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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I didn't want to hijack the thing on the blazer, so here goes. Friend of mine has an '86 S-10 with a 2.5L I-4 manual in it that was running like a top a couple weeks ago. Suddenly, the starter refuses to crank (no clicking from the solenoid either), and if the vehicle is push-started, it runs fine--even while shifting--until it comes to a complete stop, at which point it dies. Jump starting doesn't fix it, the battery tested fine, and all electrical accessories (wipers, radio, headlights, etc.) work fine.

I don't even know where to look. Nothing I can come up with can explain both problems (they did start at the same time). Any suggestions would be appreciated.

(This truck is probably possessed, so it's not a huge surprise; a couple times it played creaking noises through the speakers when they weren't even plugged in, and if the radio is disconnected and the dome light turned on, all the dash lights turn on, including highbeams and turn signals...but if the radio is plugged in, everything works fine...)
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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check the BIG wire going to the starter, likely corroded. That or the solenoid wire is corroded/chafed/broken.

Typical of a Chevy/Pontiac "Iron Duke" motor. My 1978 Monza did the EXACT same thing, only you can't push start a automatic........
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, I'll check that out when I visit him in a few weeks.

As for the stalling at idle...that could be one of a hundred things. Guess I'll have to do some extensive wire checking too.
 

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check to see if both wires are still connected to the starter, all time power and keyswitch. the keyswitch wire may have become disconnected for some reason, maybe something was thrown up, or it was just corrided, like transzex said. oh, and the motor is a 2.8L s-10s never came with a 2.5 only had a 2.8 in the early ones and a 4.3 in the later ones.
 

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S-10's came with 2.5L, 2.8L, 4.3L.

The 2.5 was called a Tech 4 if I remember correctly. It was an Isuzu motor and noisy as hell. 2.8 was easily the crappiest V6 ever on the market, no power. 4.3 was 75% of a 350, not the worst engine.
I have had the 'pleasure' of owning all three. GM is why I like Jap cars so much.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yeah, the air cleaner says 4-tech or something to that accord.

Noisy? It would be quieter if it actually had a muffler... It runs great, just stalls out when trying to idle. It normally did this when it was cold, but now it's all the time.

The starter problem (hopefully) shouldn't be too hard to find. Stuck selenoid, maybe?
 
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The 2.5 has been around for years it's a GM motor, They even put it in some boats for the marine devision. That motor will last forever. The reason it gets noisy is it has timing gears and as they wear they tend to get noisy. You need to start with the basics. Check for a good conection at the starter and battery. Use a test light to make sure you have power to the large lead all the time and the S terminal when you crank the key. Make sure that it didn't get put on the R terminal somehow. You can also do a voltage drop test. Use a DVOM (volt meter) hook one end up to the starter and other to the batt. Set it on DC voltage and crank it over. This will tell you if the cables are good if its high your losing current. It shouldn't be over 1 volt. There is also a clutch saftey switch I think. You might check for voltage there if you don't have it at the starter. Ignition switches also burn up from time to time.

The dying at stops is probably another problem all together. I'd check the IAC. Make sure it's clean. Also, the EGR valves are notrious for sticking open and leaning out cyls 2 and 3. Sometimes even burning holes in the pistons. My first step would be a can of carb cleaner and hose the TB out and throw some injector cleaner in the tank.

Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for all the input. In 3 weeks I get a chance to fix that thing, and I need as much background knowledge as I can find.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well, here's the news. (This thread comes back from the dead!)

Bad idle: The wire from the ignition coil to the distributor wasn't all the way on.

Radio stuff: There was a ground not properly connected in the dash. (Duct tape is not a valid connector!!!)

Failing to start: There's a flat lead coming out of the starter that's ziptied to a bolt on the solenoid. I think there's a wire on the old harness that plugged right into that spade lead, but it's apparently not used anymore. The thing wobbles inside the starter, and if it's jiggled, the motor will crank. If its started and then killed, apparently some connection is just opened on the end of that lead and it just don't go.

Anyone know what that lead on the starter itself is? I don't think it was the main starter lead, its WAY too small. It's on the end closest to the front of the motor (or, if its in a car, it would be the end farthest from the tranny.)
 
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