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asking the guys who know more than me :)

2K views 36 replies 12 participants last post by  xotic_crx 
#1 ·
buddy at work informed me about something i've been interested in for a while

i love my little 92 civic 4dr with a passion, and would much rather keep it instead of buying any other car from a dealership ( no monthly payment and low insurance :D ) and also want to make it a little more fun to drive

so here's what i'm getting at, and if you could give me a hand or point me in the right direction for the best correct answers, i'd be more than happy

i currently have a d15b7 engine, and i hear a good way to get a little extra power and make my car more fun to drive at the same time is to get the d16a8 ( ZC ) engine DOHC, i know i can get the d16z6 sohc, but prefer the d16a8

D16A8

* Found in:
o 1988-1995 Civic/CRX/Concerto (UK/Europe/Australia)
o 1990-1995 Rover 216/416 GTi(UK/Europe)
+ Displacement : 1590 cm³
+ Bore and Stroke : 75 mm X 90 mm
+ Compression : 9.5:1
+ Power : 125 hp (93 kW) @ 6800 rpm & 108 ft·lbf @ 5900 rpm
+ Valvetrain : DOHC
+ Fuel Control : OBD-0 MPFI
+ ECU Code: PM7
that info is what wikipedia has shown about the engine, looks as if it was used in the 88-95 civic's over seas but not america, so my main question is, will the d16a8 bolt right up to my tranny ( 92 honda civic LX 4dr D15b7 is current ) and what else would be needed to do the swap?

thanks in advance guys!
 
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#2 ·
Should bolt right up. Only thing need for the swap would be the proper ECU and the conversion harness (Like 2 plugs) for the dizzy, as long as the motor is OBD1, if it's obd0 i'm not sure if you'd need something else or not. You can order one of these, known as the DOHC ZC, from many sites, such as hmotorsonline.com.
 
#3 ·
trust me the dohc zc isnt worth it to a certain point of course. stay with the b7 or get a d16z6 . trust me if done right you wont regret it.
 
#6 ·
Well the ZC's are harder to find parts for typically, and i've heard they have problems with the heads, but thats just local guys telling me that.

I have a buddy who had a ZC in his 90 hatch, and it was quick, but he fubar'd his head beating it too hard. It felt quicker than my mini-me, but we never got to run them, plus my setup was never right.
 
#7 · (Edited)
vtec or not, i dont really mind, the entire point is just to make my car more enjoyable, and i'm sure i could do that with a vtec engine, but a non vtec is just fine as well

now this is were i get a little noobish on ya so bare with me

i'm not exactly sure what all the OBD1 and OBD0 mean, and the term dizzy has yet to be explained, if you could clear that up, i'd appreciate it

Well the ZC's are harder to find parts for typically, and i've heard they have problems with the heads, but thats just local guys telling me that.

I have a buddy who had a ZC in his 90 hatch, and it was quick, but he fubar'd his head beating it too hard. It felt quicker than my mini-me, but we never got to run them, plus my setup was never right.
even with the D16a8 in my car, i probably wouldn't push it too hard, i'd still take care of it like i do now with my d15b7, but knowing i could push it a little harder than the d15b7, but still to a certain extent, so that being said, should the head be ok?
 
#8 · (Edited)
vtec or not, i dont really mind, the entire point is just to make my car more enjoyable, and i'm sure i could do that with a vtec engine, but a non vtec is just fine as well

now this is were i get a little noobish on ya so bare with me

i'm not exactly sure what all the OBD1 and OBD0 mean, and the term dizzy has yet to be explained, if you could clear that up, i'd appreciate it



even with the D16a8 in my car, i probably wouldn't push it too hard, i'd still take care of it like i do now with my d15b7, but knowing i could push it a little harder than the d15b7, but still to a certain extent, so that being said, should the head be ok?
Well, if you're trying to perk up a DD, then you could go with a vtec motor. I swapped to a z6 so i could have pretty good mpg while having god power when i got into vtec. I still made good mpg w/ my old a6 setup though.

