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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
ok i got a few questions and instead of posting 4 questions im gonna post in here.


question 1
i got stock bore 75mm Y8 what size cometic HG should i use? there is a 75.5,76,77,78,79mm gaskets
question 2
whats the ECU i need for my Y8? P28 with a OBD2 to OBD1 jumper? chipped with w/e i wanna tune with
question 3
with a intake manifold is short runners better for a forced induction build?
question 4
i know about the WEAK oil pump with the Y8's what should i do about this?? i have read about drilling it out to allow more oil or is there a aftermarket pump out there?
question5
should i use a block guard???? i hear good and bad but in not 100% positive about them


i think thats all my questions but i dont know i might have more seeing this is my first build and im not 100% positive on what i need to do and use so i do make a big cluster fuck. o yea and im not doing the building im buying all the parts and haveing a engine builder build it good.
 

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Registered
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216 Posts
ok i got a few questions and instead of posting 4 questions im gonna post in here.


question 1
i got stock bore 75mm Y8 what size cometic HG should i use? there is a 75.5,76,77,78,79mm gaskets
question 2
whats the ECU i need for my Y8? P28 with a OBD2 to OBD1 jumper? chipped with w/e i wanna tune with
question 3
with a intake manifold is short runners better for a forced induction build?
question 4
i know about the WEAK oil pump with the Y8's what should i do about this?? i have read about drilling it out to allow more oil or is there a aftermarket pump out there?
question5
should i use a block guard???? i hear good and bad but in not 100% positive about them


i think thats all my questions but i dont know i might have more seeing this is my first build and im not 100% positive on what i need to do and use so i do make a big cluster fuck. o yea and im not doing the building im buying all the parts and haveing a engine builder build it good.
Question1: If you are oem bore, go with an oem gasket.

Questiosn2: ECU, go to xenocron or phearable and tell them what you have and they will provide the proper ecu for you, chipped for a good price imho, they even include a base map. A p28 will work if you are sohc vtec, you will need to chip it if you what to do everything yourself, there are dozens of combos you can use ecu wise, best advice for ecu's go to pgfmi.org they are all the honda ecu info in the goddamn world, use the search feature over there. Yes you will need the jumper harness, make sure you buy the right one there is an A and B version of the harness depending on model year of your car.

Question3: Intake manifold: This really is debatable since most all aftermarket IM's cost a shit ton of money for the gains on a street motor, you already have one of the best factory IM's for the d-series motors on your y8. When you stay with a plenum style intake manifold, short fat intake runners will kill your low end, IMO from my research the best IM thats a plenum style thats a good comprimise for where most D-series street engines make their power is the Edelbrock performerX. It has an angled throttle flange though so if you already have a CAI you may need to modify it, some have some say it just works. If I were to get an IM that would be the one for NA, otherwise if you are going to go to extreme build 160whp+ land read up on ITB's and go that route because they give you the best powercurve, plenum IM's can and do make more peak whp but over a narrower rpm range, more power under the curve is what is wanted and wins everytime.

Questions4: OIL PUMP, PORT IT, just get er done on that one if you are doing any sort of y8 build. Or you can get a z6 one and drill apparently machine a dipstick hole on it, I read this recently and it requires more research if anyone more in the know can elaborate on this subject.

Questions5: Block guard. Is this N/a or boosted? Because if its N/A why even bother with a blockguard? If you are gonna boost high, save for wet sleeves if its gonna be your Daily, otherwise go with the standard boosted fanfare of what ever you can afford to put in the block an dstay with in the limits of your components. IMO Fuck Blockguards/posting, do it right, sleeve it and crank it the fuck up =D To do a blockguard correctly I understand you have to bore the cylinders back to round again, as with anythign that puts stress on the cylinder walls, which in that case will effect your question #1 with what ever the machineshop tells you they have to take off the bore to get her round again.
 
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