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Discussion Starter #1
ok so i seem to be having a hard time finding a write up on how to do this. they include the assembly lube and all that but there are no installation instructions at all. so i just screw them down into the block as far as they will go finger tight then torque the head on to spec? so i just apply the assembly lube to the threads? do i have to use there assembl lube or can i use my own? what is the flying land speed of the yellow bellied swarbler? this is for a z6 block/head but i thought the z6 had one short bolt but they all appear to be the same length? any help would be appreciated.
 

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They are all the same length but when you stick them in the block the one near the dizzy in the top corner will stick up farther.

You can use your own lube and im pretty sure there was suppose to be a spec sheet that has tq specs for other lubes besides theirs.Since you don't have the sheet call and ask if you want to use their tq specs.Their customer service is very nice.Sounds like you know what your doing.
 

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torque oem specs just hand titten and thats it
 

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I have mine at 70ft pounds in 3 steps 30-50-70..

I have heard a bunch of numbers thrown out there about what is a good amount with people saying everything from oem spec to 80 ft-lbs.I just heard 70 from rota92 on td16 and rolled with it.Holds 20 psi fine is all I know.That's why I recomend calling if you just want to go with what they say
 

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You can use your own lube and im pretty/QUOTE]

NO. wrong. use the ARP lube that it came with i would not recommend usein anything else but that stuff
 

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Ferio inspired
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You can use your own lube and im pretty/QUOTE]

NO. wrong. use the ARP lube that it came with i would not recommend usein anything else but that stuff
no, your wrong. you can use HP (high pressure) moly lube, since its the same stuff. you can use engine oil, but the torque spec is higher (80ft lbs). but you may not get as accurate or consistant as using moly.
 

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steps to install arp head studs:

1) clean threads using a tap
2) hand tighten them down
3) using a allen key, check to ensure they are snug
4) once head is installed, apply moly lube to the exposed threads left on the studs
5) install nuts on studs
6) tq nuts to specs on box for the stud size and lube used (i did a three step. 20-40-70)
7) 2k miles later, check tq

:done:

info is on the instruction sheet that comes in the box. :TU:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
ya the instruction sheet didnt come in the box. i pick them up brand new for 80 bucks cause he got the wrong ones. ok so the general consensus seems to be 3 step torque. 20-30/40-50/70 final torque. and apply the lube to the thread doing into the block. hand tighten all the way down then snug with the allen key. put the head on and torque away. relativly simple. i will probably be doing this tonight. should have the rest of the bottom end assembled by sunday. just having some issues with my stupid ring compressor. i might be picking a new one up tomorrow aswell. i got lots more picks. i have a thread in the boosted section if anyone wants to check it out. here is the link
http://www.d-series.org/forums/showthread.php?t=84040
 

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no, your wrong. you can use HP (high pressure) moly lube, since its the same stuff. you can use engine oil, but the torque spec is higher (80ft lbs). but you may not get as accurate or consistant as using moly.
exactly..

I called and asked arp if I could use moly lube other then there own,because I didnt get any or the washers that go with the kit and had to find out a price on them so I could have my friend at jegs sell them to me.70 pounds on my own moly lube has held 20psi fine so far.

and yea the only thing I know of you can clean the block thread out properly with is a tap.
 
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