Dizzy means distributor.

OBD means On Board Diagnostics. OBD0(read OBD Zero) came in cars from 88-91 on hondas, and OBD1 is on 92-95 cars. Then you have OBD2 on 96 up. OBD1 is what you have, and if you get a motor, you should try to get an obd1 motor.

I think you would be ok with it as long as you don't overrev it.

BTW, try searching and reading the stickies. They help alot.
 
#10 · (Edited)
shit, i dont even let my d15b7 go over 3000 rpm's, 4000 rpm's max lol, i baby that damn thing, but maybe thats why it runs well still :)

even after i swap out the d15b7 for either a z6 for vtec, or a8 for a non vtec motor

so what your getting at, is if i found an obd1 motor i wouldn't need a new ecu? if thats correct, the d16z6 should be odb1, but the d16a8 was used from 88-95, so it falls into the two categories you mentioned for the ecu since it was used during the era of 88-91 ( obd0 ) and into the era of 92-95 ( obd1 )

would it matter that this engine was only used outside of america?

xotic, i really would like to thank you for the help you've given me, much respect for you, i really do appreciate it bud :)
 
#11 ·
Well they offered an obd0 and obd1 ZC. And no, it doesn't matter if it was used outside of the US. Be careful if you order a ZC, there is a SOHC(same as d16A6) and the DOHC, the one you're talking about.

Now you will have to change ECU's for either of these, but being obd1 you won't have to change harnesses. You can either get your ECU chipped with the proper fuel/ignition map or buy the right ECU

ECU for d16z6 is called the P28, ZC is PM7. For the Z6, i think you'll have to get a vtec subharness for vtec to work.

Not a problem, i'm not too far removed from being in your shoes.
 
#22 ·
the DOHC ZC runs a P29 ECU, not a PM7
 
#12 ·
so since it'll bolt right up to my tranny, all i'm looking at for a ZC is a new ECU, and if i look into a z6, i'm looking into a new ECU and possibly a vtec subharness

http://www.hmotorsonline.com/shop/sc2000search.cgi?what=page&item=30022

thats the D16a8 ( ZC DOHC ) its says 88-92 civic, so it should be cool? $599.00 or $799.00 with ZC transmission

didn't see a d16z6 on hmotorsonline

do you have experience with hmotors and are they behind their word on a good motor and tranny? i see 800.00 bucks for new tranny and engine not to be a bad deal
 
#13 ·
They seem good, i've had buddies get their motor from there, but i ordered mine from another place. Hmotors only carries the d15b, not the d16z6, but it put out the same power.

Here's the vtec subharness i was talking about.

Now, with that being an obd0 motor, i am not sure exactly if it all plugs right in. I know in a crx its a direct drop in with this dizzy adapter.
 
#17 ·
Seriously, if there is nothing WRONG with the engine, take it to redline while accelerating, its fine, the honda redlines tend to err on the side of caution. Just don't cruise with the tach pegged at 6000!!! :D

Also, if I were you, I would try to get the Z6, or the D15B (vtec). Both handle turbo's great if you want to boost. People typically grab a t3 off an old saab and build a turbo kit. Or you can just do light n/a mods to pep it up a bit.

OR, you could keep the B15B7, get an A6 cam and Y7/Y8 cam gear, Z6im and enjoy THOSE benefits. Theres really a lot of options, you should do a search for D15B7, it's a better motor than most people think.

BTW, I have only heard praise about Hmotors. Supposedly, the guy is really picky about what motors he picks up from japan, so I've never heard of him selling any duds.

Good luck with whatever you decide on. Picking the motor can be the hardest part!
 
#16 ·
If you want more power in your DD then just take it past 3000 rpms. Your not even making full power at 3000 on your current engine. Floor it and youll be happy. The cars can def take alot more than 3000 rpm and run perfectly well. Whats the point of swapping in another engine that never sees past 3000 rpm therefore never sees its max hp? Just my opinion.
 
