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Discussion Starter #1
buddy at work informed me about something i've been interested in for a while

i love my little 92 civic 4dr with a passion, and would much rather keep it instead of buying any other car from a dealership ( no monthly payment and low insurance :D ) and also want to make it a little more fun to drive

so here's what i'm getting at, and if you could give me a hand or point me in the right direction for the best correct answers, i'd be more than happy

i currently have a d15b7 engine, and i hear a good way to get a little extra power and make my car more fun to drive at the same time is to get the d16a8 ( ZC ) engine DOHC, i know i can get the d16z6 sohc, but prefer the d16a8

D16A8

* Found in:
o 1988-1995 Civic/CRX/Concerto (UK/Europe/Australia)
o 1990-1995 Rover 216/416 GTi(UK/Europe)
+ Displacement : 1590 cm³
+ Bore and Stroke : 75 mm X 90 mm
+ Compression : 9.5:1
+ Power : 125 hp (93 kW) @ 6800 rpm & 108 ft·lbf @ 5900 rpm
+ Valvetrain : DOHC
+ Fuel Control : OBD-0 MPFI
+ ECU Code: PM7
that info is what wikipedia has shown about the engine, looks as if it was used in the 88-95 civic's over seas but not america, so my main question is, will the d16a8 bolt right up to my tranny ( 92 honda civic LX 4dr D15b7 is current ) and what else would be needed to do the swap?

thanks in advance guys!
 

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90 CRX Si
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Should bolt right up. Only thing need for the swap would be the proper ECU and the conversion harness (Like 2 plugs) for the dizzy, as long as the motor is OBD1, if it's obd0 i'm not sure if you'd need something else or not. You can order one of these, known as the DOHC ZC, from many sites, such as hmotorsonline.com.
 

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formerly allnaturalrex
1989 honda crx si
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trust me the dohc zc isnt worth it to a certain point of course. stay with the b7 or get a d16z6 . trust me if done right you wont regret it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
allnaturalex, may i ask why it isn't worth it? the more info about this i can get, the better, thanks :)

i'll check it out xotic, know anyone with experience with this motor in particular?
 

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90 CRX Si
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trust me the dohc zc isnt worth it to a certain point of course. stay with the b7 or get a d16z6 . trust me if done right you wont regret it.
Agreed. Go with a Z6 or a an A6 if you don't want vtec. You could use the b7 head/dizzy on any 1.6 bottom end and build either of those.
 

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Well the ZC's are harder to find parts for typically, and i've heard they have problems with the heads, but thats just local guys telling me that.

I have a buddy who had a ZC in his 90 hatch, and it was quick, but he fubar'd his head beating it too hard. It felt quicker than my mini-me, but we never got to run them, plus my setup was never right.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
vtec or not, i dont really mind, the entire point is just to make my car more enjoyable, and i'm sure i could do that with a vtec engine, but a non vtec is just fine as well

now this is were i get a little noobish on ya so bare with me

i'm not exactly sure what all the OBD1 and OBD0 mean, and the term dizzy has yet to be explained, if you could clear that up, i'd appreciate it

Well the ZC's are harder to find parts for typically, and i've heard they have problems with the heads, but thats just local guys telling me that.

I have a buddy who had a ZC in his 90 hatch, and it was quick, but he fubar'd his head beating it too hard. It felt quicker than my mini-me, but we never got to run them, plus my setup was never right.
even with the D16a8 in my car, i probably wouldn't push it too hard, i'd still take care of it like i do now with my d15b7, but knowing i could push it a little harder than the d15b7, but still to a certain extent, so that being said, should the head be ok?
 

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vtec or not, i dont really mind, the entire point is just to make my car more enjoyable, and i'm sure i could do that with a vtec engine, but a non vtec is just fine as well

now this is were i get a little noobish on ya so bare with me

i'm not exactly sure what all the OBD1 and OBD0 mean, and the term dizzy has yet to be explained, if you could clear that up, i'd appreciate it



even with the D16a8 in my car, i probably wouldn't push it too hard, i'd still take care of it like i do now with my d15b7, but knowing i could push it a little harder than the d15b7, but still to a certain extent, so that being said, should the head be ok?
Well, if you're trying to perk up a DD, then you could go with a vtec motor. I swapped to a z6 so i could have pretty good mpg while having god power when i got into vtec. I still made good mpg w/ my old a6 setup though.

Dizzy means distributor.

OBD means On Board Diagnostics. OBD0(read OBD Zero) came in cars from 88-91 on hondas, and OBD1 is on 92-95 cars. Then you have OBD2 on 96 up. OBD1 is what you have, and if you get a motor, you should try to get an obd1 motor.

I think you would be ok with it as long as you don't overrev it.

BTW, try searching and reading the stickies. They help alot.
 

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formerly allnaturalrex
1989 honda crx si
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Well the ZC's are harder to find parts for typically, and i've heard they have problems with the heads, but thats just local guys telling me that.

