Im going to run 10-11lbs on my stock sohc zc vtec with ARP head studs and a fresh head gasket. The turbo is a small IHI ball bearing turbo that comes with some APEXi kits. At 10-11lbs with that turbo, do you guys think that ARP rod bolts should be installed or should I just leave it stock and not open it up until I decide to fully build it later?
ARP rod bolts needed? (searched)
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I was already getting ARP head studs...I was just wondering about rod bolts. If I get the rod bolts, should I buy new bearings as well? The motor only has around 45k on it and I've ran synthetic in it since I've had it back. That's odd that you guys say I need the ARP's...I was hoping to hear that I didn't need them. I read tons of threads where people were running 10-12lbs on bone stock bottom end with no problems but I do wanna be safe...do ARP rod bolts even help out that much?
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406 Posts
you don't need arp rod bolts. unless you plan on over revving your engine.
i'm running 10 pounds with t3/t04e 63/70 running way lean with no timing , bouncing off the rev limiter all the way down the street. fucker hasn't blown up yet
i'm running 10 pounds with t3/t04e 63/70 running way lean with no timing , bouncing off the rev limiter all the way down the street. fucker hasn't blown up yet
sweeet, thanks guys. That's what I was hoping to hear. Just wanted to make sure.
i wouldnt take the time to run them on factory rods, but thats just me
just dont make more than around 200 Wheel pounds Toruqe....and over 220 WHP ....this seems to be where the engine gets weak....PSI is just a number!!! damit....and it doesnt matter.....different Turbo;s will spit out different PSI numbers...and bigger the Turbo= less PSi....more Umph and higher HP/TQ...Smaller Turbo= More PSI...less Umph and or to achieve that Wheel HP goal/TQ goal...
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why bother putting in new rod bolts while using stock rods? Do a full rebuild and get a bigger turbo...
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well I know... lol... duh...
yea I know psi is just a number. Im trying to make right at 200whp and 175wtq. From what I've seen, that's around what kind of numbers people are getting at 10-11lbs with small turbo's like mine. I don't plan on going over like 215whp until I do a full build with a bigger turbo. Thanks for the replies!
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371 Posts
Torque is the real number you have to worry about. Torque is the direct stress on the engines, pushing over 200wtq is where you begin to stress the rods. A good tune will keep them from breaking, but they can only hold so much force.
Keep your timing conservative and you won't need the ARPs. I'm making 210whp and 167wtq with no stock head studs in a Y8.
Keep your timing conservative and you won't need the ARPs. I'm making 210whp and 167wtq with no stock head studs in a Y8.
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2,215 Posts
No need for rod bolts, but head studs and a new headgasket never hurt...
Idk I was talking to an engine builder he was askin me about my rods and he said i should check out ARPs page, I went there and I was inlightned...there is a heavy stresses on the Rod bolts...yes the stock rod bolts have held together but being a automotive ethusist as everyone here is there going to press hard on there motors...its a fact, Im not saying that you need ARP's I honest dont have enough experience with Hondas Rod bolts to know there integrity and I would listen to the people with more experience ut I like to play it safe so when I play hard I dont have to worry...
http://www.arp-bolts.com/Tech/Tech.html
http://www.arp-bolts.com/Tech/Tech.html
well that's a nice breakdown
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