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92 eg
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cheap... the pressure plates that come with it feel softer than stock. and the stage 1 breaks apart after a while


 

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92 eg
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really?? fuckkk..... ugh god dam, i mean it looks like a decent clutch though? would putting a oem clutch disc be better? or what. i can't return it now though. i have a d15b7 102 hp at the crank though lol would that beat the shit outta the clutch?

that clutch will fall apart on you and has happend to plenty of people. stock oem clutches should be fine close to 160-200hp as far as i know or seen
 

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86 MR2
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XTR ,F1 and Spec seem to be the ones to avoid due to so many people having bad experiences with them. oem is good if you're stock/near stock and don't plan on auto-xing, track weekends or anything strenuous
 

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86 MR2
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They're claimed to be "performance" or "sport" clutches by their advertising. So it's a given that people will "rat" on them, right? Hence the "you get what you pay for" saying. Was looking at these for my gze build but said screw it and plunked down the extra for an ACT since it's sc'd and it may see the boost being cranked up in the future
 

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Discussion Starter #11
lol yeah true, im not going to be rat bagging my car though..so idk. should i pick up a stock oem clutch disc then or idk, it also seems hit and miss like some guy said some last and soem dont..

"Originally Posted by blueDA9
ive had an ebay xtr clutch in my teg for about 12,000 miles now, still chirps 3rd with ease.

same here. the company is actually XTD, but for some reason they sell as XTR on ebay. ive got two years, 2 autocrosses, a drag strip night, a road race event on mine, and its a mildy-modified daily that can still chirp third. for $150 you cant go wrong. i bought the stage 3 with the 6puck sprung disc and modified pressure plate, kept the stock flywheel. do it, you wont be mad."
 

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Discussion Starter #12
"have been using a XTR Ebay stage 1 racing clutch with a lightweight f1 flywheel on my single cam vtec for over a year with no problems so far. The clutch is still grabbing, and I can chirp second with my weak ass shit. No major mods here tho so that may be why its still alive but im very happy with it for being so cheap. Im thinking about getting another for another build"
so for a bone stock car.... should it last? and would getting an oem clutch disc be worth looking into?
 

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92 eg
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its a hit or miss. but most times its a miss and the only xtd xtr f1 clutches that work sort of are the higher stages ones or the pucked ones. just the stage 1 has the most problems.
 

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86 MR2
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Well it's really your call, and again it's either a hit or miss with these clutches. If you want, use the clutch you have now and cross your fingers that it doesn't give you problems. Your other option is buy from a reputable name/oem brand for peace of mind.
 

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I had a f1 stage 1 clutch hoping that it was gona grab hard but it was softer than oem and didnt grab for anything. I ended up getting a 6puck and chirped 3rd like a boss. I would just go oem or exedy oem with a 7lb flywheel. That should last longer depending on how hard you drive your clutch.
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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Centerforce Dual Friction is all you'll need.

Comes with a stock PP painted orange.





You'll also want a heavier than 7 lb flywheel depending on application. 11-12.25 is what I liked.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
well my clutch now shutters engaging first gear, springs or bearing in it are fucked, if you hold the clutch in too long the clutch gets sticky and stiff, and makes an old squeky spring noise when pushing in, it shutters putting it into first say im driving into a driveway or parking lot, doesnt put enough pressure to shift in some gears and catches on every gear halfway into gear. and also the clutch grabs at 3/4 of the way out not half way out so its like almost at the top. what part of the clutch is soft the disc or the pressure plate? i originally wanta center df clutch..but im a full time student tuitions expensive..lol
 

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1971 VW Super Beetle
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im looking at ACT clutches, they are on summit racing, im assuming theyre good quality clutches as they are 3-500.. whats the difference in a 4 pad and 6 pad disc? as opposed to a normal style ceramic disc?
The friction material used is so grippy they use less of it to dial in the right amount of grip. Or so I read somewhere a while back. Correct me if I am wrong. It almost sounds like you need to bleed your clutch. Since you have a b7 I assume you have a hydro clutch. Holding the pedal a long time and having it fade and start to grab sounds like a hydraulic issue not a mechanical issue of the pressure plate.
 
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