I have a buddy who had a ZC in his 90 hatch, and it was quick, but he fubar'd his head beating it too hard. It felt quicker than my mini-me, but we never got to run them, plus my setup was never right.

exactly
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
shit, i dont even let my d15b7 go over 3000 rpm's, 4000 rpm's max lol, i baby that damn thing, but maybe thats why it runs well still :)

even after i swap out the d15b7 for either a z6 for vtec, or a8 for a non vtec motor

so what your getting at, is if i found an obd1 motor i wouldn't need a new ecu? if thats correct, the d16z6 should be odb1, but the d16a8 was used from 88-95, so it falls into the two categories you mentioned for the ecu since it was used during the era of 88-91 ( obd0 ) and into the era of 92-95 ( obd1 )

would it matter that this engine was only used outside of america?

xotic, i really would like to thank you for the help you've given me, much respect for you, i really do appreciate it bud :)
 

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Well they offered an obd0 and obd1 ZC. And no, it doesn't matter if it was used outside of the US. Be careful if you order a ZC, there is a SOHC(same as d16A6) and the DOHC, the one you're talking about.

Now you will have to change ECU's for either of these, but being obd1 you won't have to change harnesses. You can either get your ECU chipped with the proper fuel/ignition map or buy the right ECU

ECU for d16z6 is called the P28, ZC is PM7. For the Z6, i think you'll have to get a vtec subharness for vtec to work.

Not a problem, i'm not too far removed from being in your shoes.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
so since it'll bolt right up to my tranny, all i'm looking at for a ZC is a new ECU, and if i look into a z6, i'm looking into a new ECU and possibly a vtec subharness

http://www.hmotorsonline.com/shop/sc2000search.cgi?what=page&item=30022

thats the D16a8 ( ZC DOHC ) its says 88-92 civic, so it should be cool? $599.00 or $799.00 with ZC transmission

didn't see a d16z6 on hmotorsonline

do you have experience with hmotors and are they behind their word on a good motor and tranny? i see 800.00 bucks for new tranny and engine not to be a bad deal
 

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They seem good, i've had buddies get their motor from there, but i ordered mine from another place. Hmotors only carries the d15b, not the d16z6, but it put out the same power.

Here's the vtec subharness i was talking about.

Now, with that being an obd0 motor, i am not sure exactly if it all plugs right in. I know in a crx its a direct drop in with this dizzy adapter.
 

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shit, i dont even let my d15b7 go over 3000 rpm's, 4000 rpm's max lol, i baby that damn thing, but maybe thats why it runs well still :)

even after i swap out the d15b7 for either a z6 for vtec, or a8 for a non vtec motor

so what your getting at, is if i found an obd1 motor i wouldn't need a new ecu? if thats correct, the d16z6 should be odb1, but the d16a8 was used from 88-95, so it falls into the two categories you mentioned for the ecu since it was used during the era of 88-91 ( obd0 ) and into the era of 92-95 ( obd1 )

would it matter that this engine was only used outside of america?

xotic, i really would like to thank you for the help you've given me, much respect for you, i really do appreciate it bud :)
when ur done take that motor to 7,200 rpm honda motors love 6,500 to 7,200 rpm:p
 

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If you want more power in your DD then just take it past 3000 rpms. Your not even making full power at 3000 on your current engine. Floor it and youll be happy. The cars can def take alot more than 3000 rpm and run perfectly well. Whats the point of swapping in another engine that never sees past 3000 rpm therefore never sees its max hp? Just my opinion.
 

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Worst Mechanic Ever!
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lets not, i like to take care of my cars
Seriously, if there is nothing WRONG with the engine, take it to redline while accelerating, its fine, the honda redlines tend to err on the side of caution. Just don't cruise with the tach pegged at 6000!!! :D

Also, if I were you, I would try to get the Z6, or the D15B (vtec). Both handle turbo's great if you want to boost. People typically grab a t3 off an old saab and build a turbo kit. Or you can just do light n/a mods to pep it up a bit.

OR, you could keep the B15B7, get an A6 cam and Y7/Y8 cam gear, Z6im and enjoy THOSE benefits. Theres really a lot of options, you should do a search for D15B7, it's a better motor than most people think.

BTW, I have only heard praise about Hmotors. Supposedly, the guy is really picky about what motors he picks up from japan, so I've never heard of him selling any duds.

Good luck with whatever you decide on. Picking the motor can be the hardest part!
 

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Well?
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www.hmotorsonlie.com has an OBD1 DOHC ZC for 599. The trans is 150 more. You need to call them, they have one its just not listed. I almost baught this motor. They really are good motors. unless you can find something cheaper than that local, id say go with it. The SOHC Vtecs only lay down about 110 to the wheels where as a DOHC ZC will lay down closer to 120. Webcams make cams for it and you can run your OE ECU and get it chipped with a P29 basemap and it will work fine, or if you can find one you can get a P29 ECU
 
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