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my name says Guest, but Im really a MEMBER
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Discussion Starter #1
Customer Complaint: lights on the dash flashing including battery. Battery light not going away without revving the engine.


Pull it in nothing. The air big light is on. start it a few times, rev it, let it sit. Start it and I see the battery light. I used a real nice advance midtronics unit we have to do a system test. Battery tests battery after recommend charging. continue with test. and tester doesn't detect rpm increase during charging test. So I'm like ok, mind you the battery light is not solid on.

Put my volt meter on the battery and it's charging at idle under a heavy electrcial load. Maybe I checked for voltage drops accross the + and - first, but then I seen it charging. I swore I seen it not charging, but I was thinking maybe the battery is so bad the alternator is being over worked.

Replace battery, lights still flashing. FUCK! I put my meter back on and revving up the engine it's not charging???? usually it'll charge at higher rpm and not idle or neither. Double checked voltage drops, figure since it's charging at idle there's control. Replace alt. working.

Point of the story Any one else come across a alt. that charges excellent at idle and then not do anything revved up???? ( the engines in situation are known for oil leaking on the alt.'s).
 

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Classic Man
Civic
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16,355 Posts
You could do a diode test on the alt, maybe its failed? But that would be more of a paracitic issue, right?

IDK what to say man, do an alt load test. Make sure its working at all RPM.

Also, did you check for the alternator ground to make sure to the block its good? Also check for voltage drops at the grounds and battery connections?

IDK what else to think of.
 

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my name says Guest, but Im really a MEMBER
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Discussion Starter #3
You could do a diode test on the alt, maybe its failed? But that would be more of a paracitic issue, right?

IDK what to say man, do an alt load test. Make sure its working at all RPM.

Also, did you check for the alternator ground to make sure to the block its good? Also check for voltage drops at the grounds and battery connections?

IDK what else to think of.
Alt. has been replaced and is working great. I'm sharing this case study.


I did look a/c ripple well I thought I did, testing that is new to me.

yeah, that's the problem it wasn't charging at all rpm. only at idle and under a heavy electrical load, which through me.

Voltage drop across power and ground both under 100mv.
 

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Premium Member
90 crx si/96 accord
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788 Posts
What's the year make an model? I can take a peek on identifix for ya....
Did u scan it? I had a ford escape throw a b code for an alternator charging circuit before....
 

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my name says Guest, but Im really a MEMBER
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Discussion Starter #6
not a honda

07 hyundai santa fe 3.3


Ya know on these newer cars you need to check more often for codes with more and more modules with diagnostic capability. But no I don't pull any codes.


ELD not sure, exactly what inputs the computer is using to control the alt. or if it's all done by the regulator.
 

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my name says Guest, but Im really a MEMBER
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Discussion Starter #7
What's the year make an model? I can take a peek on identifix for ya....
Did u scan it? I had a ford escape throw a b code for an alternator charging circuit before....

Identifix rocks! Love seeing 50+ fixes for something, go right to said hose or whatever and sure enough.

I wish I still had access to that site. I'm the only one in the shops I've had it in that would post fixes.
 

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Premium Member
90 crx si/96 accord
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788 Posts
Number: 458428
Vehicle Application:
2007 Santa FE 3.3

Customer Concern:

The alternator stops charging at times. It will either sit at 12 volts and discharge or it charges at 14.2 volts.

Average Reported Mileage:
64000

Tests/Procedures:

1. Look to see if the valve cover is leaking oil in to the alternator. If it is, the alternator is likely malfunctioning due to the oil contamination. Can try to clean the oil out of it and recheck the charging system performance.

2. Voltage-drop the alternator ground between the alternator case and the negative battery post. Verify that the voltage drop is less than 0.2 volts.

3. Scope the White alternator field return wire at terminal 3 of the alternator. It should be charging voltage and the Engine Control Module (ECM) should pulse the voltage to ground to maintain charging voltage.

4. Verify charging voltage from the alternator stud, Red wire to the positive battery post through the 150 amp alternator fuse.

Author:
Robert Johnson












Potential Causes



With OEM Direct diagrams, components, TSBs, and R&R procedures




Alternator




Alternator Ground




Alternator Sense Circuit










Confirmed Fix Summary



With OEM Direct diagrams, components, TSBs, and R&R procedures




Confirmed Fix
3 - Alternator

when I click the quick link for the search bar alternator was in the top three most searched items......just like anything else check the connector...test the ground for no more than...I forget what it is right now.....no more than .5 volts on the ground right?

I found the oil leak thing kinda interesting!

im gonna keep looking but trying to make dinner right now lolz
 

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Premium Member
90 crx si/96 accord
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788 Posts
Oooops... I see that you've already fixed it....but ya...there's a bunch of reported fixes ..some for the harness as well as the ground...a couple junction block repairs as well.
That's the tough part about being a electrical tech nowadays...so many circuits are tied in together... one module goes an it takes out the entire network!
 

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my name says Guest, but Im really a MEMBER
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10,488 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
getting to the connector to do testing on these alt's are a pain. maybe at the computer would be easier.

the fact that it had the oil leak, and was charging consistently with a load at idle i figured there has to be control. not charging when rev'd use new to me.

I still want to do more digging on how it's controlled.
 
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