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Discussion Starter #1
With my auto Transmission. Aside from swap it to a manual :D

I'm about to start a z6 build for the hatch I got. When i joined here last year I had my sedan which i did end up swapping to manual and mildly building. However The hatch needs to stay automatic to facilitate having one of each for different driving conditions (the 5spd and auto will probably switch after i move).

Obviously the bulk of the info floating around is based around the assumption that it is a 5spd car. I know which stuff for the most part will carry over. But i'm curious what else I can do to this thing while it's auto until later when i can fully unleash it's potential.

So far I have done the basics, CAI, decent brand 4-2-1 (not ebay), and the apexi ws2 exhaust running through a high flow magnaflow cat. Also looking at either a blox or skunk2 IM as an early christmas gift.

My head went out and was gone over with the usual multi angle valve job, pressure test, cleaning and resealing etc. Cam is going to delta this week, not sure which grind I am going to go with, probably a 260 unless someone recommends something higher. or something comparable pricewise that would do me better.

I was mainly planning on leaving the block internals stock (maybe shot peening the stock rods) aside from having a machine shop give it a once over. Is it worth changing any block internals at this time, or should I just keep that on hold until i am able to perform a 5spd conversion?

I know the tune is the most important and i have the money properly set aside to do so once the motor is in the car.

any advice and such would be welcome. you can laugh at me too :D as long as i get some help somewhere in there
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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you failed to explain what you are trying to do.

Honda Slushies shift at 6k to save them, build torque, intake manifold not needed.

Mill head for compression, instant usable torque. Avoiding running up thru the gears at WOT.

500k miles between my two automatics, both shift great still, fluid changes EVERY 15k miles or 2-3 oil changes. I'm on a 7500 mile oil change schedule, about every 10 weeks.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ooh my bad. Sorry Bone and thank you for correcting me.

My goal is straightforward. Get the most usable power I can out of an a/t motor setup without wrecking my transmission. Also trying to not blow money on upgrades that are not worth their return on the investment in my case. I am looking to have a spirited daily driver/road trip car to take out and about when I don't feel like rocking the manual sedan. To be fair I would like to build this engine with a little more power than I ran in the sedan as it will be swapped to manual in the future (with the sedan going back to auto)

Bone, if ya check this again, anything i can do to tweak the auto tranny, and/or how would I get a hold of you if i wanted some work done?

that aside, I hope that helps clear up what i'm looking to do ultimately. I admittedly don't have any firm power goals in mind, mainly looked at this in terms of what is worth being done now as opposed to post conversion (which may still be a bit off) as well as what can be done safely without wrecking the autobox.
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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Think 3-4 psi at 3000 rpm, I don't work on automatics

Automatics have a different power band, 3500-5500 for example. It won't be as fun as a 5 speed car, but done right you can provide some misery!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Think 3-4 psi at 3000 rpm, I don't work on automatics
aww that's a shame, I have some money to kick around you're pretty legendary, and that's not brown nosing ;)

thanks for the advice by the way, I was expecting the 20+ posts of...convert it first like i got last year.

Should I build the bottom end according to the powerful street n/a thread? Or do I not want/need to with my setup. I didn't really touch my bottom end on the last build other than getting it cleaned up, but I also did relatively little to it as a whole other than mild headwork.
 

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me personally i would get a small turbo that would build boost really early. maybe an
rh5b from a mx-6, but i dont know what your tuning options as far as the automatic goes. like bone said 3-4 psi would give it a nice kick in the ass and i dont think that would be too much power for the automatic
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have been leaning towards turbo as well, simply for cost vs effectiveness. I am relatively certain from my research that I'm not going to see the proper gains from a full n/a build on the automatic transmission, even with a rebuild of the unit.

I'll look into the units you mentioned. I think my tuning options shouldn't be that much less than a standard, but they will be different. This is really just a for fun thing. I don't expect to break record times. I'm content with..."hey, thats pretty good for an auto...you should still swap it though"

I'm going to keep this open for more people to chime in. I'm gonna take the car to the wash this afternoon then start a build thread.

thanks for the opinions, keep them coming! I know auto is really unpopular, I guess that's part of why i want to see what can be done on it.
 

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as far as tuning goes you can chip and tune an auto ecu just like a 5 spd ecu but trans parameters are not adjustable but all the engine stuff is. I just dont know who around our area would tune it not many options
 

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Discussion Starter #9
as far as tuning goes you can chip and tune an auto ecu just like a 5 spd ecu but trans parameters are not adjustable but all the engine stuff is. I just dont know who around our area would tune it not many options
i have some people who were recommended but i'm not sure if they are legit or not, i'll be sure to fill you in.
 

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FF Misfit
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A budget turbo build at low boost would probably be the best/most fun per $ bet. You would be fine w/ the usual HF mani w/ adaptor plate, dsm 450's, 14b turbo, dsm bov, etc.

As for the i/h/e you already did, was there any noticable difference in the overall performance or fuel mileage w/ the auto? I'm assuming there has to be some but want to see if it's worth the coin for me to throw bolt-ons on my fiance's civic for her.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
A budget turbo build at low boost would probably be the best/most fun per $ bet. You would be fine w/ the usual HF mani w/ adaptor plate, dsm 450's, 14b turbo, dsm bov, etc.

