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Discussion Starter #1
Will I need any special tools to adjust the valves on a D15B or D16y8? Just a box wrench, feeler gauges and screw driver right?

Thanks, this will be my first time.
 

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I don't know if it's different, but on an A6 the locknuts are to be torqued to 10ftlbs.

-Des!
My book says 14 ft. lbs. for the B7 and 20ft. lbs. for the Z6 ...but Im pretty sure somewhere in the 15-20 range would be alright. first time I did a valve adj. on my B7 5 years ago I snugged them up and they back out within 2-3 months. so I bought my digitorque and use it on everything listed in the book.
 

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Helms says you should feel a "slight drag" with your feeler gauge when you slide it through. I know. It's very subjective. But I wouldn't make it "snug".
I use two gauges, like 0.10mm and 0.15mm for intake. Adjust it so that 0.10mm goes thru it (with little drag) and 0.15 won't. Now you have ~0.12mm lash.
Sorry 'bout metric units, shouldn't be a problem.

Turn your crank to cyl.1 TDC, and you can adjust all valves of cylinder 1, intake on 2 and exhaust on 3. Turn crank one turn, and adjust all of 4, intake on 3 and exhaust on 2. No need to turn engine into four different positions, like manuals etc say.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Turn your crank to cyl.1 TDC, and you can adjust all valves of cylinder 1, intake on 2 and exhaust on 3. Turn crank one turn, and adjust all of 4, intake on 3 and exhaust on 2. No need to turn engine into four different positions, like manuals etc say.
Finally did the job tonight. Thanks for the tips!

I used the method above and I'm confident that the next time won't take as long. The engine is a little bit quieter now too. :)
 

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I dont know the exact formula but I beleive that it is a 20% reduction in torque through a 1' extension. But there are many variables in that, operating temp, the material of the extension, ect but I will try to find it in my notes from school.
 

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I found it I hope it makes sense
the formula is C=D(A/A+B)
D= Torque wrench setting
C= torque @ the end of the extension
A= length of the torque wrench
B= length of the adapter
the length should be expressed in inches.
so for example
A= 12"
B= 24"
D= 20 ft/lbs

C= 20(12/12+24)
C= 20(12/36)
C= 20(1/3)
C= 6.6 ft/ lbs
so you would have to add to the setting on the torque wrench or decrease the extension.
 

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I found it I hope it makes sense
the formula is C=D(A/A+B)
D= Torque wrench setting
C= torque @ the end of the extension
A= length of the torque wrench
B= length of the adapter
the length should be expressed in inches.
so for example
A= 12"
B= 24"
D= 20 ft/lbs

C= 20(12/12+24)
C= 20(12/36)
C= 20(1/3)
C= 6.6 ft/ lbs
so you would have to add to the setting on the torque wrench or decrease the extension.
great info :TU: !! Never heard this before, but it makes sense.
 

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My book says 14 ft. lbs. for the B7 and 20ft. lbs. for the Z6 ...but Im pretty sure somewhere in the 15-20 range would be alright. first time I did a valve adj. on my B7 5 years ago I snugged them up and they back out within 2-3 months. so I bought my digitorque and use it on everything listed in the book.
Honestly you must have misread the torque specs as im reading the Helms right now. There is a 20 but thats for N.M, as its 14 footpounds for z6 and y8 and 10 for b7
Its cool though, i dont even want to mention a few of the trq specs ive mixed up in the past..;)
 
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