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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, first off, let me give yall a little background on my motor.

It's a D15B2 Non-Vtec, auto transmission. I got my car when it had 116K on it, now it has 123K on it, and it smokes pretty good with any revs over 4K.

Back in the summer I had some problems with it going all the way to red on the temp guage and then going back down to normal. (did this for about 45 minutes) Then when first started it would cough and stumble until you got it cleaned out, and would smoke when first started. I was told on another forum that it was the headgasket. So I changed it, and about 3K later, it's starting to do the same things again, just not as bad. Now it's ticking really loud even after adjusting the valves, and will stumble when idled for over a minute or so. It's also throwing a ton of black spooge all over the back of the hatch. It's also only getting around 24MPG where it used to get near over 33MPG. I only have a Magnaflow muffler on it cause the stock one was rotted off.

Now that you guys are caught up, we can start with what I'd like to do.

For a couple of months I've been debating whether to do a B16 or DOHC ZC swap w/ 5spd swap as well. My conclusion is

I will not be getting a motor. I need to grow up a little and stop worrying about the other ricers in town. I need my car to be reliable and maybe have a little bit more oopmh to pull out in front of traffic. So anyways, no motor. It's not going to be an option. I will be keeping the D15 with the Auto. I need something to get me through college.

Now, here is what I am thinking.

All the smoking and spooging is from the valves. (also ticks really loud, even after valve adjusting)

So I found a rebuilt head on Ebay for $200 shipped, is that a good deal?

Also, when you take the radiator cap off, you don't see any flow either.

So I think I will be replacing the water pump as well as the thermostat and radiator cap. (they are like 6 bucks)

(I just bought some headers), then run a bigger exhaust, what is big enough to let the wagon breath, but not so big that it hurts power?
I was thinking that 2.25" would be a good size.

Also:
Mista Bone wrote:
D15 nonVTEC just needs to breath. D16A6 cam, Y7/8 cam gear, D16Z6 intake, easy 15-20 whp bolt on using OEM parts. Slap on a AEM CAI and you've got 118 whp/135 chp from a 85 whp/102 chp stock rated motor.

If I did this, what kind of MPG would I be looking at? Is the D16Z6 cam the same?

I am very open to suggestions, I would like to keep it under $500 and 30+MPG.

Thanks alot!

P.S. I forgot that it has a Option Racing cold air intake with ram air port.
 

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500 bucks is kinda pushing it for a built head and all that..also i would say no to the ebay head unless you knew the guy personally...that's just me though..i think just some slight n/a mods will satisfy you for what you want at the moment..maybe header, full exhaust, fpr, intake mani...stuff like that maybe
 

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With all the rewiring needed to go MPFI, might as well just drop in a D16A6 motor.......

First off, good head on your shoulders. Your mileage issue would likely be O2 sensor has died.

To run a A6 cam in a D15B2 you REALLY need the A6 or Z6 (preferred!) intake manifold, rewiring, being auto maybe no Y7/Y8 cam gear. Install the cam 1/2 tooth advanced, more low end torque will be good with a automatic.

Esp. hauling that wagon sled around!

Might wanna check out www.hondacivicwagon.com also.

The MPFI swap alone usually nets 3-4 mpg increase on a 5 speed, I've never played with a automatic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Transzex:
I've been a member at HCW for a little while now, thanks anyways though! (thats not being scarcastic or smart-alic)

Now, I've been reading on the MPFI swap, and I'm pretty sure I could do it. It's not all that hard.

Do you know where I can get those parts for pretty cheap?

I'm thinking about going ahead and getting that head then installing the cam and such into it, and doing whatever I needed to do with it, then putting it on my car, there would be little to no downtime. (This car is a daily driver so downtime is a serious issue)

When you say 1/2 tooth advanced, do you mean with the timing belt advanced?

I'm a noob when it comes to all the technical terms, but if you can explain it to me I can do it.

90Red:
$500 bucks pushing it for a head? Not sure what you mean by that. The head would be $200 shipped, here is a link:
D15 Rebuilt Head
What does FPR stand for?


Thanks!
 

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:hyper: CARBS!!! :hyper:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
:hyper: CARBS!!! :hyper:
How hard would that be, and how much more power would I be looking at?

If I did the D16A6 cam and D16Z6 intake, how much power would I bee looking at there? How many MPG?
 

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i meant on the head, if you wanted to build one yourself it would mosre than likely be more than 500- if i end up builing mine htis summer it'll be closer to 1k for the head...kinda sucks, but you gotta do what you gotta do...what are you looking for in the car's performance?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Oh I see.

I would just like to have a little more power to get around traffic better, and to stop the smoking. So I would just like some more torque and low end.
 

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D-series Janitor
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I started in the exact same spot as you and looking back I would have just ditched the automatic and gone with a stick. Seriously.

The MPFI swap isn't difficult but you need a throttle body off a 90-91 Civic EX or a 88-92 Integra automatic. The most important part is that it is a automatic throttle body because the stick throttle linkage doesn't have the provision for the transmission kick-down or whatever that cable is.

You can tell if it is an automatic throttle arm because it has two holes and two "ditches" (for lack of a better term). One is for the "pin" on the end of the throttle cable and the other hole for the "pin" on the end of the trans cable.

Secondly, The car decreased MPG with the MPFI swap. I consistently got 35-36 with an ebay short ram, ebay header, high-flow cat, generic 40 series flowmaster, a6 cam with y8 cam gear and dropped down to 32-33. However, the car pulls much more above 4000 than it ever did with the DPFI. So that is up to you.

I did not dyno the car with DPFI, but it ran a disappointing 11.3 @ 63 in the 1/8 with everything minus the MPFI swap and a6 cam (full interior).

After the MPFI swap and a6 cam, it ran pig rich and made 95 whp and 85ft-lbs. I now have a generic ebay adjustable fuel pressure regulator as the black wet soot is bascially just unburnt fuel. I started at 50# and now I am at 40#.

So where I am at now is a ported PM9 head, milled .030" with a y8 headgasket (.011 less compressed than a a6/b2), and a delta 260 cam with an adjustable cam gear. With the TPS being completely way off (reads 2.9v closed and 3.7 open) it made 106whp and 88ft-lbs. I would imagine theres a little left in it with the new TPS and throwing a b16a throttle body on it.

So long story short, pm me if you need any details.
I have a a6 cam and y8 cam gear I just pulled out of the motor and looks in great shape. I was also going to port the old head I have and throw new valve stem seals in it and get a valve job, so if you are interested in that let me know too :D
 

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All the smoking and spooging is from the valves. (also ticks really loud, even after valve adjusting)
Not a knock on you at all. But I have personaly quieted down many cars that had misadjusted valves, sometimes even cases where they were adjusted by someone else.

I have read a few times on this board where someone adjusts the valves tighter and tighter thinking it will quiet the ticking. Often times after a cam install.

loose valves do not make noise, uneven valves do. if all valves are singing along in rhythm you wont hear em, its when there "off key" that you hear the audible ticking.

I personaly use a dial indicator to set my valve lash. Its alot more work but the ultimate when it comes to accuracy.

A feeler gauge leaves alot more room for error, As its real easy to push the valve down forcing a feeler gauge int he gap. I have seen many a newb tech come in and think they can ajust valves only to have it end up in my stall, it really does take some practice to get the right "feel" for it. I've gotten quite good adjusting valves with feeler gauges over the years but since i'm no longer a line tech and speed isnt an issue, I prefer a dial indicator.
 
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