As for the i/h/e you already did, was there any noticable difference in the overall performance or fuel mileage w/ the auto? I'm assuming there has to be some but want to see if it's worth the coin for me to throw bolt-ons on my fiance's civic for her.
compared to bone stock there is a noticeable difference in pull. Obviously this is a feel thing as I don't have before/after track times or dyno's The car feels more responsive overall, with the CAI probably providing the greatest single "feeling" of increase, though to be fair that may have been because i didn't even have 25 miles on the car when i did the header and exhaust.

From what i remember of the stock b7 in my sedan when i first regged here, much stronger. GF drove me to work today and she said how different it felt if that helps.

if i boost, for something as small as i'm looking will I need to upgrade the fuel delivery? or are stock internals doable? I have researched N/A extensively, so the switch to boost put me back to reading again :)
 

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FF Misfit
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if i boost, for something as small as i'm looking will I need to upgrade the fuel delivery? or are stock internals doable? I have researched N/A extensively, so the switch to boost put me back to reading again :)
Techincally speaking you could get by w/ the stock injectors however they'd be close to their maximum duty cycle so the 50$ for DSM 450's is cheap insurance. I also just checked and saw that the 97+ Prelude Injectors are 290cc so you could probably also find a pair of those for cheap to avoid having to wire in a resistor box and all that jazz (just make sure you specify the 97+ injectors.

As for stock internals, since you're just looking to add a little pep you should also be fine w/ the stock z6 internals. Once you being to go over 200 hp I would consider building the bottom end however since you don't want to waste the auto I doubt that would be an issue. The main concern I think you might have is head lift if you decide to up the boost over 10 lbs however this is easily remidied w/ ARP head studs.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I already have arp studs waiting to go on when i put the engine back together.

rods are stock but shot-peened at least. Not touching 200hp at this point in time. My ultimate plan is when I move to CA :( for grad school to change this car to a manual, then build it much stronger while it is out of the car. In keeping my 1 auto 1 manual, then replace the mini me with an auto dohc engine just for something different, or if i'm broke then just switch the mini me back to auto.

i'll look into the injectors, those prelude ones are drop ins? Also that means I will need a fuel rail and aftermarket regulator correct?
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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If your planning on moving to CA, don't bother building the car, check into the CARB rules for inspection and such
 

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FF Misfit
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I already have arp studs waiting to go on when i put the engine back together.

rods are stock but shot-peened at least. Not touching 200hp at this point in time. My ultimate plan is when I move to CA :( for grad school to change this car to a manual, then build it much stronger while it is out of the car. In keeping my 1 auto 1 manual, then replace the mini me with an auto dohc engine just for something different, or if i'm broke then just switch the mini me back to auto.

i'll look into the injectors, those prelude ones are drop ins? Also that means I will need a fuel rail and aftermarket regulator correct?
From what I've read they should be drop ins.
 

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Well?
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is the z6 for the auto or a b7? If its the z6 the trans shifts at 7200 WOT, atleast my y8 does. Im going to be getting the delta 260 as well for my car. If your OBD1 your lucky, you can really tune the car with Crome, im stuck to piggybacks. A 14b would be crazy fun on an auto, but if your looking for quick and reliable, go ahead and leave the stock intake mani on there nad get the 260 and tune it.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
is the z6 for the auto or a b7? If its the z6 the trans shifts at 7200 WOT, atleast my y8 does. Im going to be getting the delta 260 as well for my car. If your OBD1 your lucky, you can really tune the car with Crome, im stuck to piggybacks. A 14b would be crazy fun on an auto, but if your looking for quick and reliable, go ahead and leave the stock intake mani on there nad get the 260 and tune it.
Quick and reliable is the name of the game. right now the z6 will be auto because it's the engine thats on the stand and has no home currently. The z6/b7 mini me is already in my sedan and more or less at a point that I can leave it be.

i have both transmissions at my disposal, though if i'm going to boost i'm leaning towards the z6 transmission. I am probably going to go with the boost kit off the mx-6/probe and run it around 4 psi. This guy is most certainly obd1 ;) I already starting looking into chips and tunes, as it seems regardless what i do that is where any performance is going to be unlocked, especially on an a/t

thanks for not just laughing me out of the thread guys. I'm really curious how this turns out. and how long until I blow my trans lol :pinch:

if you come to CA, why not just look into getting the greddy kit and keep it at stock boost?
I'll look into the greddy kit when i get there, right now the n/a stuff i have is all 50 state carb legal, so at worst if i needed to yank my boost off for inspection then reinstall it i have the option. The other thing about greddy is the price. I have a lot of money out already, but I could do a homebrew for significantly less than the greddy kit from my quick searches. Right now i'd like to take that money getting the car as a whole where i want it (i'm also doing suspension upgrades and some interior work along with the engine). After that I will look at my options for CA.
 

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Well?
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if and when you boost an external cooler will help, lifting at the shift so you dont boost through the shift will help extend the life of the trans. Im hoping to get into the low 16s with my new car, i ran 17.2 like 3 days before i wrecked my last one so we'll see
 
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