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The Master Fabricator
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The key with ARP's is to retorque them after about 10 Heat cycles. I went to 65ft/lbs drove the car 'slowly' for 10 heat cycles (get the car up to operating temperature, and let it cool down completely)
After 10 heat cycles, I retorqued to 70ft/lbs...

This is with ARP moly lube... Only use ARP Moly Lube, as it ensures more torque consistency.
 

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arp bolts and studs are torque spec'd based on the pre-load force required in the application. when you "torque" them they are stretched to a certain percentage of their yield strength which means they are deformed "elastically" and can spring back to their original length if removed. if you go over the yield strength you will cause plastic deformation and they will be in a state of partial failure right from the start and more likely to yield and break. i dont know how many extra ft.lb of torque it might take to reach that point but they were expensive enough for me not to test it. not to mention the threads in the aluminum block that have to hold the load...

my $.02
-tony
 

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The Master Fabricator
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Jeff Evans (AKA boosted hybrid) and Chris Miller of NRG Tech both told me to go between 70 and 75ft/lbs... I followed teir directions...
 

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i think i did 70 ft/lbs. i can't really remember though.
 

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I can't read...
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Jeff Evans (AKA boosted hybrid) and Chris Miller of NRG Tech both told me to go between 70 and 75ft/lbs... I followed teir directions...
would you say definetly do this on high boost applications?
 

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use arp moly lube and their specs, its 60-65 i think. its been almost a year since i did mine. there is no need to go over their rated torque from arp. more is better=bullshit. if you blow an oem head gasket with arp's torqued to what arp says then you have OTHER problems.
 

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The Master Fabricator
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would you say definetly do this on high boost applications?
I did it on mine, and I think I did it on Miked16z6's motor also...
If Jeff Evans tells me to do something, I'll trust what he says over 99% of the people giving advice on the net.
 
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