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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys I am trying to set up my ride height on my new Crx coilovers but the car didnt look as I expected when I dropped it down on the garage floor.



I am under the impression the springs come with some sort of pretensioning, so I didnt touch the orange rings at all, but instead loosened the bottom gold collar and turned the body down into the tube. The front coilovers I have turned all the way in until I ran out of threads, The rears still have 1.5" of thread left before bottoming out. YET....

On the garage floor after bouncing it a few times and rolling back and forth the rear end is perfect, right close to the tire no finger gap, but the front is almost 1" away from the tire, a 2 finger gap.

I tried to lower it more by moving the orange rings down, which loosened the pretension on the spring, but didnt seem to lower the car. Then I tried moving the orange rings up, compressing the spring, but saw no difference there either.

Is this just as low as the front is going to go, or is there a trick to setup I dont know? Ive never had full bodies before, just regular coilovers.

Just seems odd since the rear can go another 2" and probably tuck the entire tire, but the front has such a big gap. All the suspension was assembled properly and torqued with a load to.
 

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1991 Honda CRX
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On my CRX coilovers the fronts are bottomed out and have a 1/2" gap between the fender and the rear is the same but are actually toward the top so they can be lowered probably 2 inches more. It seems normal but I'm not sure.

If you have almost a 1" gap with it all the way bottomed out, then you might have EG/DC coilovers. They are an inch longer than the DA/EF coilovers. You might have to get creative to lower it some more. What brand coilovers are they?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
They are Yonaka brand, they were labelled from 89-91 Crx....

Im hoping there is a way to adjust them that Im not understanding
 

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ej8
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First of all.
There are 2 rings.
The top is what the spring sits on and that adjusts the height.
Not the tension on the springs.
The second ring is called the locking ring. It stops the top ring from moving while your driving.

Next if you coil both rings all the way down to the last thread and it still doesnt get lower enough for you. Then your need to buy another set that will go lower.
Once its coil all the way down the only thing that will make it go lower is a shorter spring.
 

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First of all.
There are 2 rings.
The top is what the spring sits on and that adjusts the height.
Not the tension on the springs.
The second ring is called the locking ring. It stops the top ring from moving while your driving.

Next if you coil both rings all the way down to the last thread and it still doesnt get lower enough for you. Then your need to buy another set that will go lower.
Once its coil all the way down the only thing that will make it go lower is a shorter spring.
That style has three rings. Two directly under the which is your typical adjustment perch and locking ring. But a third one at the bottom that allows height adjustment without affecting spring preload. This one locks against the bottom bracket.

Unless I missed something and/or forgot how that style works.

Dunno.

Also, you won't have EG/DC front shock bodies without using EG/DC forks as well. The shock body diameter is smaller on EF/DA than it is on EGDC.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
First of all.
There are 2 rings.
The top is what the spring sits on and that adjusts the height.
Not the tension on the springs.
The second ring is called the locking ring. It stops the top ring from moving while your driving.
xile - cmon bud look at the pic I posted. 3 rings.

snm - Your right the orange rings come set out of the box firmly against the coil, I probably could loosen the orange rings and move them down, completely taking the preload off of the spring, but then would I possibly be putting the internal shock at stress? There probably built for a certain stroke, even though there site says 4"drop capable. Im not sure here, the fronts I need just a half inch to be smilin :)
 

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セックス大好&#
'93 240sex
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You dont wanna mess with the spring preload.

If you wanna go lower the only thing you can do is remove the locking collar for the MOUNT and thread the mount up and use the locking ring for the SPRINGS as the new locking ring for the mount.

Like so (this is on my 240, I know the suspension design is a little different.)


You can also buy shorter springs (preferably swift springs, they're the shit) and you can reset the preload and thread the mount up further.


Or some custom fab is in order
 

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Discussion Starter #9
same setup.
the very bottom ring just turns the threads.
No its not the same, and no the bottom ring doesnt turn the threads, all it does is lock. How do you have 5,000 posts but everything I see you write is wrong or illiterate

If you wanna go lower the only thing you can do is remove the locking collar for the MOUNT and thread the mount up and use the locking ring for the SPRINGS as the new locking ring for the mount.
Good thought, but that wont work for me, as the spring "body" of threads is already bottomed out in the lower mount body of threads, theres no way to make it go any lower inside

I have found talk of a lowerring FORK, which holds the bottom of the coilover to the lower control arm, which would work with the front suspension only, which happens to be all I need. Problem with that, is it was made 15 years ago, and is discontinued and wasnt very popular when produced. So near impossible to find.

I think Im screwed here, if the spring cant adjust height anymore
 

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セックス大好&#
'93 240sex
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Ahh I see. Damn Hondas lol jk.

In that picture you posted is the front coils on the right hand side and the rear on the left?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ya bud, and the rear can go a good 1.5" atleast lower, thats why i dont get how the front is maxed without even getting rid of the gap
 

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If you want just another 1/2 inch in the front, just take them apart and take one of the rings off. Since it's already bottomed out it's simply just a washer at this point. That is the free way. Besides that you would have to starting modify things to get it lower.
 

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セックス大好&#
'93 240sex
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Yeah theres not a whole lot you can do without Getting that fork then.

Like some of the others said they may have sold you the wrong front struts.
 

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ej8
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No its not the same, and no the bottom ring doesnt turn the threads, all it does is lock. How do you have 5,000 posts but everything I see you write is wrong or illiterate



Good thought, but that wont work for me, as the spring "body" of threads is already bottomed out in the lower mount body of threads, theres no way to make it go any lower inside

I have found talk of a lowerring FORK, which holds the bottom of the coilover to the lower control arm, which would work with the front suspension only, which happens to be all I need. Problem with that, is it was made 15 years ago, and is discontinued and wasnt very popular when produced. So near impossible to find.

I think Im screwed here, if the spring cant adjust height anymore
Everything I write isn't wrong.
And u have mess with these type of setups before and that's how they have always work for me.

Ones where to its 2 rings and you adjust up and down.
The other where there is 3 rings and the bottom is for higher adjusting the threads. It threads into the bottom of the shock.
But either way you don't got to listen to me.
I still say you need smaller springs if the drop isn't what you want.
 

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Classic Man
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Adjust the body as far down into the wishbone/lower mount as it will go.

Then lower the spring mount as low as it will go.


That is the lowest your coilovers will ride.

Want moar low, but you are out of adjust-ability but still have shock travel? Cut the springs.




ED/DA specific coilovers are shorter than EG/DC/EK. So if you needed to use EG front forks they sold you an EG kit and it will never go as low as a proper ED kit would.
 

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This might be a slim chance, but do you have the rear springs on the front struts?


The springs on the front should be shorter then the rear on good kits.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
ED/DA specific coilovers are shorter than EG/DC/EK. So if you needed to use EG front forks they sold you an EG kit and it will never go as low as a proper ED kit would.
I used the stock stock CRX forks, so I say its safe to assume I got crx coils
 
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