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its basically just a light show if its not a wideband...they can only read a certain number properly but i cant remember what that is...
 

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its completely worthless for tuning...but can be handy if you have a sudden fuel issue. These guages only really measure the extremes of your AFR. so if it goes red...pull over and check everything.
 

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Normal O2 sensor "narrowband" give a 0-1 volt signal. At .5 volt your a/f ratio normaly are at 14.7(where the engine make less emission and still have "good" power for crusing)When you are at a constant speed, the signal oscillate between .5(normaly from .3-.4V to .6-.7V) and when you are at WOT the signal are completely useless because the ecu normaly aim a 13-13.5:1 a/f so the signal are always in the .6-.7-.8Volt(WOT)... If you buy a kit-gauge that only read narrowband you will only know if you run lean or rich but will not know how lean or how rich!
A wideband normaly give a signal between 0-5 volt(normaly between 10:1 and 20:1 a/f ratio) and give the EXACT a/f ratio at ALL time!

I recommand you to buy a wideband....
 
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that will only work during full throttle operations,. the rest of the time it will be 100% wrong. if you want a tuning one then get the new aem one witht he wideband O2 and gauge together for about $299 most places.
 

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eg6motion said:
its completely worthless for tuning...but can be handy if you have a sudden fuel issue. These guages only really measure the extremes of your AFR. so if it goes red...pull over and check everything.
lol, just cruising they will bounce from extreme lean to extreme rich the whole time. red wont mean anything
 
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i have an autometer A/F ratio gauge and i agree with the other guys, it's crap! i'm gonna save and do it right and probably go with the aem wideband.
 
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