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96 sedan DD all stock except cold air intake and 4-2-1 header. 236k miles on original motor/trans bought the car with 56k miles. ( I drive it like I am an old lady/I don’t drive like I stole it) Car started to stall/cutout so I parked it. Bought a used motor and trans with 156K . Had the block honed and a valve job done on the head. Had the machine shop check the crank, rods and pistons and all were within specs. I put Honda rings on the pistons and bearings on the rods and crank. Used new Honda head bolts and ARP assy lube and torqued every thing to specs from the manual I downloaded from Hondatech.info.
Reassembled the engine and made sure the crank was at TDC using the crank “gear” index mark lined up with the arrow on the block and the cam gear was lined up with the index marks on the plastic cover with the word UP and arrow at the 12 o’clock position then I put on the timing belt and tensioner and rotated the assembly about five or six times and verified all marks were still in alignment. Also as the up arrow on the cam gear was at about 3 o’clock (turning the crank counterclockwise) the intake valves on the #1 cylinder were opening. I reinstalled the original engine harness that came with the car and the original distributor, alternator, A/C compressor and P/S pump. New battery.
Finally got the thing to start and it would start and run fine for about 5 or so miles then it would start to hesitate/cutout but never died. Never drove it more than about 10 miles at a time. Had a check engine light that was the secondary O2 sensor and no other codes even with the hesitation. Drove it about 20 miles and that is when it quit and wouldn’t restart. Don’t know if there were other codes after it died. BTW it will crank, low oil pressure light goes out. It seams that sometimes it will try to fire on one cylinder or that its firing into the header. (don’t know if that makes sense) Had it towed home and that’s when the shotgun came out. Thus far I have tried a new coil and a new ignition module with the new coil still installed and a new crank position sensor (the one by the crank "gear") with the other two new components still installed. I have triple checked the computer is hooked up and all the other connectors are hooked up. I have checked with an ohm meter the resistance values for the CKP, TDC, and CYP sensors in the distributor are within specs per the manual. I have verified voltage and grounds to the coil and ignition module. I have verified resistance to the crank position sensor on the crank “gear”. I have verified continuity through / from the sensors to the computer and that the wires weren’t shorted to ground.

Before I spend any more money on this I would really like some suggestions on what to do .
 

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89 teg 99 ody 3.5
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Sounds like the timing may have jumped or isnt set correctly.Did you check the marks and make sure the timing was still at top dead center after it died and you got it home?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks for the reply and yes I double checked all the index marks with the crank pully off just to make sure. put it all back together and then decided to replace the crank sensor by the crank gear. My gut feeling is a sensor in the distributor but want to verify first. Is there any way to test this distributor? BTW it is a D16Y7. I didn't put that in the original post.
 

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89 teg 99 ody 3.5
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you might also check compression just to make sure youve got good readings on all four cyl just in case something went sour internally.usually if theres a faulty sensor it will drop the check engine light and throw a code.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I do need to do that, put about 40 miles on it after the rebuild before it quit. Frustrating!
 
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