#20 ·
www.hmotorsonlie.com has an OBD1 DOHC ZC for 599. The trans is 150 more. You need to call them, they have one its just not listed. I almost baught this motor. They really are good motors. unless you can find something cheaper than that local, id say go with it. The SOHC Vtecs only lay down about 110 to the wheels where as a DOHC ZC will lay down closer to 120. Webcams make cams for it and you can run your OE ECU and get it chipped with a P29 basemap and it will work fine, or if you can find one you can get a P29 ECU
 
#21 ·
i just dont take it past 3000rpm's just because its an older engine, 182,xxx on it right now, i just dont want to hurt anything and put myself into a big bind

your right though, maybe if i do get up on it a little harder than i do now, maybe i'd be more happy, but what are the downfalls to doing high rpm's alot?
 
#23 ·
Burning more gas, possibly hurting the rings, but as long as its well maintained and you dont do it all the time you should be fine
 
#24 ·
any particular gear not to do high rpm's on? again, i've never pushed any car hard, so as pathetic as this sounds, i dont know much about it :(

if i did keep my d15b7, kept it well maintained, what could i do to the engine itself to make it a little more fun?

i hear adding a cold air intake, headers and a new exhaust system will help it breathe alot better, hence producing more horsepower, but outside of those, anything else that i could benefit from?
 
#25 ·
well, depends on how much your looking to spend. as for the fear, it doesnt matter, redline is redline. You can do a cam, intake mani, I/H/E and an EX tranny for about 6-700 if you do the work yourself
 
#26 ·
the transmission i might need help on, but I/H/E ( funny, i know what this means but didn't even know what OBD1 meant )

i found one website i've been looking at for a while now, called www.procivic.com, anyone heard of em? well they have a few things i've been looking at

http://www.procivic.com/pages-produ...2:5efa5edb8e5f843d202b49ba55526501/index.html

thats the intake

http://www.procivic.com/pages-produ...9:926171535f6c0d35078a5c9a145aeda0/index.html

headers

and the exhaust i'm not so sure about, i dont want a big fart can, those annoy me, but something that will cope with the I/H so it can breathe

is there anything in particular ( spec wise ) when i'm looking for any part as a bolt on that i should look out for, or look for?
 
#27 ·
Hm...I have the dc header on mine and like it a lot.

About revving past 3k. You should be fine. Don't try to over rev it and regular maintenance should help your motor last long. I was hitting 200K on my y8 and reving that baby like theres no tomorrow. Did it for about 4 years (young, dumb and loved the street). Until now......I hate water.
 
#29 · (Edited)
you will not hurt your engine by taking it past 3000 rpm's the engine is made to withstand at least 6000 rpms (more like 7000) like its been stated just dont sit at stop lights bouncing on the rev limiter. I have owned at leat 20 civics with over 185xxx miles and i reved them past 6000 with no problems. And personally i would swap the intake to stock during the winter to be on the safe side cuz its pretty hard to suck snow thru a stock airbox. Iv messed with zc's and sohc and personally i would just slap a z6 or y8 head on your stock bottom end and leave it at that. SOHC's are so much simpler than DOHC, change a timing belt on a DOHC and then change a timing belt on a SOHC you tell me which is easier lol and see how much valvetrain and camshafts cost for a twin cam and a single cam and tell me which is cheaper...... Single Slam FTW!
 
#30 ·
http://www.hmotorsonline.com/shop/sc2000search.cgi?what=page&item=30021

i was also looking at this D15B engine, compaired to the z6, again, bolts up to tranny, just will need new ECU for it, vtec subharness?

sorry for bringing so many options, but if i do this, i wanna make sure i dont jumjp the gun on the first engine that might be good, and find something better later

i appreciate ya'll helping me out
 
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