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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, when I swap a D16Y8 into my D15Z6 I used my distributor cause it has inmovilizer, but the car has a very irregular ilde, up and down between 1000-1500 when cold as when hot.

So we advanced the distributor a little and the ilding problem got solved.

The question is:

How can I know if the distrib is at the right position or if its advanced/retarded?

what are the consecuences of going with an advanced distrib?

I read about people with my mods that had dyno porved that an retarded distrib make more Hp (with my mods)

Any suggest?
 

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Hi, when I swap a D16Y8 into my D15Z6 I used my distributor cause it has inmovilizer, but the car has a very irregular ilde, up and down between 1000-1500 when cold as when hot.

So we advanced the distributor a little and the ilding problem got solved.

The question is:

How can I know if the distrib is at the right position or if its advanced/retarded?

what are the consecuences of going with an advanced distrib?

I read about people with my mods that had dyno porved that an retarded distrib make more Hp (with my mods)

get a timing light. also what ecu are you using? advancing too far will cause loss of power, fouled plugs, and possible detonation.

retarding ignition in the high end can increase performance. too far will cause it to burn lean or become hot resulting in burning the tops of the pistons. you will see if you pull the plugs and it looks like pepper or glitter on the porcelain part. this also denotes possible detonation.
running too hot will also burn the catalytic converter, melting electrodes if improper heat range is used.

get a timing light hook power cables to battery and the one that has a hook thing hook that to cyl 1 spark plug wire then point and shoot at the crank pulley. itl look like its still and you should be able to see the timing marks.

Any suggest?
 

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^ this man is an ignition beast!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
OK. I'm more interested in not to loose power at low-mid range than achieving the maximun HP at high end. So, is better to get it a little advanced or retarded?.

Sorry if I look like idiot, but my english is not good enought to understand all the things you say.

Thanks anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
OK. I'm more interested in not to loose power at low-mid range than achieving the maximun HP at high end. So, is better to get it a little advanced or retarded?.

I have a P28 non chipped (yet) ecu. I'll tune it when I finished my project, in the meanwhile I use an Apexi VAFC.

Sorry if I look like idiot, but my english is not good enought to understand all the things you say.

Thanks anyway.
 

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moving the mechanical timing changes total timing(mechanical via distributor and timing set by ecu control) you may gain some but not much when you factor in other variables. get a timing light and set to 2*advance from stock initial point if you want. but this is nothing noticeable. may sound different. theres a point where timing can effectively be set before thermal efficiency drops and reverse combustion occurs. such as the flame ignites too soon meeting max thermal pressure before the piston reaches TDC thus slowing the piston down and putting excess stress on rod and rod bearings.

when you connect the timing light up you will see 4 lines 3 together 1 apart. 1 apart from the 3 is TDC. the middle line of the 3 is stock base timing. to adjust advance move it so the pointer is showing the one line farthest from the lonesome line.

your vafc will move timing automatically when you add fuel. this is because it works by fooling the ecu thinking its in a different cell on the fuel/ignition table.

the only thing i can think of is if the idle was hopping around before you advanced it means the timing was incorrect to begin with. may it be ignition or cam timing. or vafc set incorrectly thus comes the AFR hunt. so before you advanced it could of been too far retarded, seen by rpm increasing by itself then engine falls flat on its face do to a rich combustion so rpm will drop then start the process over again.

does that make sense?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
the only thing i can think of is if the idle was hopping around before you advanced it means the timing was incorrect to begin with. may it be ignition or cam timing. or vafc set incorrectly thus comes the AFR hunt. so before you advanced it could of been too far retarded, seen by rpm increasing by itself then engine falls flat on its face do to a rich combustion so rpm will drop then start the process over again.

does that make sense?
Yes, that is what happened. I think we installed the distributor in a retarded position, so the rmp increased and decreased by itself. When we advence the distributor the rmp works fine.

Anyway, I should check it out with the timming light to ensure that now is not too far advanced.
 

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for the idle surging, check all your vacume hoses, especially around the intake manifold, i had one get knocked off when i was changing my Brake Prop valve which made my car idle weird.
 
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