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Discussion Starter #1
Hei all d-series users and preformance!
I have a quesion
About 3 month ago i rebuild d16y8 for turbo
And dony install turbo and arp head studs
In friday i will install the turbo
But the question is:;
Can i install the studs without remove the engine head?,just replace the all bolts and close?( of course with torque)
 

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Ive done it before, probably isnt recommended though.

I removed one bolt and replaced it with the stud and torqued it down to the first stage, around 15-20lbs or so. Once all the studs were in I tightened them down with the recommended pattern.
 

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94 Integra
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If it was a 400whp beast, I'd say change the gasket.
^This. If you really want to take shortcuts on things (like installing studs one at a time without removing the head) then be sure your end state can handle it. 250-300 hp street toy? Sure, why not? On the other hand, a serious engine build requires serious prep work. I suppose it all comes down to your goals and what sort of time and effort you are willing to invest.
 

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1992 Civic DX Hatch
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People reuse MLS head gaskets all the time. Seems like it would work to me. As Danz say no worse off it does not work.
 

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Don't replace the bolts one at a time. Back them off in sequence 1/4 turn at a time so you don't end up warping something. Then re-torque with the new studs in sequence with two stages to spec. Might as well give it a try with the same gasket. I've reused a oem MLS gasket and head bolts before on a NA H22A without problem.
 

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Sloppy Jalopy
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I've done it , engine lasted till the ringlands broke ..probably due to the piston ring gap being too tight.

untorqued them all in sequence but still some tension then one at a time changed the studs
 

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Don't replace the bolts one at a time. Back them off in sequence 1/4 turn at a time so you don't end up warping something. Then re-torque with the new studs in sequence with two stages to spec. Might as well give it a try with the same gasket. I've reused a oem MLS gasket and head bolts before on a NA H22A without problem.
Dont follow this advice, your less likely to cause a leak if you do 1 at a time. However, do it when the motor is cold, tq to 20, then 35 until they are all done, then come back and tq to 65. You want that last tq step to be a large jump for accuracy
 

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ej8
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Ssme willa say yes others will say no.

I say do it once the right way and be done with it.

Sometimes the HG acts as a crush washer and sometimes it doesnt seal right after being lossen.

I wouldnt trusted it. As saod do it right the first time or do ot twice and get some work in.
 

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Order up a gasket and try doing it one bolt at a time. if the gasket ends up leaking then just swap in the new gasket and do the right way. if it doesn't leak then just hold onto the gasket because more often than not you will need it in the near future
 

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EG5T
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I just did this a month or so ago:
With the engine cold, I loosened up a bit N10 oem bolt, then torqued it to 30Nm(the first step, according to the manual), then N9 and so on, until all bolts were at 30Nm.
Then I completely unbolted N10 bolt, chased the threads, sprayed some brake cleaner, and using a syringe with a piece of thin hose on it I kept changing the brake cleaner, until it came 100% clean. Then I installed the arp stud and using the lube I torqued it to 30Nm. The same happened with bolts N9, 8 and so on. All the bolts were replaced by the studs(and all torqued to 30Nm), one by one, the rest is easy to guess. The engine had no problem lasting 5-6x10 min sessions at the track without blowing the hg and is still running just fine.
 

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94 Integra
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I wouldn't recommend cleaning them while the head is still on, and I'm not sure if I'd recommend chasing the threads unless you know they're messed up.

For cleaning them there's an easier way. Most small hardware stores have narrow pipe cleaning brushes. I got a nylon brush that was ~10" long and 3/8" wide (bristles & twisted wire to hold them). I cut the handle off, mounted it in my hand drill, sprayed cleaner in the holes, then spun the brush counter-clockwise while pulling out. It will get ever bit of grit out. Looks like this: https://www.etrailer.com/Tools/Fastenal/814113.html
 

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I replaced one at a time on my tdi. I did this 12k miles ago and it still runs awesome. I pulled to valve cover after 1k miles to retorque and none of them needed it. LIke said before worst case scenario you have to due a headgasket.

FWIW the tdi is 19.5 to 1 compression and only see's 14-19psi, different animal but same concept.
 

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Just do it right and replace the headgasket and head.... better safe than sorry, if not sorry not knowing for sure... You will have no second guessing this way. My 2 cents.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks Everybody for replay!
learning alot for yours replay!
have a good day!
 
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