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96 Civic
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Discussion Starter #1
now i know arp says to only put the studs in hand tight into the block... then wouldnt the studs turn while tighning up the nuts to me i would think to give them a little snug with the allen key hole they provide on the top of the stud would this be a problem
 

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I think they recommend that so if anything snugs up after installation you won't crack your block (since they're studs, and not bolts, which don't bottom out). I'd prob go with arp's knowledge on this one.

By the way, mine didn't seem to turn at all while torquing the nuts. Lady at arp said you only need a certain amount of thread engagement on the bottom end to achieve the clamping force required, and hand tight will certainly get you there.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited by Moderator)
I think they recommend that so if anything snugs up after installation you won't crack your block (since they're studs, and not bolts, which don't bottom out). I'd prob go with arp's knowledge on this one.

By the way, mine didn't seem to turn at all while torquing the nuts. Lady at arp said you only need a certain amount of thread engagement on the bottom end to achieve the clamping force required, and hand tight will certainly get you there.
yea im going with arps specs ... just to me that hand tight dosent seam like the studs would be in the same amount to ft lbs and how much ft lbs could you possibly do by hand

I would ASSume that the hex hole in the top of the stud is for easy of REMOVAL, not install...
yea i guess that makes sense
 

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yea im going with arps specs ... just to me that hand tight dosent seam like the studs would be in the same amount to ft lbs and how much ft lbs could you possibly do by hand
It shouldn't matter how tight they are in the block. You're dealing with clamping force, between the part that's threaded and the nut, which is torqued to specific spec. Someone correct me if I'm off on this, but that's how I understand it.
 

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i snug mine down to make shure they bottom out and then back then off a little
Actually, I did that too to make sure I had good thread engagement, threads clean/no trapped air and whatnot, but I didn't use the allen key for final seating in the block.
 

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They do if you overtighten them. I've seen Where some one put an Allen socket on their torque wrench an torqued the stud to 70lbs then installed the head an torqued the nuts. About halfway through it cracked the block. Pretty sad really.

IMO arp needs a little better instructions in it's kits. I mean it's a 2inch by 3inch piece of paper with faded writing and even then some of it contradicts(if you've read it you kno wut I'm talking about)

Hey ARP how bout decent instructions maybe a do's and don'ts? FAQ???
Just my thoughts. Ps I used the Allen head just to make sure they all bottomed an that was it. Been goin strong for 4-5k miles
 
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