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Discussion Starter #1
i was just wondering if z6/y8 valves are the same as A6 valves, and if there is a diffrance in a A6 head, and just any old d15 head(like the ports, i therd that A6 flow better)
thanks
 

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A6=Z6=Y8 valves. As far as flow goes, personal opinions start to swirl here...but I personally stick with the Z6, but that because I'm boosting.
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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Okay, then where can I buy after market valves for a a6 head& springs? Every where I look there only for z6 and y8....
Spintech Valves (sp., not sure what I have) and Bisimoto valvesprings
 

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A6=Z6=Y8 valves. As far as flow goes, personal opinions start to swirl here...but I personally stick with the Z6, but that because I'm boosting.
Woah... definately incorrect here. A6 valves are different diameter than the z6/y8 valves.


Here's the choices we carry as far as standard and oversize from Supertech and Si Valves/Rev Valves.


Supertech Racing Valvetrain Kits: Authorized Dealer

D16A6: 192lbs. Open Pressure, [incl. 8 Exh. Seat Locators] - $289.00
D16Z6/Y8/D17: 166lbs Open Pressure, $289.00

Supertech Valves: (All Black Nitride coated)

D16A6/D15B Non-VTEC: Standard size/Dish Face - $225.00
D16Z6/Y8/D17 SOHC VTEC: Standard size/Dish Face - $225.00
D16Z6/Y8/D17 SOHC VTEC: 0.5mm Oversize/Dish Face - $225.00


Isky Valvesprings and Retainer Kits: Authorized Dealer

D16A6: [email protected]” Open Pressure [incl. 8 Exh. Seat Locators] - $289.00
D16A6: valvesprings only, can be used with stock retainers: $139.00
D16Z6/Y8: [email protected]” Open Pressure - $289.00


Rev Valves/Si Valves: Authorized Dealer
* Swirl polished Stainless Steel Valves

D16A6/D15B Non-VTEC: Standard size/Dish Face - $189.00
D16A6/D15B Non-VTEC: 1mm Oversize/Dish Face - $189.00
D16Z6/Y8/D17 SOHC VTEC: Standard size/Dish Face - $189.00
D16Z6/Y8/D17 SOHC VTEC: 1mm Oversize/Dish Face - $189.00
 

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Classic Man
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Nope. They are PM3 castings. The cams and springs are different, and that's about it. (As long as you aren't talking about the 8-valve Hf engine.)
i wonder about how true it is that the springs are different.. because honda doesnt say so.. honda lists the same spring for Si and DX (a6 and b2). anyone who knows for sure chime in. i currently have a b2 head im building for my a6 motor, and can easily get my a6 springs swapped over. but why bother if they are the same?:redface:

Genuine Honda CRX SPRING, IN. VALVE (NIPPON HATSUJO)
Honda Part#: 14761-PM3-013
Year Area Transmission Trim
90 KA5MT 2DR SI
90 KL5MT 2DR SI
88,89,91 KA5MT,KL5MT 2DR SI
88,89,90,91 KA4AT,KA5MT,KL4AT,KL5MT 2DR DX


Genuine Honda CRX SPRING, EX. VALVE (BROWN) (CHUO SPRING)
Honda Part#: 14762-PM3-014
Year Area Transmission Trim
90 KA5MT 2DR SI
90 KL5MT 2DR SI
88,89,91 KA5MT,KL5MT 2DR SI
88,89,90,91 KA4AT,KA5MT,KL4AT,KL5MT 2DR DX
 

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()*#$(*$
93 Legend L Coupe.
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They are NOW the same part number, but only because the 1.5L springs were superceded by the 1.6L springs. The Original springs should be OK when used within the stock limits, but who wants to be limited to 6.5K or under when swapping a cam that was made to make power higher than the car's original fuel cut?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well i just rebuilt a d16a6 all back to stock 2000 miles ago, and i rebuilt the head too, used the old valves just re grinded them(they have like 200,000 miles on them) so thats why im wanting to build a new head, port&polish(my self), bigger cam(im thinkin about a exospeeds stage 3), new valves&springs-idk, not going to be spinning the motor any faster than stock, so could i get away with new stock springs and valves?
 

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()*#$(*$
93 Legend L Coupe.
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11,404 Posts
Dude, if you are going to build a head, why limit what your engine can do with stock springs? A SOHC can reliably spind to over 8500RPM. It doesn't cost too much more to do that and get the benefits of being able to move more air through the engine!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I didn't kno that a stock d motor could be spun 8,500rpms... but what would your a pinion be if you had a 700-800 dollar budget(using my tax check, lol) including the cam, springs, valves...
 

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()*#$(*$
93 Legend L Coupe.
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11,404 Posts
I would clean up the head myself and have it milled a bunch, get some ARP rod bolts for the rods, and spend the rest on the cam, springs, and a valvejob. You wouldn't even need the valves, but +1 on the intake side seems to be the way to go. Granted, to make power at 8500RPM you are going to have to work almost everything, but if you build the head right the first time, as your experience grows you can tweak or replace parts and work on getting your to your goals, which is what you need to decide before doing any of this stuff. Heck, I could almost rebuild the entire engine and get most of the stuff for the head for $800. To do a good job of it, though, it might cost a bit more. However, you'll now have a head and a fresh engine. *shrugs* It's all up to you.
 

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but +1 on the intake side seems to be the way to go.

For a mild setup, I would be more comfortable with a standard size valve. The only way I'd do the oversize valves on a D-series engine is IF, its a high hp turbo motor or its a fully built N/A motor with a fully ported cyl head and increased compression. Oversized valves on a pretty much stock head or even a mild port, can hurt the performance on a D-ser.
 
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