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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys , i've done a jdm d15b swap in my 93 sol si and here is my problem: the car won't start.
What happened? After the swap i turned the key to ACC to check the fuel lines. At this point everything was working fine (the blower inside the car ,the fuel pump, the light on my dashboard/cluster .....) . I did it 3 times (turn the key to ACC , check the fuel lines and turn off ). Then i've decided to crank the engine. I turned it and i heard a sound like a fuse that blown and nothing happened ; all the light on the cluster went off . I've checked my engine compartiment fuse box and i've found one blown fuse (yellow 20A fuse). I don't even know if that was already blown when i got the car and it was running without it. But it was the only blown one that i could see. I took a look on the fuse cover for the diagram and it says that the yellow 20A is the CONDENSATOR fuse. (please take a look at pics-sorry for the quality). My car had a AC. I took it out when swaping ( i don't want it) and all of its plug are not connected Here comes my questions:


1- Can a blown condensator fuse cut all the power?
2- Why is it blown? What mistake did i do?
3- Is there any solution? What should i do?
4- Would the fact that i took out my AC be the cause?


5- WHAT CAN I DO TO MAKE THIS CAR START - PLEASE HELP.

Also different question, can you drive without the o2 sensor? If yes , is there any problem?
 

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yikes!

Electrical problems are the most difficult to diagnose....

Could be anything from a blown ecu to a melted wiring harness causing a short.

Did you check all the fuses under the dash also?

You don't need the O2 sensor to start the car. Until the car gets up to temp it's running open loop (spraying the ammount of fuel directly specified from the ecu fuel maps with no feedback from the O2 sensor). But once it reaches operating temp and goes into closed loop it will freak out, throw codes and run rich.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Is there a main circuit fuse ( or ecu fuse ) in the under dash board fuse box that can cut the power?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Come on guys. Lets help a bro in trouble.

I did checked every single fuse. There is only one (7.5 A) that was blown. But i do remember that i've blown one (the dome light one) when i was installing my alarm two months ago. The car was running fine without it. The only place that i have power is at the battery (of course) and at the engine bay fuse box.

What can make all my dash board lights go off? Will a blown ecu do that?

I really don't know what to do? Where to find the problem and how to checked the wire at the engine?

The engine came with a manual p08 ecu. How to convert it to an auto ecu so that i can use it in case my ecu is blown. I'll have to find the what is the problem before sacrifying an other ecu in case.

Thanks for all your help guys. I really appreciate it.
 

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I am just saying it because it happened to me but my CAI shorted on the Positvie battery post. it didn't blow any fuses but makes sure it isn't touching. Cause it did the same thing you describe. got to crank and hear a popping sound and then nothing!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I am just saying it because it happened to me but my CAI shorted on the Positvie battery post. it didn't blow any fuses but makes sure it isn't touching. Cause it did the same thing you describe. got to crank and hear a popping sound and then nothing!
I'll check that. I'll just remove it and see what happen. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Engine started but check engine light on

Engine just started. Problem: bad connection between the chassis and the battery ground wire . Some sand paper and a wire brush and it came to live. Thanks to all of you .
Now here is my new problem. Except that i have a cracked manifold (don't know how did i do that - wasn't like that before the swap; might be the hammer) , the check engine light is on. I've splited the brake booster vaccum line to use my purge solenoid.

1- Is it normal because it's a jdm d15b and not a z6?
2-If anormal , what can i do? What should i look for?
3-Can it be due to the leak in the manfold?

The engine came with a manual d15b ecu.

4- Should i use it instead of my original p28?
5- If yes how to convert to auto? Is there anyone in Boston that can do that for me?

Thank you very much.

pic of my new mani from ebay
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
My ecu is throwing a code 19 ( LOOK UP CONTROL SOLENOID) and a code 22 (variable valve timing and control pressure switch) . For the 22 ,i think i know what is going on. My plug is broken and i tried to fixe it with electrical tape. Looks like they is no connection between the wires.

1- I wanted to know if i can just eliminate the plug and attache the wire together and use electrical tape .
2- For the 22 , i wanted to know if that is a big deal. What this solenoid stands for ? Can i drive the car like that until i fixe it. Am i taking risk of breaking something?

The fact is that i didn't drive the car since the swap and due to that CEL. Can i do it safely?

3- I've splited my brake booster vaccum line to use the purge solenoid. Is that a problem?

Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
It's running!

It's running , it's running! :IHI: :IHI: :IHI: :p All the cels are gone and i took it for a ride. It's was awesome. Thanks to everybody.

Last questions:
1- is it ok that my engine runs cooler than my old z6?
2- Is it normal that at iddle it's hoter than when driving ( sorry if it's stupid)?
3- Is there any recommendations i should follow before i can really taste it ( i've been extremely easy on the engine so far while driving)?
4-Does it make a difference if you have more coolant/antifreeze than normal?
I mean like only 10-20 % of water instead of 30-50%. Because that's is what i might have. Can that be the reason why it's running cooler. Just wanted to let you about my coolant/water ratio in case that can be a reason.

Thanks again to everybody. I'll post all the pics as soon as i uploaded them in my computer.
 
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