rugger53
 

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Six years as a member and my first post. I did a mild search but didn't see what I was looking for.

I'm going to build a 1,000 lb. single seat, street legal middy and want the lightest modern programmable motor/tranny with 100 to 150 whp and capable of 150 to 200 whp. Bullet proof and with high mpg capabilities.

I'm a Honda guy and know K series pretty well but they are way too heavy for this project. I'm on my seventh Honda/Acura and just feel comfortable with them for all of the reasons that you are aware of.

What are the weaknesses I should be aware of? What specific Ds should I be researching? I would like to settle on a specific one that I can build several cars with; at least five to start.

The car will have narrow 27" tires for the street for high mpg and lower diameter wider tires for the fun stuff. Pretty unusual.

Thanks in advance and hope this is a viable choice.
Honestly Ds are not THAT much lighter than Ks.

If I was in your position I would be thinking street bike engine and tranny.

If you want to stick to cheap and easy and Ds are not to heavy, just about any of them will work. D16z6 with matching tranny is a good choice. But getting 150BHP with a NA D is a strech that wouldnt be worth it imo, and 200 isnt going to happen unless you go turbo.
 

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Any other noobs wanna chat? I've been on this website for a long time but I just lurk and search so I never post and I guess my account activity is too low.

I briefly had and an EG hatch back in the day and used to have an h-swapped EF hatch.

Just picked up an EJ6 recently as a beater/daily. Planning to keep the d16y7 pretty much stock hopefully and just try to rack up the miles. Have a garage full of turbo parts and the temptation to boost it is kinda killing me, but hopefully I can hold out and keep it a reliable DD.

My plan it to keep this car super low budget and to just get the exterior to be presentable while tweaking the interior and features. Power windows, power locks, heated leather, leather armrest, teg shifter, tach cluster, speakers/amp/deck, remote starter + keyless... basically just modernize the car a little bit since it's pretty spartan right now.

I'd love to add A/C as well but I dunno if it'll be worth the effort. Already have power steering.

Next up is changing all the fluids and doing tbelt/water pump/etc since I don't have any records from the previous owner. And trying to address the terribly sloppy shifter.

If anyone has any suggestions for low-budget tweaks that make the car nicer to use day-to-day, I'd love to hear them. So far I'm mostly just relying on all the interchangeable Honda bits and pieces to lego together the stuff I want, so if there are certain parts that I should be keeping an eye out for, let me know!
 

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Swapping on an intake from an automatic y8 is a great upgrade for a y7.

Next thing on my list after that is an EX tranny, but that is considerably more work and expense.
 

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I was actually at the junkyard a couple days ago collecting more Honda parts and saw a y8 manifold... I must have walked back over a half dozen times convincing myself to grab it and then talking myself out of it again. Was from a manual trans car and had the rail + TB attached so would have been perfect to use for a future obd1 conversion.

I've never seen a back-to-back dyno comparison, but realistically I think the y8 manifold would only be worth a couple HP on its own. Still a great cheap and easy bolt-on mod though :)

The main reason for me to switch intake manifolds would be for boost, which I am hoping to avoid haha
So I decided that I would stick with my awkward y7 manifold to deter future power modding :surrender:

Although I'm also sticking with my tall gears for better mpg, but how much does an EX tranny typically go for? I saw one of those at the junkyard recently too.
 

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Honestly, I think stock y7 to y7 with y8 intake is a bigger jump than going from y7 with y8 intake to a y8 head intake and ecu.

That y7 intake is a major restriction.
 

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Wow... really?

You're saying that just swapping the y8 manifold onto a stock d16y7 is more noticeable than doing a mini-me head swap to add vtec + an intake + a tune??

I would have thought that the y8 manifold swap would be worth under 5hp, but a vtec head conversion with tune would be worth 15-20hp
 

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y7 = 106hp, y8 = 127hp, id guess y7/y8 mini me is probably around 130hp, and that a y7 with just a y8 intake is probably around 118-120hp

Its an off the cuff guess, so I could be off, but when I did mine I did the intake first then did the full mini me later, and the first part felt like a bigger jump than the second.

You should be able to grab a manual y8 intake, take off the IACV, clean off the mating surface, get a piece of aluminum popcan and cut it about the side of the IACV port and screw on the IACV to block the ports, might have to use a bit of silicone or gasket maker or something between the intake and aluminum port cover.

Then put the y8 manual intake on your y7 head, put in your y7 injectors and throttlebody, and hook everything up. It will give you a decent upgrade now, and later on when you switch to OBD1 you remove piece of aluminum between the IACV and the intake, do the 2 wire IACV conversion, swap in the original y8 injectors and a common throttlebody and you are good to go.

Edit: you might even be able to get by without the piece of aluminum, 2 wire IACVs are supposed to be closed when not plugged in, so you could see if it worked properly without the aluminum plate first.
 

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Interesting, thanks!
Do you feel the time and expense of doing the head swap was worth it for ~10hp gain?

If the y8 manifold swap makes that much of a difference (and only costs about 20 bucks), you might have talked me into doing this haha
 

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Interesting, thanks!
Do you feel the time and expense of doing the head swap was worth it for ~10hp gain?

If the y8 manifold swap makes that much of a difference (and only costs about 20 bucks), you might have talked me into doing this haha
The y8 manifold is super cheap and easy and if your gonna go boost its neccesary.iv read up alot on mini me swaps and na seems like its definetly worth the whole swap .for the majority iv read on boosted setup,it seems like the y8 manifold is done but the hed and cam wont be very important and tuning the non vtec d is easier and cheaper as it takes less dyno time.
 

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The y8 manifold is super cheap and easy and if your gonna go boost its neccesary.iv read up alot on mini me swaps and na seems like its definetly worth the whole swap .for the majority iv read on boosted setup,it seems like the y8 manifold is done but the hed and cam wont be very important and tuning the non vtec d is easier and cheaper as it takes less dyno time.
Yeah realistically there is no way I can see myself doing the mini-me; was just interested in other people's first hand experiences. To be honest, I'm really not interested in trying to make this car faster. If I were to do any serious mods though, I'd just boost the old non-vtec y7 head with stock bottom end.

The reason I originally decided to keep the y7 manifold was to stop myself from starting to do any other engine mods since I'm terrible at turning cars into long term projects haha

I guess I will end up doing the y8 intake manifold and throwing together an intake for it. But that's it!
 
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