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1997 Civic DX Hatch
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Discussion Starter #1
to make a long story short. im upgrading my audio system and im looking for some info and understanding of the right way to do this.

i want a 10" and 12" sub both with there own box.

i bought a sub from my neighbor who is sponsored by a sorta local to me audio shop.(he competes in audio comps and does rather well)

the sub i got from him is a 12" hifonics 1200w peak 600w RMS

(heres is were i need help)

so is it important that i get my 10" at 600w RMS? then i have to get a 1200w RMS amp?

or am i able to get for example a 350w RMS 10" and 1000w RMS amp and it all work fine?

also ohms is a problem. the 12" i bought is 4 ohm dvs

would it be best to have a 4 ohm dvs 10" too?

then what ohm should my amp be 1 ohm or 4 ohm?

your help is much appreciated.
thanks.
 

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Premium Member
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Rms is how much power the speaker can handle continuously.
The ohms is the impedance measurement. You wanna match the rms power and speaker impedance to your amp.

You can wire the speakers to match your amp also.
Check this site out
Basic Car Audio Electronics
 

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1997 Civic DX Hatch
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Discussion Starter #5
okay i will check that out. thanks.

so from some other reading ive been doing on crutchfield ive found the best way to do 2 dvc 4ohm subs would be bridge a 2 channel amp and bridge the subs as well.

so if my 2 subs are 600w RMS i would want a 2 channel amp rated at 1200w RMS am i thinking of this correct?
 

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You don't "bridge" the subs. Since it's dvc( dual voice coil). You would have to wire it a certain way, either in series or parallel. Or both. For sub amps, mono ( mono meaning one channel), amps would be ideal. So either an amp running at 1 ohm or 2 ohms is what you want to get.

For ex, I have 2 subs that are single voice coil with an impedance of 4 ohms. My mono amp runs most efficient at 2 ohms so I would wire my 2 subs in parallel( neg to neg to neg on amp, pos to pos to pos on amp), that will bring my speaker impedance to 2 ohms, to match my amp.
 

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HONDA
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You don't "bridge" the subs. Since it's dvc( dual voice coil). You would have to wire it a certain way, either in series or parallel. Or both. For sub amps, mono ( mono meaning one channel), amps would be ideal. So either an amp running at 1 ohm or 2 ohms is what you want to get.

For ex, I have 2 subs that are single voice coil with an impedance of 4 ohms. My mono amp runs most efficient at 2 ohms so I would wire my 2 subs in parallel( neg to neg to neg on amp, pos to pos to pos on amp), that will bring my speaker impedance to 2 ohms, to match my amp.
This

I might also add amps don't always output what they say they do. Example most amps come with a chart when purchased new and display and example like 1000w @ 1ohm 500w @2 ohm [email protected] 4 ohms this basically means if you wire your subs at 4 ohms to the amp the amp is only going to push out 250w this is where a lot of people mess up and wonder why their system isn't banging


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you could run an amp for each sub but i would scrap the 10 and get an eight inch sub for the sound quality and the 12 for the power
 

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1997 Civic DX Hatch
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984 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
You don't "bridge" the subs. Since it's dvc( dual voice coil). You would have to wire it a certain way, either in series or parallel. Or both. For sub amps, mono ( mono meaning one channel), amps would be ideal. So either an amp running at 1 ohm or 2 ohms is what you want to get.

For ex, I have 2 subs that are single voice coil with an impedance of 4 ohms. My mono amp runs most efficient at 2 ohms so I would wire my 2 subs in parallel( neg to neg to neg on amp, pos to pos to pos on amp), that will bring my speaker impedance to 2 ohms, to match my amp.
okay thats making sense now. not only wattage but ohms have to match up too.
this is what i meant about "bridging" the subs. but you explained better.



according to crutchfeild 2 channel bridged to 4 ohm and 4 ohm on both subs would be rather slammin lol.

This

I might also add amps don't always output what they say they do. Example most amps come with a chart when purchased new and display and example like 1000w @ 1ohm 500w @2 ohm [email protected] 4 ohms this basically means if you wire your subs at 4 ohms to the amp the amp is only going to push out 250w this is where a lot of people mess up and wonder why their system isn't banging



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right. i didnt even think of that. i would have made the same mistake so thanks man.

you could run an amp for each sub but i would scrap the 10 and get an eight inch sub for the sound quality and the 12 for the power
at this point my understanding is subs should be the same size if running multiples.

the sound quality will decrease if done like that.

sound quality can be increased by having good front and rear speakers installed.
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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What are you running for the front end?

Always get as much amp as you can afford or limited by power level by the class you plan on competing in if you do.

Also what car?

Normally two size differences works best when doing a mid-bass and a sub.

6.5 coaxials or components up front, 8" mid-bass firing forward between the front seats from the back (thinking CRX/gutted Civic HB) then a 12-15" in the spare tire well.

Using a 5 channel amp, the fronts would run of channels 1-2, 250 Hz and up, channels 3-4 would run 80-100 to 250 Hz bandpass for the 8" sub, then channel 5 80 Hz and down on the sub.

Crossover points may be different depending on musical tastes.

Former TeamROCs member.

Welcome to teamROCS

PS: I've been out of the industry for quite sometime, like since 1998 when I got into autocrossing.
 
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