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00' Honda Civic EX
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Discussion Starter #1
Im going to run 10-11lbs on my stock sohc zc vtec with ARP head studs and a fresh head gasket. The turbo is a small IHI ball bearing turbo that comes with some APEXi kits. At 10-11lbs with that turbo, do you guys think that ARP rod bolts should be installed or should I just leave it stock and not open it up until I decide to fully build it later?
 

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yea 10-12 pounds is pushing it jusssst a lil it might be fine at first but after a while somethings gonna snap....but yea id say spend the $ on some arps there good cause ur head will probly lift without them
 

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Potato salad!
93 Civic HB DX
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298 Posts
Yes, that's right on the edge. Get the ARPs and be safe. Having to rebuild it later is less fun.
 

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00' Honda Civic EX
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Discussion Starter #5
I was already getting ARP head studs...I was just wondering about rod bolts. If I get the rod bolts, should I buy new bearings as well? The motor only has around 45k on it and I've ran synthetic in it since I've had it back. That's odd that you guys say I need the ARP's...I was hoping to hear that I didn't need them. I read tons of threads where people were running 10-12lbs on bone stock bottom end with no problems but I do wanna be safe...do ARP rod bolts even help out that much?
 

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you don't need arp rod bolts. unless you plan on over revving your engine.

i'm running 10 pounds with t3/t04e 63/70 running way lean with no timing , bouncing off the rev limiter all the way down the street. fucker hasn't blown up yet :)
 

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00' Honda Civic EX
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Discussion Starter #8
sweeet, thanks guys. That's what I was hoping to hear. Just wanted to make sure.
 

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yup..... need and want are sometimes two diferent things.... I would just to be safe..... shit they aint that much more....
 

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yellow bar for me
viper blue 92 eg
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i wouldnt take the time to run them on factory rods, but thats just me
 

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EX coupe
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just dont make more than around 200 Wheel pounds Toruqe....and over 220 WHP ....this seems to be where the engine gets weak....PSI is just a number!!! damit....and it doesnt matter.....different Turbo;s will spit out different PSI numbers...and bigger the Turbo= less PSi....more Umph and higher HP/TQ...Smaller Turbo= More PSI...less Umph and or to achieve that Wheel HP goal/TQ goal...
 

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00' Honda Civic EX
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Discussion Starter #14
yea I know psi is just a number. Im trying to make right at 200whp and 175wtq. From what I've seen, that's around what kind of numbers people are getting at 10-11lbs with small turbo's like mine. I don't plan on going over like 215whp until I do a full build with a bigger turbo. Thanks for the replies!
 

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Torque is the real number you have to worry about. Torque is the direct stress on the engines, pushing over 200wtq is where you begin to stress the rods. A good tune will keep them from breaking, but they can only hold so much force.

Keep your timing conservative and you won't need the ARPs. I'm making 210whp and 167wtq with no stock head studs in a Y8.
 

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nough said...ARP head studs and a head gasket has been the plan since day one. I won't be using any different rod bolts! Thanks!
 

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92 Hatch
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Idk I was talking to an engine builder he was askin me about my rods and he said i should check out ARPs page, I went there and I was inlightned...there is a heavy stresses on the Rod bolts...yes the stock rod bolts have held together but being a automotive ethusist as everyone here is there going to press hard on there motors...its a fact, Im not saying that you need ARP's I honest dont have enough experience with Hondas Rod bolts to know there integrity and I would listen to the people with more experience ut I like to play it safe so when I play hard I dont have to worry...

http://www.arp-bolts.com/Tech/Tech.html
 

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Black Dynamite
1991 HONDA Civic
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5,880 Posts
just dont make more than around 200 Wheel pounds Toruqe....and over 220 WHP ....this seems to be where the engine gets weak....PSI is just a number!!! damit....and it doesnt matter.....different Turbo;s will spit out different PSI numbers...and bigger the Turbo= less PSi....more Umph and higher HP/TQ...Smaller Turbo= More PSI...less Umph and or to achieve that Wheel HP goal/TQ goal...

well that's a nice breakdown
 
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