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I feel like a noob for asking this, but I just can't remember how I plastigaged the last time I worked on a motor. Just don't want to plastigage this one wrong.

When you set the crank into the block do you put assembly lube on the bearings where the plastigage isn't touching (block side) and the leave the side that plastigage will be on (girdle side) dry? Or do you leave both sides (block/girdle) dry?
 

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when you plastigage, you don't put lube y0.


assembly lube is what it is. To use it when you're starting to assemble everything...

go plastigage and see if everything is within specs. Then proceed.
this^^^^^
 

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A great way to scrape it off when your finished is to use a popsicle stick.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I know you have to assembly lube everything before assembly. So when you plastigage no lube on block side? Obviously not on the girdle side since the plastigage will be sitting on there.
 

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I know you have to assembly lube everything before assembly. So when you plastigage no lube on block side? Obviously not on the girdle side since the plastigage will be sitting on there.
I put lube in the block and the bottom bearing and leave the gurdle side dry so i can plastigauge it (Im lazy and dont want to lift the crank out after gauging to lube up lol)

in most cases im betting your using off the shelf bearings like acl or king which are all the honda "green" STD size gauging is a good idea to make sure its all within spec, if its too loose or to tight you will need honda OEM bearings to dial the specs you want in.

I had to do this in the d17 crank into y8 block build since one of the king bearings was a little on the loose side.

it also depends what your building but ive always aimed for the tight side of OEM spec just to have it run longer and more miles, if you build it loose and the bearings wear a bit overtime they go out of OEM spec and start to cause oiling issues
 

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I assume you are doing this on an engine stand :

*Turn block upside-down to access crank area
*Make sure journals are free and clear of dust/debris/etc (I use brake clean)
*Install main bearings into block journals
*Lay down strips of plastigage on the mains
*Lay crank slowly into the block
*Install main bearings into girdle
*Install girdle onto block
*Torque girdle bolts per factory spec (I believe it is a 2-step torque sequence)
*Remove girdle bolts
*Remove girdle
*Carefully remove the crank
*Using the provided Plastigage measurement papers, find your oil clearance.

***Almost anything with a clearance of .002 or smaller is good.***
 

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I do it with the gauge on top of the crank to save my back lol
 
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